New Landy new life

Very cool name. Alascan tribe not?

Hiking with my two russles

oops

I have a small plastic bag with some white powder ..... Sorry, couldn't resist

My times over all races are still in tact. Racetech don't time the Karkloof but the local timing company used my chip data to capture my time. Go figure

Strange thing I did note on raceteck website that I have two timing chips registered on my name but I only have the one. Must have been the ROAG guys in KZN

Thanks chaps - will take the frame to Mark at Crown and see if all my money spent there will warrant a favour

My BB bearings are shot - when I removed the side with the right hand thread (normal thread) I really battled and the thread picked up a little and needs to be tapped out before fitting a new unit. Are these taps readily available or do I just get a thread file? Looks like a fine thread but not sure yet if they are metric or possibly UNF or similar.

I have also a 1000 lumin handlebar light and a 200 lumin spotlight type light on my helmet which is ideal for just checking a bit ahead especially while cornering.

I was wondering how often I should be charging my batteries to get the most of them. My system has no indicator and I usually ride for about 2 to 3 hours twice a week. I have a 5200mAh - 4 cell ES Li-Ion battery pack attached to 1000 lumins light. ​Appreciate some opinions on how best to charge for long life.

I also had a lot of trouble recently getting rid of air on my Juicy 3, especially the rear brakes. Found that you need to use the procedure in the manual rather than the video on the SRAM website if that helps at all. Lots of tapping on the housings and I even loosened the caliper housing from the frame and held the bleed hole upright while sucking with the syringe to remove all small bubbles.

Just picked up my board - MD again for the third year in a row I though I would have dropped a few seedings as every time I start in MD I get overtaken by the whole field it feels. Maybe they just feel sorry for me but I will start at the back this time and hope at least to overtake one person.

Thanks, well worth the tom

Thanks to Droo, this little candle has been added to my handlebars and I went to the blockhouse just now and its like daylight but not overly bright and no shadows - downhill speed has increased tremendously - highly recommend this brand http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee420/Landy1973/IMG-20140808-00391_zps475ebf34.jpg

That is based on you climbing for the full race no?

k for K@K

Has the confirmation of entry e-mail been sent yet? I bought an entry but seller has not yet given me the transfer letter as he is waiting confirmation e-mail with seeding etc?

I got warm in a nice shower afterwards

Was a great race, but very cold. I did the 50 and only got rained on during the last 10 km but the new route was fantastic. There were some nice climbs and even a pretty technical climb and decent downhill. Mostly on jeep track but considering conditions a good idea. There was quite a strong river at one point where the farmers had placed 3 tractors and tied two ropes between the tractors, one at waist level and one at shoulder height so we could hang on for dear life while those of us lighter competitors had to hang on to keep from doing white water rafting, sonder the raft! I enjoyed the route.

Turns out it was air after all. This time I loosened the calliper from the frame and when it's the turn to bleed the rear calliper, I just held the bleed port level with the ground by turning the calliper on its side and had my son tap on the housing while I sucked out the bubbles. Breaks as hard as new now and lasted the whole of the Woolsley race today with no fade whatsoever – really chuffed now. Thanks for the advice guys.

The frame is 26 inch. Let me try the air bleed for the fourth time. I have tried with the bike at all different angles in the bike stand to try get the air out of the callipers. Also screwed the lever pushrod all the way out (as per manual) and tried with callipers completely apart and also with them closer together to get more fluid in the system. The tapping never raised any bubbles, but I sucked many times on the syringes on both ends until I thought there were no more. Bloody difficult job this is! Can’t see how the front breaks went like a treat but the rear are terrorising me.

7K bike so just want a quick fix until my upgrade to something better

Hi Guys I recently replace front and rear calliper seals and the front system works fine no issues. The rear however has developed terrible fade after a few downhill’s where the lever eventually bottoms out and no pressure. I tried bleeding them again and then the break works again for 10 minutes riding and then the lever starts to bottom out again. Sometimes if I leave the breaks for a while and pump the lever again I get breaks again for a short time. Is this air or possibly failed Lever Seals? I had similar experience years back with a vehicle where the master cylinder seals were damaged when bleeding new seals installed in the wheel callipers, the old seals were not used to full travel while bleeding the breaks and had to be replaced in the master cylinder – hope that makes sense. Any advise welcome.

I looked on my Endomondo route last year and saw I did 57 km. I think I remember that there was a mix up between the long and short route and I ended up getting sent the wrong way by the Marshalls. I think the 50 will be the route for me this year.

I had a college of mine with same problems, caused by many years at Sea in a fishing trawler causing a lot of load on the head of the femur. He swears by the repair which was a ceramic cup and titanium head. Done by local ortho group down here - I guess that this is very common so anyone in the country should be good at the repair by now - good luck