GrahamS2

My 110 came in under that. And I didn't skimp on reliable parts.

Finally received mine yesterday eve and they are exceptional quality grips. The bar plugs are the absolute dogs bollocks! I can't wait to fit them and ride.

I'm not sure how else to put it, their service is just sloppy. Don't let them tarnish the otherwise strong brand you guys are building!

I must be honest, dealing with Dawnwing on this transaction has been a major let down for me. Especially after the slick luvhandles website, decent payment processing, etc.

I do enduros and fall and smack trees and stuff. Used clamp on's but now using ESI's - never been an issue whatsoever. Will report back on the Luv's when my order arrives.

Yeah, new ESI pricing is mildly mental. R450 for a pair

Could be that you're not letting the chain dry properly before applying lube. Also make sure you rinse the degreaser off thoroughly. I apply it, take it for a short ride, leave overnight, then wipe off the excess. Squirt lasts me 100km between applications, on average.

Thanks a mil for the explanation. That sounds like a great way to build them. I think I'll drop Peter an email this morning.

Would you mind explaining how the no inner spoke hole concept works? How do you get the nipples in? Those are seriously nice looking rims. What was the lead time on getting them landed?

Can you not use a center punch or a metal chisel to dislodge it down, before pulling it out?

Easiest way is a release agent (Q20) to soak in for as long as possible, then apply some pressure from the top - put the BB on a block of wood, use a mallet to hit the top of the seatpost and break the frame/post bond. You need a sudden force to break the bond. Once the bond is broken, some wrestling usually gets the post out. Steel/alu bond can be pretty darn strong though!

That would give him an IELTS equivalent score of 5 - all you need is a letter from your school or university stating that you were educated in English. But if you need to claim the points for having superior English (IELTS score of 8 and above), you'll need to write IELTS.

Just saw that now, thanks. Planning to upgrade my 1ten to a stage in the next month or so

What fork did you use?

Why not? Taiwanese companies make a similar product at a lower price. It's an obvious comparison to make. The South wheels do look very decent, but in that price bracket they go up against the likes of Nox Composites, etc. so there's lots of shopping around to do.

They very nearly went bust in the mid-90's, and they weren't really much of a player until Merida bought into them in '01 and the marketing started. The mere fact that Pyga (an incredibly young company) are being compared to the likes of Specialized (albeit, locally) tells me that Pat & co. are very much on the right track. They have a great range of bikes now, and are starting to release some brilliant parts (specifically the latest hubs and wheels). I see it growing into something worthwhile if they plot their entry into the international markets well.

We've also had many US born entrepreneurs starting brands for bikes made in Taiwan before... Specialized is one of them.

It's also the fastest striking snake on earth and can strike objects 3 times its body length away. They may be lazy, but they are damned dangerous!

LOL. Where I live, the pythons staple diet is stray cat (with the occasional dog included). Seriously!

This bike makes me want to do something silly with my wallet. But I'll miss my oneten29 too much!

Colour looks good! WRT anodizing alloy frames, just be aware that the resultant surface hardening has been linked to accelerated fatigue strength reduction, particularly in machined parts. Did they use a chromatic or sulfuric anodizing?

Easy tiger, it's a Pyga

I haven't drilled yet. I need to get a longer cable and housing first. I think there's room to run the cable between the frame and the linkage, otherwise under the BB up the back. I'll look at the options before I drill, because I may just decide to leave it routed like it is - doesn't really bother me too much.

Here's the pic they sent. I think you're correct, drill mid-way between the 2 lines. I have a packet of rubber grommets I got from an electrical wholesaler - pretty common. I plan to use a small plastic wedge to seat one into the frame, and then some lube to help the cable housing get through http://i57.tinypic.com/9kxvns.jpg

I'm going to make up some clamps to accommodate 3 cables on the down tube, or just cable tie it to one of the existing cables there. Will then run the dropper cable off the side, under the BB, and up into the new hole.