vanniri

If it is R90k new, second hand is c.R45k. Cracked frame (not repaired) = zero for frame + parts second hand value (risk of repair for buyer). Repaired cracked frame = cost of repair + maybe 10% + parts second hand value Repaired cracked frame (incl. warranty) = twice value of repair, say R12k + parts second hand value I would expect at least a 25% discount on a repaired cracked frame with warranty. Using the R45k example above, say R33k to start negotiations.

Owned two of the cheaper ones - unable to recall the brand name. Reasons for moving on: too big for back pocket and lost the frame brackets for both + does not come with an extention/flexible connector pipe thus created havoc with the presta valves + inability to inflate a road tyre to even closely riding pressure + they did not fit my snazzy bike & kit 🤫 Replaced it with a Specialised one for R1k, unsure about the model name... The good: small + inflates to within a inch of road riding tyre pressure+ includes a flexible connector pipe + I still have the frame bracket + it looks snazzy. The bad: be prepared for 150 or more strokes for road tyres + connector screws in resulting in the presta core becoming undone if not properly secured in the first place. The latter is a minor issue if you fasten these properly at home.

Franschhoek all around is fine. Zero issues.

I do all of the above. Mostly since I am clueless and brake when I shouldn't, don't break when I need to and end up making my own (unintended) line, getting stuck in puddles, etc. At least I don't plow through muddy trails since I dislike any mud on my bike, instead I push my bike and swear at the rain gods.

https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-trails/usfs-releases-new-emtb-ruling-requiring-reclassification-of-non-motorized-trails-to-motorized-for-access/ A USA perspective. The comments section is most interesting! Since it is Friday, I might add I really, really dislike Dirt bikes on the trails (any trails) and motor bikes on the road (in particular the W/Cape passes).

Yes, I use to own a Cube bike with the Alfine hub. It also came with a carbon belt drive. Absolutely zero issues. Amazingly smooth and the belt drive was something made in heaven (coming from a normal chain). I bought it in the Netherlands, sold it to a local mate here in W/Cape and sometimes sees it in Stellenbosch being use by its current owner. Its going on four years and the current owner confirmed my view above. I might also add the bike was fitted with Alfine disc brakes and levers - also excellent in use with zero issues. I will recommend 100% Note: the maintenance (oil change) requirements are something to keep in mind. Easy and infrequent job, most difficult is getting hold of the required oil grade in SA.

Reducing the weight of the product whilst keeping the packaging and price the same is not the sole domain of Biogen. In the US, with producer price inflation at a high, this practise is currently a hot topic. Have you ever notice how the chocolate easter eggs shrunk over time?

Exactly, they grip like mad!

At the trail head - sat map with color overlay and legend on color is my preference. Tips - a well marked "you are here" is always appreciated & preferably the map orientation should be similar to the trails, i.e. left of the map is to your left as you face the map. On the trail - clear markings similar color coded to map. Tips - logical/universal colors, i.e. green is easy and black is for the insane & chicken run signs can be very useful for newbies to first checkout the level of insanity required. Not per se included in the OP question but to consider at trail head map - departure times for individuals looking for groups, say on the hour every hour. As such a newbie can then wait to see if anyone is willing to join a group ride.

The part the OP is referring to is the microspline spacer found on the Simano 12-speed freehub body. Initially Shimano recommended not greasing the part the spacer sits on - see page 14 of the attached (marked as part G). This was updated to a premium grease (Y04110000) to be applied - see pages 17 & 18. If you're LBS is not aware of this or does not have the special grease find a new LBS https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/MAHB001/DM-MAHB001-09-ENG.pdf

A good hospital plan is also adviseable.

Thanks, done and dusted

Newbie question: I am interested in the regional pass for 2022 Do I first have to be a club member (previously called Wannabees) before I can purchase the pass? I am unable to register on the site and you are required to login before you can purchase the pass.

I lived in five countries, the worst places for bike theft where: NL - whilst "parked", irrespective of lock Brasil - politely being asked for your bike with some weapon in hand. Bike heists - where all bikes at an event is taken is not uncommon. I raced in more than one XC where police with automatic assult rifles gaurded the track. SA - similar to Brasil, but with the added shoving you from the bike. Macedonia/Kosovo/Eastern Europe - unheard of, in particular Slovenia Personally haven't experience any bike theft, and the only country I've had stuff stolen was SA and NL.

In order of urgency: Skill Lungs Legs Time Money Any help would be greatly appreciated

Google "over fork" + your bike brand / model You might just be lucky and someone else have done it and shared the experienced

Really says it all: "a system that does not favour people on bikes and generally provides far too much room for police and other prosecutors to endorse the marginalisation of cyclists and other vulnerable road users through their historic inaction.” Luckily the above attitude is much less prevalent in countries where the general population had significant exposure to be either cyclist or other road users, for e.g. the Dutch.

No idea. Small and probably light since it got sucked very quickly.

I solved this successfully, the solution might come in handy for a fellow cyclist. My S/Cruz Reserve rim (carbon) had something rolling inside the rim, clearly audible when rotating the wheel, not so much during riding. Rim holds air, runs true and no issues other than the rattle. Slightly less than two yrs old. Trail riding only. I removed the wheel, tyre and valve stem. A small little something could be spotted rolling past the valve hole. Unable to identify the little something and no way of removing it by shaking or using a small set of pliers. Considered inserting some expansion foam, but really last option. Decided to call for backup from the vacuum cleaner. Sucked the little sucker from the rim tape side, plugging the top hole with my finger and using an appropriate nozzle adapter for the job. Worked like a bomb. In the interest of full disclosure - found the option via Google.???? Some fine print: I am ashamed to say the solution came from a roadie. ????

Cycling in general is a participation sport, moreso for marathon than XCO (insofar mtb), Rampage events (all) are viewers sports. By its very nature participation sports promotes/sells products, whilst viewer sports promotes/sells experiences. How many of the CE live stream viewers ride mtb vs. Rampage viewers actually physically getting into on-screen like action?

You have a plastic surgeon on like speed dail? I even fiddle my thumbs when having to complete "name and contact details of your house doctor?" question.

Pointing the right direction already, watch out it will go down the trail and leave you behind with the smart phone as company!

My first proper mtb was a steel Kona - Kilaua (no front suspension, manage to retro-fit a Bomber later). First love...

Clairvoyant