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Flowta

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Everything posted by Flowta

  1. Deon, how often were the newsletters sent out before the fire? I received 2 in Feb (13th & 20th) but before that the last was in September.
  2. I thought so, keep an eye on them
  3. Been enjoying my Vigilante on the front. Have the Beeline on the back, which rolls quite nicely, though I have cut the sidewall once
  4. Are the frames of those glasses wood? If so it may be the sort a attraction my staffy Congo has towards ice-cream sticks. They get chewed to splinters
  5. That might hamper his style. Then again looking at his face, maybe not
  6. You're kidding?
  7. Thanks for the complement. I actually have a Fujifilm HS10, which is a great bridge camera. BUT the sensor in it is the same size as my phones. Have spotted a few second hand bodies (Canon and Nikon) and have some old lenses from my old Film SLR
  8. #Nofilters straight as it comes from the phone
  9. Slightly cheating again. Taken straight with phone, but changed colour to sepia and slight vignette filter.
  10. Taken with my Z3 Compact Admittedly I cheated, because I used a DOF adapter (just finished cobbling it together)
  11. My condolences
  12. So I've been building a DOF (Depth of field) adapter as a bit of a project. Of course the kids query willing subjects to test it out. Here are Congo, Ming and Hannah.
  13. Shame man, not good news
  14. I typically stick to SDG Belair or WTB Pure saddles.
  15. Which bar and stem? and why not?
  16. Agreed!!!
  17. Also Collies at the back? Must have been doing laps to round up the rest
  18. Sounds like the chainring or the mounting of the chainring is slightly out. From Sheldon Brown (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension) Centering Chainwheelshttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/oldeng24/t.gifhe chain tension on a fixed gear is quite critical, and is regulated by moving the rear axle back and forth in the forkends. If the chain is too tight, the drivetrain will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, which is quite dangerous on a fixed gear. Set the rear axle so that the chain pulls taut at the tightest part of the cranks' rotation. One at a time, loosen up each of the stack bolts, and tighten it back just finger tight. Spin the crank slowly and watch for the chain to get to its tightest point. Strike the taut chain lightly with a convenient tool to make the chain ring move a bit on its spider. Then rotate the crank some more, finding the new tightest spot, and repeat as necessary. This takes a little bit of your hands' learning how hard to hit the chain, and how loose to set the stack bolts, but it is really quite easy to learn. Tighten up the stack bolts a bit and re-check. Tighten the stack bolts in a regular pattern, like the lug nuts on a car wheel. My standard pattern is to start by tightening the bolt opposite the crank, then move clockwise 2 bolts (144 degrees), tighten that one, clockwise 2 more, and so on. Never tighten two neighboring bolts in a row. You may prefer to go counterclockwise, but try to get in the habit of always starting at the same place and always going the same way. This reduces the chances of accidentally missing a bolt. Once you have the chainrings centered and secured, adjust the position of the rear axle to make the chain as nearly tight as possible without binding. Notice how freely the drive train turns when the chain is too loose. That is how freely it should turn when you are done, but with as little chain droop as possible. Believe it or not Biopace works because the number of teeth in contact with the chain remains the same. Once again check what Sheldon has to say http://sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html Not 100% sure about Q-rings but I think it's the same.
  19. Don't know if dreamy, but it is mine
  20. It's a steel frame Azonic Steelhead. Got the inspiration from you.
  21. Lol Though, a belt drive may be a mod I'll do in the future
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