quintonb

I built up an old Hansom that has 7-Speed on it, very difficult to come by a 7 Speed Cassette. So I bought a 10 Speed Tiagra 12-25 Cassette and knocked the rivets out of it and used the separate blades to make up 7-Speed ratios of my choice. I just used the 7-Speed spacers with the New Tiagra blades.

I think you may have a few more issues that will come into play with an old steel road frame. I would think your head tube angle will probably be to steep and it will make the bike more difficult to control (too twitchy). I would say its best to get the correct frame in order to fully enjoy the CX experience.

C, always C... its the perfect reason to buy another bike.

How easy is it to do this type of paint job?

To me it looks like the frame has been repainted, I may be wrong. Parts are not too hard to come buy, just expensive. eBay has loads of old components, at a price though. Do some more research on the frame, colour scheme etc... That's a good start point.

Very nice bike. The 105 equipment won't be worth very much. The greatest value is in the frame. Now that you have an accurate dating and an email from the factory, you have something of value. It would be nice to know what tubing it's made from, eg. Columbus SL, SLX, etc. I would say around R1000 to R2000 for the frame. If you intend in restoring it, you should build it with the correct equipment. Chances are in the early '80's it would have had Campag on and not Shimano with Sti levers...

Copper slip is the best for something like that. I live in Durban and ride an aluminium cannondale with an aluminium seatpost, I only ever use copper slip. It doesn't go "waxy" Like grease does. Best to use it on all screws,bolts, pedals, etc. That way you will never have an issue with a corroded thread. I think the compound you are talking about is what shops use on carbon bikes. It's fairly thin and gritty, the "grit" stops the carbon from slipping and creaking. That probably won't work the best for your problem and will cost quite a bit more.

Hi Tyrone did make decals for me just like the ones you have. My problem is living in durban. The sea air corrodes aluminium if it's not anodized. I have managed to find a guy in joburg who says he can anodize and keep the shine. I will send a sample up and see how it goes. If he can then I will apply decal after anodizing and clear coat over it all.

Holy C**P Morph... I think I have just had an accident at my desk...

Too much history for me on this bike. I got my Natal colours on her in '92, so I had to take her back to original. The biopace is actually nice. I'm running a 53/42 and a 12-25 on the rear(7 speed). When we raced back in the day we normally took the biopace off. As school boys we raced restricted gearing and at high cadence the chain used to "whip" a lot. We used to replace with standard round rings. The difference isn't extremely noticeable, but I do feel happier on the hansom than I do on my cannondale.

Thanks. The rolls is new, I bought it from total cycling online. I have had crank transfers made. The hassle with living in durban is oxidisation of aluminium. I initially had the transfer on and cleaecoated the crank arm. But didn't last long. So have removed and polished. I need to find someone who can anodize but keep a nice shine... Haven't found anyone as yet. I have CMM probed the crank profile and may CNC Mill the wording into the crank. Just need some time at work on the machines...

Yeah that's correct, Malcolm, Nic White.... They rode for AIG and they rode the white/pink/blue bikes.. That takes things back a few years...

So I have completed my 1989 Hansom. I have owned this bike from new. Decided to rebuild it about a year ago. It came out with the "Blue" anodized 105 Groupset. The wheels are Wolber TX Profile rims built onto 105 Hub with Wheelsmith Spokes. White Rolls Saddle, Cinelli Criterium Bars, Stronglight Headset. The cranks were in bad shape so I polished them. Not an original finish, but I think it looks ok. It has been repainted, but I have kept the original Decals, My painter managed to tape up and cut around the original Decals. Colour is also original. The bike was bought from Dave Wiseman Cycles in Durban.

Now that is a Dream garage right there.... Beautiful.

Agreed, these aren't considered classics. But still great bikes non the less.

Those were/are great bikes. My brother still has his one (same as red one). From a value point of view not as much as classic/vintage Italian steel. A nice bit of history as this is where Giant started dabbling in carbon, and we all know how that story goes... Largest bike manufacturer in the world. Price wise I would probably say around R4000. But let's see what the others say. Personally I would say they would be better to keep than sell, they really good quality bikes that have such a nice ride.

It's not the 2.5mm linear measurement that makes the difference, it's the circumference that does. The leg has to travel a shorter distance in 1 revolution which helps at high cadence. That's why track riders prefer 165 or 170 cranks, easier to accelerate and helps when you start spinning out in the fixed gear.

With Quill stem too... I like

Interesting topic. I am 1.87m tall with an inseam of 91cm, I have been riding 175 cranks on my road bikes for a good 20 years. I rebuilt my 1989 Hansom with its original components, the cranks are 172.5 and I love riding them. I am not a power rider, I prefer riding at slightly higher cadence and the 172.5 length is far more comfortable to turn. Been thinking of changing my current road bike set up.

Then give a hammer and a pin punch a try. Best to take the crank off and work on your work bench. Try and get something firm and stable under the crank and give the back side of the pedal thread a few solid blows. It may just be enough to loosen the threads. Chances are you will probably do some kind of damage to the actual crank surface, but either way you look at it that is probably inevitable.

Probably the best option is a Pneumatic impact wrench from the back of the pedal axle using an Allen Key Socket. The corroded threads need to be "Shocked" in order for them to come loose. Another option is to use a steel round-bar and hit the back side of the pedal over the Hex with a hammer. The problem is Aluminium and steel don't go that well together in terms of corrosion. If and when you do get the pedal off use Copper Slip on all the threads, this will ensure that the aluminium from the crank wont corrode and around the Steel pedal threads. Always use copper slip on any threads on a bicycle, especially if you live along coastal areas like I do.

How's that old saying go "Risk vs Reward"... For me personally risk is too high, but that's just me.

I think most of us have done this at some stage or another. Used to do it loads when I was a school boy until a guy we used to race with, Warren Reed (If memory serves me right), hit the back of a truck and opened the top of his head like a lid. He survived thankfully, but I stopped doing that. Its a rush, but extremely dangerous as the truck driver probably didn't even know you were there.

I would love to join you on this leg, but we on holiday. Will you be riding the Tour Durban on the Monday?

Only 1 bike for a guy your size and height. CANNONDALE CAAD 10