quintonb

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/142471-safety-of-cyclists-in-jeopardy-in-sa/page__hl__safety Just read this article the other day and one could preserve it as a bit of a marketing ploy. Could be intentional or not, but it created the perception. The hub is a crazy place as I have learned over the few years I have been part of it. I guess we can agree that we don't always agree with each other, and that's not always a bad thing.

Maybe his approach wasn't the best, I will give you that. But a lot of people seem to be targeting his product and that's not necessarily fair. Take him up on his marketing strategy by all means. Just seems a lot of guys are knocking the product when it should be the way he went about it. I see a lot of people "marketing" here on the hub. Kinda feel this guy had a "RAW" deal

Amazing at how this poor guy is getting nailed from all directions when all he is doing is selling a natural product that works. Yet we are happy to buy into the "Sport Nutrition" Industry hype, why don't we give them half the hassles this poor dude is getting. His product is natural and good for you, unlike most of the other stuff that's sold at a lot more. I say good luck and I hope you succeed.

Agreed, I have bought some stuff from him. A lot of what he has is NOS or VGC.

Think you referring to Glen. He doesn't really restore bikes, he finds really good condition bikes and builds them up. I have PM'd you his Cell no.

Just finished this on Monday night, took about 2 hrs. I use the water paper to get all the scratches out, the Brasso is slightly abrasive, almost like rubbing compound a panel shop would use. This takes out the very fine scratches left over. And lastly Autosol to give it a high shine. To avoid oxidization make sure the frame stays dry, sweat is no. 1 cause. So clean the parts with a moist cloth after every ride. The correct way would be to Naturally Anodize the parts, but this is not practical for the frame you have.

Don't spray plastidip or anything else on the frame. Take your time and be patient, restoring a frame/bike is a labour of love. More of us wouldn't be able to get our money back on our restoration projects, we do it because we love bikes. If the areas are dull you probably haven't sanded enough or you may have to revert back to a rougher paper and then work your way back down to the finer ones. I usually go down to 2000 grit, then use Brasso or Silvo and the Autosol metal polish for the final shine. The other thing to take into consideration now that you have "Raw" aluminium you increase the chances of oxidization. Always keep a check and make sure you avoid that. Fortunately you live inland so the risk is reduced.

If I remember correctly they were entry level bikes, not sure if you remember the "sprinter" bikes from the late '80's. It's been a while but I'm pretty sure they were on par with those kind of bikes. Then again, I may be very wrong. ☺

I say keep it original. To be honest, probably not worth huge amounts of money. Keep it and enjoy what it is and what it represented back in the day. These bikes are what SA racing was made from. Its Our little bit of history. If you want a single speed, buy a track bike and use it for that. I say keep the road bike as a road bike.

http://www.raydobbins.com/misc/Colnago_Catalog/colnago_catalog.htm Some interesting reading.

Geez, they still making some incredibly sexy bikes. Great link, Thanks

If it has fluted tubes it won't be a super. If you can post a picture showing the tube flutes. Also the original masters came with curved forks. I have a 86 master and it has a curved for. I also have the straight fork. But it originally came with a curved one. If the tubes are fluted it's either a Master or a Spiral Conic.

It's just not the same though. IMO the thing that made this bike an icon was that any kid who rode it nearly killed themselves. We all have at least 1 story related to this bike. Unfortunately kids now days don't ride bikes like our generation did. Reckon they should have tried to keep it more original instead of retro equipping it. Brings back so many scary memories... ☺

Could also be a Kinesis fork, they made one that looked similar. A few closer pictures would be nice.

I think you right. You know what forks they do look like, Cannondale did an aluminium fork called a SUB 1 back in the late 80's, early 90's. Will try get a picture of one...

Aluminium Lugged forks... Scary stuff Also just a side note, those frames never got painted, they are Anodized. So be careful if you going to water paper the raw alu. May be wise to do a bit of research before climbing into the frame. Nice ride by the way.

A general rule of thumb is if you get pain behind the knees, may be an indication that your saddle is too high. Pain infront of the knee saddle too low. May be worth while making sure that's all perfect. Good luck resolving the problem, hope you get it sorted soon.

Yip that's a Kirk, magnesium alloyed frame if memory serves me right. I stand to be corrected but I think they were investment cast, or something along those lines. Had loads of frames crack and break. Nice bit of history.

I can't wait for her to be completed... I will post pictures once done. I love bicycles and I love them in as original state as possible, even if it means restoring to original...

I would have to disagree with you Rudi-h. For a guy the height and presumably the weight of "EnduroOtto" not all frames are equal. He would more than likely ride around 60cm upwards, that is in old term conventional geometry talk. A "Compact" style frame would more than likely not work too well for a guy his height. A good, strong, solidly built frame is what a guy his size needs. That and very good, well built wheels. I am 1.87M tall and weigh in around the 90kg mark, I have been through a few aluminuim frames and Cannondale is the only 1 that has stood up. I am currently on a 14 year old CAD 3 with Ultegra 10 speed. I also have a few "old school" steel frames and IMO they will hold up the best, but weight will be an issue. IMHO the OP needs a strong frame and good wheels. and possibly Shimano 105 if he can afford. And I agree, go get yourself measured up, its not only height and inseam that will tell you the correct frame size.

This is the type of thing you should be looking for. A little more than you wanted to spend and obviously the wrong size... But will get you an idea. https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/97033-cannondale-caad-10/

1 word.... CANNONDALE For a guy your height, I also presume you not a 65kg mountain goat (No disrespect intended), Cannondale CAAD 10 or even the CAAD 8. CAAD 5 would also do the trick, but not always easy to come by. Depending on your inseam, you may bet away with a 60cm in a Cannodale. I agree with Rouxtjie try get a bike with 105 or better.