Plentipotential

Chain and cluster get removed and washed in parafin, bike gets washed with car soap, hot water and a sponge/brush, spray off with hose! I lube the chain regularly, squirt for dry, motorex for wet. Wheels are DT Swiss 370 hubs.

Thanks for the replies so far. Chains I replace with a mid range shimano brand, one just below xt I think, often, this has saved the cassette and front rings. I use the 13" ruler method and get about a 1000km's out of a chain. Try and avoid mud like the plague and remove the chain to wash it once a week. Wheel bearings and free hub take the most beating, not sure why. I remove and clean once a month. Fork I now service myself after a JB course. BB did last the full 8000 km's.

Perhaps you could be so kind as to give a constructive awnser to a constructive question instead of making assumptions about the way I treat my equipment. Either that or stay in the general slagging threads to keep your post counts in the forum whore totals. Thanks for your consideration.

2008 Giant Anthem by the way, all XT stuff. The only components that do not give sh*te are the Giant bit's.

Over the last 14 months I have spent a shed load of cash, but more importantly time keeping my bike on the road. 8000 km's and I have worn out 2 sets of wheel bearings in each wheel, rear shock service (blown seals), front fork service x 3, 2 rear gear cables, 1 freehub, large front ring (R1200.00) 1 rear cassette, 3 head set bearings, 1 BB and countless chains, tyres and brake pads. I presume I'm hard on the components, the bike shop guys just shake their heads at me while the owner rubs her hands in delight. Does the indestructable bike exist? I'm almost reluctant to go out riding as the frequency of maintainance needed increases as the bike ages!Plentipotential2009-12-02 06:44:16

What is'nt expensive in this cycling game. It's basicaly a rip off industry! R600.00 for a bicycle tyre, R1200.00 for a tyre for my bakkie? FFS Yeah I know, all the R & D bullsh*t, what? they just stick rubber together to make car tyres and hope like hell they work, I think not. The Maxxis tyres have a reputation for delaminating, Pro Bike will replace them. Why should you have to ask them to replace a tyre? These tyres should have been taken off the market long ago, instead Pro Bike replace the defective tyre and you hope like hell your tyre does not fall apart on day 2 of a R 7000.00 entry fee stage race!

Someone here might know what is causing this. Giant Anthem, shock locked on a flat smooth garage floor. Lift the bike slightly by the saddle and there is an audible "clunk" which you can feel as well. Sounds and feels like it is the suspension somewhere, all fasteners are tight and has started for no reason, i.e. well after any work was done on the bike. Anyone?

If you do not need alot phone chad 011 four seven 7 07eight 4. He is in Albertskroon, sure he will be able to help you for a once off!

Exactly, thats why you have it on the left that way you can get into the right gear before you get to the other side while still having the option to use the rear brake. Did I mention the rear cassette?

Coming to the bottom of a decline you still need to be on the brakes, left hand for the rear brake, and getting ready to shift gears for the incline, right hand for rear cassette, on my bike anyway. Thought it was obvious?

Not sure on the price, sorry. Phone around first. You might only need a new bearing ass. I doubt that it is the cage and rollers, try some oil/grease mixture on the pawls. If they run dry against the teeth they will make a racket. Some people like a noisy freehub, I prefer it quiet myself. Also once on I put some grease on the plate that goes against the body from the outside to hopefull keep water out.

That plastic cage and rollers is not making the noise. All that does is guide/hold the freehub body at the hub end, the other end is supported by a bearing. You might find that the noise is comming from the pawls or the bearings inside the freehub. Might need a new one. In future, open the freehub by removing the nut and pull the body off taking care not to loose any of the rollers and clean with parafin. Spray some wd40 into the pawls and then add a mixture of grease and oil and reassemble. Take care to make sure that the seal inside the body is flat against the back of the body. Grease only is too thick and will hold the pawls down a bit so they will end up slipping against the teeth on the body and then you will need a new one. Over time a lot of gunk gets in there and by the time the bike shop gets it it's too late to save it. Not a great explanation I know but hopefully you understand what I am trying to say.

What would you rate as the best money spent on cycling. For me it would have to be Assos shorts and professional bike setup by Arron Brown.

1.95 m 92 kg's. Giant Anthem 1 stock. 6000 km's and going strong.

Bolt Fast 021 505 1000. Standard pitch for M6 but the left hand thread might need to be ordered so phone first. They are in Epping.

In order to save weight you need to spend money, every gram will cost you about R10.00. So 1kg will set you back R10 000.00. For the same strength. Perhaps you could spend less time in the kitchen and more time in the toilet? Much cheaper. Everyone wants cheap, light and strong. Pick any two, but only two.Plentipotential2009-09-03 08:17:22

A simple solution for dealing with idiot car drivers. 1. After being sideswiped approach from the rear at speed while car is waiting at robot. 2. Uncleat shoe. 3. Remove side mirror with shoe. 4. Lane split the traffic and get going at speed. Easy enough for me on a MTB I just take to the nearest park/pavement/open space. 5. The more expensive the car the greater the satisfaction. Works well enough when used by motorcyclists as well. And your excuse "Sorry about that, I never saw you".Plentipotential2009-09-02 02:27:58

If you are talking about the inside of your free hub, grease will kill it. The grease is too thick and will prevent the pawls from standing upright to catch the hub completly and will damage the teeth. Ask me how I know For the hub I now mix grease and motor oil into a thin paste and apply a thin coat to the pawls. After cleaning I also spray wd40 into the pawls to make sure there is no water in there. I have a DT Swiss hub which has a small bearing cage with 12 very small rollers in the cage, do not loose these if you have the same.

. Plentipotential2009-08-19 01:01:43

Thanks for the replies. Some clarity, no broken spokes, not too badly out and not my usual shop, but had to go there to get some Assos as my usual LBS does not stock them. Usual shop said I should bring the wheel in and get the spokes tightened up. However the other shop made a good point about revolutions and tension and so on so I thought it worth asking the question as I am a bit inexperienced in these matters. Training for the Epic and would not like to be miles from home and the wheel colapses. Also have a weeks break coming up in a few weeks time so I will use it to strip the bike and get it all sorted for the next stint of training.

Wheel is out of true, phone LBS to ask if they can sort it, guy says how many kilos on the bike, 5000 I say. He says I should replace the spokes? Is this good advice? DT Swiss hub on Mavic rims. Is there anything that lasts longer than 6 months on a MTB?

That looks like a bad design to start with. The carbon might very well take the heat from welding, question is will the epoxy resin used take the heat. If I were you I would start at the agents for Scott, they might just have some experience in this matter.