Pipsqueak

Looks pretty good. Is that a 650 fork?

Pics of 650 setup?

If my Monarch on my 120 is poked, do I get another one, or is there something else to consider?

No wonder he was a slow starter.

Folk will tell you to be careful with longer forks than the frame is designed for. But if you can get the head angle right, and try watch the bottom bracket height - which will be a fair bit lower, its fun trying.

You've got a great narrow/wide chainring manufacturer and supplier right here in SA. Just order from Kalbo. They last longer than Wolftooth/Raceface etc. Oval, round, whatever you want. 104 BCD.

Cool, thanks. So did you route under the BB? I see the newer bikes have cable guides UNDER the bike. Mine doesn't. I should ask Patrick if you can drill the front side of the seat-tube. I'll probably just get the silent head-shake.

SRAM has very good how to's on Rockshox forks. Youtube.

I know there was some chit-chat about it ages ago, but how does the internal cabling work on a metal Pyga? It looks like the cable comes out at the bottom of the seattube? Does it then run up below the BB? Next question... Can one retro drill this arrangement?

When are the 110s going to come out with that +5 offset?

Ya, see, I gave up stage racing because of that polished, spray-painted nonsense.

Now that there are a few Stages & Max's out there, I wondered if there was any consensus about "which bike for what purpose"conundrum? Can you really ride a marathon on a Max, and could you still fling a stage around on an enduro course. There's an interesting article about the 2 versions of Ripleys, one longer travel than the other, and the consensus there is that the steeper, shorter Ripley is actually a more enjoyable, flexible bike. http://www.pinkbike.com/news/ibis-ripley-vs-ibis-ripley-ls-opinion-2016.html I guess what I'm asking is, given the needs & wants of a trail-loving saffa mountain biker, which is the more flexible bike? For reference I have a 120 and a Zero 29. Thoughts?

What's the travel on your Pike?

For about R5 I can drive to the gas station and use their compressor. What, like 5/6 times a year.

Camber would compete with the Stage. The Max is a bigger balled machine.

Can anyone shed light here. I've had a OneTwenty for over 3 years now, and there's an ever so slight "clunk-clunk" in the rear suspension, when I'm off the bike and I lightly push down on the saddle. I can feel it when I'm riding - a tiny looseness somewhere. My best guess is the actual rear shock bushes - but I wanted to know if this has come around with anyone else? And where does one find replacement bushes if that is indeed the problem? Tx in advance.

Looks fantastic. But lycra should be banned in Lesotho.

Drill 2 holes in a Pyga frame to fit a Spaz swat box!

Great project, since they're not planning on selling it to the public they can do what they want. A rear wheel with zero dish would be a godsend. I'd buy the hub just for that.

Watch the Olympics, and the downhills for that matter. Bright orange forks on red bikes, bright blue ones on bright orange bikes. Matching is so 2015.

Ya, that's the first Merida I've actually liked.

That crank looks like Shimano's way of screwing all the indie chainring makers out there - forcing owners to buy Shimano rings only. Sneaky.

Colin from Kalbo sells spacers and long chainring bolts. He's in PMB. My 120 doesn't have a BB spacer, and I use Kalbo chainring spacers with a 32T oval and its perfect. Shimano SLX crank.

I used to ride a medium. When I bought a large I realised that cycling actually isn't all about pain tolerance. Yes, the lower back.

My wife went out and bought me my Pyga frame as a gift. The guy in the bike shop asked her if she was really married.