linnega

Dylan - everything is near the border of East London as it is not a very big city. Like Buff says your options are pretty limited. The N2 route is popular but illegal - ie bicycles are not allowed on the freeway. The road out to Stutterheim is also popular and a decent ride. Personal favourite is the route from Amalinda down Buffalo Pass and up the other side. You pass through a few small settlements but I have ridden it often on my own with no problems. This route allows you to get through to the coastal road without dealing with town and the semi-industrial area between town and the airport. For a long ride, keep on the coastal road past all the resort towns (Kidd's Beach, Christmas Rock etc) through a pass with a difficult to spell name and then onto Keiskamma Pass. This gives you about 2.5km of climbing each side. Return ride distance is probably in the region of 130km from Nahoon. Speak to the guys at HQ though as they will know of rides out that way. There are usually weekend rides from Erik's (across the road from HQ) that go out to Keiskamma and back.

I got married the day the Sharks last played the Lions in a Currie Cup final. Like Widget says you can't please everyone. At least this complaint was by someone who actually had a event that they had to go to - unlike Ivo Vegter a couple years ago who could have made a plan to work from home or bring their print deadline forward.

Straps could be too tight.

I agree with Popeye. No point in "upgrading" as an Anthem frame is an Anthem frame. Play a bit with parts to get what you want.

Forget about "die ratte". Where the friggin brakes??? Brakes are for pansies.

I can't for the life of me figure out why you would want to do this? Doesn't serve much purpose unless your feet and body are on the bike in riding position. In that position it is pretty difficult to tighten the bolts.

I think Alpina were part of the same stable of locally built bikes that included the Peugeot, Hansom and Le Turbo brands. Right to use the name was purchased and bikes built locally. I would have no hesitation riding one but they will be much heavier than modern bikes of any material.

I guess that kinda wraps the original argument. There is no reason why a well made Alu bike should be better than a well made carbon bike. As an aside, a couple people mentioned tyre pressure as having a significant on road feel with the common statement that softer tyre equals softer ride. Like the other arguments perhaps this should have been fully explained as there is obviously a point where too little tyre pressure equals a very uncomfortable ride, something I was reminded of the last two days as I rode the last 2km and then 3km on a practically flat rear tyre - not comfortable at all.

????

You can buy either tubes or ready-made frames from Dedacciai. It is possible that Raleigh does the former and De Rosa the latter. Using premade tubes is no different to steel manufacturers that buy tubes from Reynolds and build a bike. Those would still be considered handmade. Dedacciai makes no claims that their frames are made in Italy so one would presume that they are not.

Must say we really aren't blessed with real climbs. I ride a 5% 4km climb (M19 freeway, Durban) fairly regularly - about 100 times per year - but I don't really consider it much of a climb. There are a few steep bitches around (up to 15%+ in some places) but all are less than 2km so can't really count those either. The hill climb in Barberton is a decent climb but not particularly steep nor long. Boulders is a decent length but also not very steep. A real climb really needs to be longer than 5km and steeper than 8% on average, with at least 3km's over 9%. On the MTB, Libanon in the Karkloof marathon is a bit of a challenge, but otherwise I haven't come across any climbs that are steep for long periods and long. Most MTB climbs are a challenge more for the severe steep slopes for short periods and the poor quality surface you are climbing over. Burma Hill is a bitch, but you can't really count 2km of carrying your bike - same for most of the steep climbs at Giant's.

Maybe some details as to when it happens may help? Could be your cassette/chainring is catching the chain. Try recall which gear you were in when the chain broke. Could be your bikeshop doesn't put your chains together right? linnega2007-11-18 13:26:41

I imagine the problem is with your cables. Read this: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

Its a good 2c. The only cycling safety issue worth throwing money and effort at is motor vehicle driver awareness. Talk to your friends, write to your newspapers, discuss rules of the road with motor vehicle drivers the next time you have to stop at an intersection.

CCC - looks like that intersection was pretty clear. Assuming it was, it would have been better to pass through while the light was red, allowing the cars behind you easier passage as they would only have to contend with a line of steadily moving cyclists rather than a bunch of cyclists all clipping in and travelling at variable speeds. Follow the rules of the road where it makes sense and is safest. If it is not the safest option then screw the rules of the road. If that turns a motorist into a raging moron, then chances are he (or she) was a raging moron before they decided to take it out on a cyclist and your actions probably had nothing to do with it.

You submit your permanent race number on your entry form for each event exactly like your currently have to submit your CSA license number. So each entry form will make provision for your permanent number. I would imagine that your number has to be re-issued each year just like your license would need to be. You enter with an ID number. ID number links to license number and permanant race number, so the event organiser knows your license number, race number and seeding already.

The frames "going soft" is one of those legends that cycling is built on. Probably time to let that go the way of some others: - Smoking before a big mountain opens your lungs; - Brandy is the on-bike drink of choice; - Steak for breakfast is the best pre-race meal; - Red bikes are fastest

I have no problems with XT rotors on my slick wheels and Juicy 7 brakes (got Avid Roundagon rotors on the other wheels). There should not be any compatibility issue as the rotor is the same width and diameter ie what could the problem be? I'd suggest doing what BB suggested and you should be sorted.linnega2007-11-14 06:57:03

Not quite sure that you wrote what you meant to say. Shimano does not have an easy remove option. You need a chaintool to remove the chain which is a pain in the arse. You can do the same with Campy chains but you need to replace the pin. Best options for any chain is a quick link from Wipperman, SRAM, KNC, and all chains are removeable with a simple bend and twist.

Get Presta valves with a removeable core. Otherwise you can only get it in by making a hole.

On the road bike every 6-8 weeks seems to work for me, and that has been through the "winter" months, which in Durban means not cold, but fairly dusty conditions.

Gone back to using plain old oil and is working fine. Probably better than Squirt. You don't need much and it keeps the drivetrain quiet. Have ridden in dust, rain and mud recently and not had any issues. Wax based lubricants don't seem to handle the wet that well. On the MTB I replace the lube after washing my bike as the chain gets washed at the same time.