GaryvdM

The article on "Sense" in Wikipedia is about the physiological capacities of organisms that provide data for perception, e.g. for humans, sight, hearing, taste, smell, and touch. It's very interesting. But what is the connection between it and what you are talking about???

Interesting read on cities, cars, public transport, and self propelled transport (walking and cycling:) www.theguardian.com/society/2013/nov/01/secrets-worlds-happiest-cities-commute-property-prices I wish we could somehow bring this into the political conscience.

If this is happening, I'm sure that something is wrong. For this to happen, the distance between the two cones is decreasing when you tighten the skewer. Are you sure the axel is in one piece? What model of hub/wheel is this?

My 2c from a mtb noob: what he did is wrong, but I think the punishment is too hash. 10min would be appropriate imo.

I would recommend Linden cycles https://plus.google.com/117098065384127837185/

You must feel like a proper chop for mistaking a woman for an oke!

Workshops have a booking system for a reason. If the workshop staff have to drop what they doing for everyone who wants something done while they wait cause it will just take a minute, then the speed and quality of their work will take a serious knock. Out of interest, what type of BB is it? The old cup and cone BBs that I have worked on have hex heads, so you just need a std ring flat spanner of the correct size, of if worst comes to worst, a shifting spanner.

What browser are you using? I know it does not work in IE versions older than 10. Try using Firefox.

So I was mistaken. This is not a Dengfu bike. It is a Shenzhen Honsen bike.

When will the surprise be reviled?

So I tried sanding a bit more of the treads away. This did not help. Went back to the shop. Got a pair of Shamino PD-M520. Much better. Chalk and cheese. In other words, the Ryder pedals are just really crap.

TITS? The results on Google search are enjoyable viewing, but not really helping me out.

Route video + map + elevation profile: http://garyvdm.co.za/route.html?Wilro

There was also a tree down over the line on the side of the Delta Park school field.

In another thread, someone queried what I said about Vets and racing license. So I went and read the CSA rules. The following is quoted from this document: www.cyclingsa.com/App_Resources/Uploads/FILE00003111.pdf CYCLING SOUTH AFRICA RULES AND REGULATIONS Part 3: Road Cycling. In this matter, there are different rules for different categories of race: This seems a bit inconsistent to me. Why would one need a racing licence for provincial classics, and regional events, but not for national classics. It's maybe worth somebody clarifying this with CSA.

No That was my hearsay understanding of the CSA rules. Now that you queried what I said, I decided to actually go read the rules. The following is quoted from this document: www.cyclingsa.com/App_Resources/Uploads/FILE00003111.pdf CYCLING SOUTH AFRICA RULES AND REGULATIONS Part 3: Road Cycling. In this matter, there are different rules for different categories of race: This seems a bit inconsistent to me. Why would one need a racing licence for provincial classics, and regional events, but not for National Classics. It's maybe worth clarifying this with CSA. Anyway, according to the CSA event calendar, Wilro is a grade C event, and so following the `letter of the law`, a racing license is required. Whether this is actually followed in practice, I don't know. I've never raced in vets (my goal for this year is to get quick enough to race VA next year.)

You need a CSA racing license, and a seeding index lower than 20.

I'll make a video + map + profile like I did for the Argus tonight.. Edit: Yhea. A scan of a photocopy of a 5 year old copy of a flyer in 2014 is piss poor. The route is the same as last year. Here is a basic map: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=210392285426069616757.0004da7e9c0713112073b&msa=0

You never know where life takes you. Who knows. Circumstances might change, and you might get to ride the Argus again. However, I'm glad you got to ride this year.

Or a boat....

I froze my ass off waiting at the start. They need to organize better weather at the start for next year.

Yip, silly of me to buy the cheep stuff. Ends up costing more in the long run....

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm going to first try make the existing setup work by sanding a bit more of the tread away, so that the cleat can slide in, if that fails, I'll try raise the cleat with a spacer. If that fails, I'll get non dual pedals. The cleats are the one's that came with the pedal. It's a Ryder pedal. They advertise that the cleat is SPD compatible, so thats why it look like the Shamino cleat.

So the only cleat systems I've used up to now have been Look and Shamino road cleats. I'm fairly confident with the cleat-in process with these road cleats. I've started doing some MTB riding. I bought my dad's old MTB from him. It's a 1996 Kona AA Mountain Shock. Yes, I know, 26". But I've been having a lot of fun on it on the Spruit. And I've entered my first MTB race: the Delta dash. The bike had bear traps on it. I road with them for a while, but shat my self a few times with my feet coming out on jumps. I then road a few times with my road pedals. I'm much more confident with cleats than with the bear traps. But river crossings in the road shoes are not so lekker, and this is doing a lot of damage to the road cleats. So I went and bought some MTB pedals and shoes. So I asked my LBS for a flat + cleat combo pedal because have also been using the bike when I walk the dogs, and I don' t want to have to use a cycling shoe when I do this. (This was maybe a mistake.) At first I could not cleat in at all. After I took the shoes off, and tried to cleat the shoe in while I looked from the bottom, I realized that the shoe treads on the sides of the cleats interfered with the pedal body. So I sanded the treads away where it interfered. I can now cleat in, but it is a slow painstaking process. With the road cleats, I find it very easy to get the cleat to find the front of the pedal. I just put my toe on the pedal, and then slide my foot forward. I guess this works with the road cleat because the bottom of the shoe is flat. With the MTB pedals/cleats/shoes combo I bought, this does not work, cause of the treads on the shoe, and the bits of the pedal that makes it also a flat pedal. So when I try cleat in, it's a hit and miss process of trying to find the exact right place. And when I get it wrong, it's either a case of the metal and metal grinding together, or the something on the shoe hooks on the the pedal. In addition, I've had the shoe uncleat unexpectedly. (I have the pedal tension set in the middle of the range.) So I'm trying to work out where I have gone wrong. Have I bought the wrong type of pedal and cleat, or the wrong type of shoe, or the wrong type of pedal, cleat and shoe? Or do I just need to persist with it?

According to racetec, she did: http://results.racet...09km)&GG=Female (Taylor is her maiden name) Huh. Last year = 2013. Question was about 2008.