Tankman

Yes it is fixable. Take it to your LBS. They will fit a new spoke and true the wheel again. Unless you have the correct length spokes lying around at home ... LBS

This is a lockout in the default (Descent) position without cable tension. It would move clockwise on each click (cable pull) to Trail an then Climb.

To me, the logical way to setup lockouts, is to have it in open by default. Just in case the there is a problem with the cable, lever or lockout, you can remove it and still have active suspension. Looks like yours moved.. It should be in Descent (Open) mode with no cable tension. Trail with one click and Climb (closed) on the last click. Quite easy to open and move it to the desired position. I can help you out if you are in Stellenbosch area.

True nannas! Q20 should be applied directly and generously to all Avid pads and rotors. Stops squealing, stops braking and keeps breaking. *Disclaimer: We are having a relatively slow day in the workshop today. Oh and I aint no Avid fan. It is very easy to follow the instructions on the label. Tankman AVOIDS!

Half the price cheaper than it was last year!! Why are all the other event organisers not following this trend??

Sounds confusing. The cable should pull not push. Photo perhaps?

Sounds confusing. The cable should pull not push. Photo perhaps?

Q20

Only if you bomb like a tjop! Keep the valve at 9, 12 or 3 o'clock and you wont have any snot balls. But if you keep the valve at 6 o'clock, you are blowing that Co2 directly onto the snot boll forming sealant, tjop!

Remove with hammer. Install Shimano XT's Have a beer.

Not quite, car tires are tubeless and uses a plug same as on mtb tires. Did a litte research and it seems like a patch is inserted though the needle. It seems to be adhesive on both sides so the patch will stick to the inside of the tire as you pull the needle out. You then inflate the tube and the patch will stick to the tube ... theoretically covering the puncture hole!

Looks like they are using tubbies in the video Although I am not sure I quite "get" how this works. It will work on tubeless. BUT if it works on tubbies that R100 a pop to repair vs R1000 a pop for a new tubblie is a no-brainer!

Oh and getting a shower in before work is the next challenge ... luckily there was a Virgin Active next door to her work. Train arrives in CT at 8am, work is 20min walk from station plus shower, to be at work 8:30! And luckily she doesnt do that commute any longer!

What DJR said ... plus you are not allowed to take a bike on the business express train. We investigated some options for SupremeLady to get some extra training in before the Epic. She commuted from Somerset to CT with the Metro Business Express which is way better and safer than the normal train. Getting off at dodgey stations or leaving your bike somewhere wasnt an option. We ended having to leave her car overnight somewhere. Drive with car and bike to Kuilsrivier, get on train go to work and get off at Kuilsrivier again. Park car somewhere safer, get bike out, go cycle. Not alone, I would meet her at the parking spot, Kuilsrivier is dodgey enough that I didn't want her out there alone. Cycle through Stellenbosch to Somerset (home) or wherever before darkness. Next morning cycle back to car, bike in car, park at station and get on train. I would cycle back to work in Stellies from there. Not ideal but at least we got a couple of extra miles in with the time constraints given.

Bargin ... buy them quickly OP!

What you can use if for and what it was intended for is not the same. You can use a Mini to pull a double-wheeler Jurgers caravan ... but that was not what it was intended for. A unit intended for cycling, with 1,3,5sec or smart recording would be the Garmin Edge 500, 510, 800 or 810. Use the right tool for the job and you will get your pretty pictures more accurate.

Sagan does that ... no hands, closed eyes!

They cost R700 each in the good old days, they are now closer to R950 each. You dont have many opions either. Hutchinson or Michelin

Will not work. You have to change the whole crank. The left crank of a Sram rival will not fit onto this:

With only 6 dopers left, my team isnt doing too bad!

The Edge 200 IS a gps! How do you think it works if you can not add HR, speed, cadence or any accessories?

Not carbon ... but you can build your own. https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/130226-building-a-rigid-29er-fork/page__hl__rigid My second attempt looks much more bling ... with 140mm Kashima stanchions

New to the hub - Welcome New to wheel building - Welcome with a bit of good luck! Building a set from scratch will not be cheap, buying is cheaper. You cheapest option will be a steel wheelset that uses a screw-in cog, 7speed. (or SS ) We sell those for around R500 for the set. If you want lighter, you can go alloy, we sell the screw-in sets for around R800. If you want an alloy set with freebody (for a cassette) then you start looking at around R1300 for the set. All new, all v-brake.

If you are a weekend warrior, just playing around and like the look of no FD or left shifter, then go for 1x10. If you are pushing yourself to be as competitive as can be then you might be missing out on some gears. I personally found that you loose too many gears, top and bottom, with 1x10 on long rides. With 1x10 I could not even get up to speed in the car park. Not too worried about climbing, my SS sorts that out HTFU-style, very quickly! 1x11 offers good gear ratio. Edit: 2x10 offers better ratio!

Accurate info for what it was intended for. I cant remember, what was the yellow brick intended for again?