Tankman

If you have a Garmin, why do you want a speed sensor? Unless training indoors of course.

So you did not win the Strava KOM?

If you are getting the Ultegra 6800 crankset, you are in luck and dont really need to worry. You can chop and change between standard and compact by just changing the chairings. It has a 110mm BCD and the combos can be anyting from 34 to 55. Like 50/34, 52/36, 52/39, 53/39 or even 46/36 for cyclocross. If compact is working for you, stick with it, if it is not working ... read above again!

How to service Eggbeaters:

Froomie's wrist is sore from walking around like a pansy!

Those be my oaks of genetically modified ass kicking power!

No calls, no radios. These oaks dont need youth or sprinters ... just EPO, amphetamines and masking agents! B) Final answer!

This year I am choosing: Lance Armstrong Jan Ullrich Marco Pantani Bjarne Riis Ivan Basso David Millar Floyd Landis Alessandro Petacchi Michael Rusmussen On reserve : Alexandre Vinokourov David Zabriske Levi Leipheimer George Hincapie Not sure what to call them: Needles EPOBOL Gunja Gang

K-Edge! No silly plastic mounts that crack, no stupid add ins that turn the camera in the right direction and having the camera a mile from the bar, shaking its ass off. Steady, sturdy and solid! http://www.acecosportgroup.com/shop/k-edge-go-big-go-pro-hero-camera-mount.html Thank me later. P.S I can order what you need... if you dont find it locally.

Let me put it another way. You bring you Dunlop, Raleigh, Game, Macro or Pick n Pay special to me for a service and I will gladly soak your chain in car oil, sump oil, Q20, Helix or Castrol. You bring your Scalpel, Anthem, Flash, Tallboy, Epic, Spark, Propel, Foil, Venge, Dogma ... etc. to me for a service and I will only apply a bike spesific lubricant like Smoove, White Lightning, Squirt, Finish Line, RocknRoll, Purple Extreme ... (the list goes on and on) ... unless specifically instructed to use something else. You bike, your choice! When that choice is left in my hands and people entrust me to provide the best advice and expertise, I will only use the best tool available for that job. I wont be using a cassette remover to remove your BB, I wont fill you petrol engine with diesel and I wont use freeking oil! Now, go lube your chain ... mine is good to go!

You still havent answered that one specific question before we can move forward. Let me ask it one more time: Are you saying that car oil will perform exactly the same as a bike spesific wax based lubicant? Porqui said apply the car oil every second ride, implying that this is what he uses all the time. And this is where we differ. Read my question again, then answer.

The way in which I apply lube is not in question here. I dont use wet lube or oil, no even in the wet and I have a pretty clear understanding on how to apply lube. Yes I do know. Do you know that they manufacture different types of lubricants for different applications? Different lubrications for bicycles as for cars. Some lubricants perform better in certain conditions than others. Sure cold oil will lube on a chain just as it would on anything else ... but it wont perform better than say something that was designed for that environment (exposed, dirt, water, mud) So ... are saying that the oil will attract just as much dirt as a wax based lubicant?

Lets see, pay a bit more for the correct lube or replace your drivetrain much sooner ... difficult choice. Sticks to everything as in it makes a mess by sticking to your frame, cassette and makes a mess. Of course it should stick to the chain but it should not become a chunky, sticky, messy, black dirty affair.. If you want to use car oil in muddy and wet conditions ... sure it will work for that. I am talking everyday general purpose. Car oil does not get exposed to dirt, mud and water, as it does on the bicycle. It is protected inside the engine and also gets heated up quite nicely. I dont see any of that happening on a bicycle chain. It stays cold, exposed, and attracts dirt. Next time you change your car oil, mix a handful of sand in with the new oil and see how your engine likes it. Fill up with diesel while you are at it, you know, to save some bucks. Wax based lubricants work much better for bicycle chains. It provides the necessary lubrication, dries up and forms a protective layer without making a mess or attracting dirt.

No bru! You mean that stuff that goes black, messy, sticks to everything and attracts dirt. Use the right tools (lube) for the job.

This is what happens. The same that happens on your chainring blades will happen with the cassette. First is a new chainring. The chain rollers fit nice and snug. Engagement is quick. (Black arrow is the direction of rotation) As the blade or cassete gets worn, the rolles does not fit that snug and engagement wont be as quick as when it was new. This one is worn ... not too bad ... but clearly visible. Thats why it is best to replace parts before the wear out and replacing only one part of the drivetrain wont solve the problem if other parts are already worn.

Those type of chain checkers are not very accurate and should be used as a guideline. Here is the measurement part you were looking for: In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm. If the link pin is up to 25.5 cm or halfway between 38.2 cm and 38.3 cm, all is well. If the link pin is a little bit past 25.5 cm, or approaching 38.3 cm, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged. If the link pin is approaching 25.7 cm or 38.5 cm, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at this point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets. More than that, and a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones. Replacing only the chain wont solve the problem if you cassette and chainings have already worn out too far. I have replaced mtb chains in anything from 700kms to 1500kms ... all dependent on various factors, some road chains has lasted 300km's but you can ride it till everything is vrot and then replace the whole drivetrain.

Actionphoto says this is them:

ADT doing some great work!! :thumbup: They picked up two bikes in Stellenbosch. Looking at the Argus actionphoto numbers on the bikes, it seems they belong to Johannes Bosch and Stephanie Stoffberg. Anyone have contact details for them? Or they can contact Sean Pigden at ADT 083 260 2521

No need for a rear brake, leave as is. You have more than enough stopping power on the front only.

My bad ... how could I not have known!

Rondom R450 sover ek onthou. Wie de moer is BSA?

Yes it is possible, FSA has a conversion kit available for exactly this. Laat weet maar as ek vir jou een kan kry ou maat!

Moonlight Maddness Took the photo at our first Moonlight Mass. I was totally drawn into this little African restaurant by the funky music they were pumping out. Ran upstairs and snapped the shot with a 7MP Sony "mik & druk" pocket cam. Not tricks, no fancy settings, just had it on auto! We always have such a jol at Moonlight! Why I like this shot... As in the photo, my wife to be is always providing clarity when life around us gets a bit fuzzy!

Yup no need for gpx files. Looking at where you are going is way more fun than looking at your gps. Black route is the best! The red cuts out some of the most awesome singletrack!

A shorter cage would be for 2x10. That won't work with a 3x10 setup. The chain will be rubbing against the bottom of the cage while in the smallest chainring. You can use a 3x10 (long) cage on a 2x10 setup but not the other way round. No need to worry about the number of teeth on the chainring for now either. That only comes into play when using an E-type or direct mount derailleur. Let me see if I can find that derailleur for you, work in Stellenbosch, live in Somerset.