Tankman

I dont think there is any concrete proof that either Rock Shox or Fox stanchions will wear faster than the other. It is all circumstantial, down to maintenance and looking after your stuff. Case in point. I was servicing this fork for a client last night, first service in two years. Whether that dirt and grime got there after the 1st ride, 10th ride or 30th ride ... it is not magically going to disappear not in Fox, not Rock Shox, not in Manitou or anything else. You physically have to clean or replace it and will stay dirty untill you do that and that might only be 50 rides or 200hrs later, damage ... already ... done!

I see this way to often. People wait until it is forked or has stopped working, THEN they want to service it! The dustwipers and foam rings does a pretty good job at collecting dust and keeping the stanchions clean. BUT if you dont do your job by cleaning or having them cleaned, all that dirt, grit and grime becomes sanding paper. Not to mention all that dirt going into the oil and then being forced through and sticking to internals where it is not supposed to be, causing havoc! Service on a regular basis! A service with seal kit is 10x cheaper than replacing stanchions.

How do you recon that happened?

Oh and getting a shower in before work is the next challenge ... luckily there was a Virgin Active next door to her work. Train arrives in CT at 8am, work is 20min walk from station plus shower, to be at work 8:30! And luckily she doesnt do that commute any longer!

What DJR said ... plus you are not allowed to take a bike on the business express train. We investigated some options for SupremeLady to get some extra training in before the Epic. She commuted from Somerset to CT with the Metro Business Express which is way better and safer than the normal train. Getting off at dodgey stations or leaving your bike somewhere wasnt an option. We ended having to leave her car overnight somewhere. Drive with car and bike to Kuilsrivier, get on train go to work and get off at Kuilsrivier again. Park car somewhere safer, get bike out, go cycle. Not alone, I would meet her at the parking spot, Kuilsrivier is dodgey enough that I didn't want her out there alone. Cycle through Stellenbosch to Somerset (home) or wherever before darkness. Next morning cycle back to car, bike in car, park at station and get on train. I would cycle back to work in Stellies from there. Not ideal but at least we got a couple of extra miles in with the time constraints given.

Bargin ... buy them quickly OP!

What you can use if for and what it was intended for is not the same. You can use a Mini to pull a double-wheeler Jurgers caravan ... but that was not what it was intended for. A unit intended for cycling, with 1,3,5sec or smart recording would be the Garmin Edge 500, 510, 800 or 810. Use the right tool for the job and you will get your pretty pictures more accurate.

Sagan does that ... no hands, closed eyes!

They cost R700 each in the good old days, they are now closer to R950 each. You dont have many opions either. Hutchinson or Michelin

Will not work. You have to change the whole crank. The left crank of a Sram rival will not fit onto this:

With only 6 dopers left, my team isnt doing too bad!

The Edge 200 IS a gps! How do you think it works if you can not add HR, speed, cadence or any accessories?

Not carbon ... but you can build your own. https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/130226-building-a-rigid-29er-fork/page__hl__rigid My second attempt looks much more bling ... with 140mm Kashima stanchions

New to the hub - Welcome New to wheel building - Welcome with a bit of good luck! Building a set from scratch will not be cheap, buying is cheaper. You cheapest option will be a steel wheelset that uses a screw-in cog, 7speed. (or SS ) We sell those for around R500 for the set. If you want lighter, you can go alloy, we sell the screw-in sets for around R800. If you want an alloy set with freebody (for a cassette) then you start looking at around R1300 for the set. All new, all v-brake.

If you are a weekend warrior, just playing around and like the look of no FD or left shifter, then go for 1x10. If you are pushing yourself to be as competitive as can be then you might be missing out on some gears. I personally found that you loose too many gears, top and bottom, with 1x10 on long rides. With 1x10 I could not even get up to speed in the car park. Not too worried about climbing, my SS sorts that out HTFU-style, very quickly! 1x11 offers good gear ratio. Edit: 2x10 offers better ratio!

Accurate info for what it was intended for. I cant remember, what was the yellow brick intended for again?

If you have a Garmin, why do you want a speed sensor? Unless training indoors of course.

So you did not win the Strava KOM?

If you are getting the Ultegra 6800 crankset, you are in luck and dont really need to worry. You can chop and change between standard and compact by just changing the chairings. It has a 110mm BCD and the combos can be anyting from 34 to 55. Like 50/34, 52/36, 52/39, 53/39 or even 46/36 for cyclocross. If compact is working for you, stick with it, if it is not working ... read above again!

How to service Eggbeaters:

Froomie's wrist is sore from walking around like a pansy!

Those be my oaks of genetically modified ass kicking power!

No calls, no radios. These oaks dont need youth or sprinters ... just EPO, amphetamines and masking agents! B) Final answer!

This year I am choosing: Lance Armstrong Jan Ullrich Marco Pantani Bjarne Riis Ivan Basso David Millar Floyd Landis Alessandro Petacchi Michael Rusmussen On reserve : Alexandre Vinokourov David Zabriske Levi Leipheimer George Hincapie Not sure what to call them: Needles EPOBOL Gunja Gang

K-Edge! No silly plastic mounts that crack, no stupid add ins that turn the camera in the right direction and having the camera a mile from the bar, shaking its ass off. Steady, sturdy and solid! http://www.acecosportgroup.com/shop/k-edge-go-big-go-pro-hero-camera-mount.html Thank me later. P.S I can order what you need... if you dont find it locally.