droo

As others have said, that's the first sign of a scam, and most likely not his ID. Especially if he was the one to suggest it. Bikehub Pay FTW. Have used it a few times now for transactions I haven't been able to close in person.

Meh. I guess the choice will come down to resale value or n+1 then... Either replace damper and flog the old one when it's repaired, or replace fork. Then you can either flog the old fork or keep it and start looking for a new frame to put it on when it's fixed...

All of them except the Lezyne are made in the same factory, so pick whichever one matches your tool board's colour scheme. The RS 600psi one will be easier to get to 350psi because it has a thinner barrel, but otherwise they're all pretty much the same thing. The Fox and RS digital ones go to 350 as does the Fox analogue one. The Ryder ones have a bit of an awkward chuck. IIRC the RavX one does 400psi and has a 2 stage manual chuck with a pin that releases the valve manually, so it'll be easier to remove once inflated since you can close the valve and release pressure from the hose before screwing it off, which will save wear on the chuck and valve stem. If you can find one of these it'll be first prize. Gauge accuracy isn't really an issue as long is it gives consistent readings - it only becomes a problem if you're swapping between pumps.

Yeah, I could fit that seal for you for not much more than a standard rebuild. Shipping would probably kill it for you though. How long till you're back for a visit?

For marathon you'll get away with most things as long as they're 29" if you're not too worried about the descents. XC and light trail use the one that I'd probably go for is the 2017+ Scott Spark 120. But be prepared to spend on getting whatever you buy fixed up. Most "bargain" bikes in this segment have been ridden 6 times round the world with very little servicing - a FS that's been treated like a road bike and pressure washed at least once a week is going to need a lot of stuff replaced.

In this price range, most likely. From about 2019 - 2020 onwards you can find XC and marathon bikes with progressive geo, but you need to know what you're looking for.

I suspect that most of those will need serious work, and the Cypher is far more up to date ITO geometry. Agree that the spec on the Titan could be better, but at that price point it's a tradeoff between a decent frame and a decent build kit. I'd go with frame every time. Fork and wheels are the first upgrades, and the rest you ride till it falls off.

For a dual sus with decent geo that's a pretty good price, and will come with a warranty. Microshift - pretty entry level, but they've been improving. It'll work until it doesn't - ride it till it falls off, then replace with what you actually want.

I somehow managed to forget about OneUp in my recommendations. Also well worth checking out. It doesn't matter how old the Fall Line is, if there's oil in there it's most likely toast. The trick is to have a dedicated shock pump for your seatpost so there's no chance of oil contamination, but at last count that recommendation was buried so far in the fine print you'd never find it.

I've dealt with these things extensively, and you have 3 options: 1. Send it to me and I'll have a crack at it. It's usually oil contamination from a shock pump that causes this, and about 20% of the time cleaning out the brake assembly will get it working again. (20% was sadly not a typo.) 2. Source a new brake assembly from 9.8, then see step 1. There may be others closer to you who can do it, but I'm not sure who they are. 3. Bin it, get a Bikeyoke, Fox Transfer or Lyne Contour. Bikeyoke and Lyne for ease and economy of service, Transfer and Bikeyoke for bulletproof and no play, Lyne for range of sizes and wallet-friendliness.

I have one I'm unlikely to use. Sort shipping and it's all yours.

Couldn't have said it better myself. Calipers are cheap if you can find a Deore or SLX. But it's holiday time and some folk have more time than spare cash. And others (like me) prefer to fix a thing than throw it away. The upside of buying a new caliper is that there's a spare piston and seal in the old one if it happens again, or if a mate has the same issue.

If it's leaking from the pistons, new caliper. Any Shimano caliper will do, as long as it's got the same hose fitting as the current one. Either that or you'll need to scrounge a spare piston (and possibly a seal) from a friendly LBS that has one in their spares bin, or take your chances with an AliExpress rebuild kit.

Bolton Footwear are the local agents if you can't get them from Omnico. They're pretty decent with backup.

Sound more like a flat spot or out of round than a dent to me. If whoever trued your wheels is decent he should have been able to pull it round, but if there's a flat spot it's pretty much toast. Same as if it's got a buckle rather than just wonky tension - you can only pull a minor bend straight with spoke tension.

You'll get a replacement from whoever sells those frames if it's not too old, if they can't get for you then check https://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hanger-tech-help, your LBS will be able to order from the local distro.

Preach. Also the knockoffs often don't quite know what they're knocking off exactly. Like watching someone doing something versus them teaching you. You may not quite understand what it is you're looking at.

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/saddles/689548/ergon-sm-pro-men Not sure if it's the right width, but might save you a few grand. I've got the Allroad Pro, no complaints.

There are a few group rides in the central CT area - Ciovita (a local clothing manufacturer) do one on a Wednesday morning, East City Cycles do one on a Friday, and you're welcome to give me a shout for a weekend mission, our group is out at least once a weekend. For a bike - chat to Revolution Cycles or Cycling Friends, one is in central CT and the other in in Greenpoint.

Sit bone measurement as a first step, I now you just said it but I'm saying it again. I've been riding saddles that have been too narrow for 30 years, and finding out that I needed a 155 was enlightening. Drop darts, don't throw them.

Half a job will buy you a bit of time, but you'll be replacing the shock soon enough anyway. I'd bet that by the time the air can seals are leaking, the damper is beyond blown anyway. And just for extra spice, Suntour use proprietary tools for IFP charging on their inline shocks. OP - if you need to buy yourself some time to find a replacement, Baron's solution is a good one. If you're planning on keeping the bike more than a few months, just replace the shock with something that has proper local backup. Fox is first in line, RS a distant second.

They did indeed, but the 44mm one is the OG HT2 one. No plastic doofer required.

Most okes need a stepladder to get on one of yours anyway.

Should be the bog standard Shimano one.

Not a 210 x 55, that's a standard eyelet size. That's a trunnion mount, which means it's either a 205 x 65 or a 190 x 55. You can find service kits for those online - bike24 or similar. If you do manage to find one I can do the service for you, but I'd recommend rather replacing with a Fox for ease of service, availablility of spares etc going forward. Dragons just sell Suntour, their support is close to nonexistent.