droo

Armour ride if you want the stealth wrap effect. Not the toughest, but you can replace individual bits if they get damaged. Available in precut kits or as a complete frame wrap, not sure if they have people to apply the full kits outside of CT though. Give them a shout, they're pretty helpful in my experience. AMS is as hard as a badger. Not subtle, but I've never seen it get damaged in a crash. Available in bunch of different sizes, with patterns and such if that's your thing. There are a few other DIY kits out there, but these are the top two that we've used.

TDF is done, you can turn the VPN off now.

That's got nothing to do with bladed spokes, that's either a badly designed or badly built wheel, or running too big a tyre for your fork.

Depends which Rovals. The entry level ones are a bit rubbish, but the higher end ones are proper. Especially since they've stopped arsing about with clever spoke patterns and proprietary front hubs.

If it's a 44mm head tube, an EC44/40 lower cup will sort you out. If it's a 34mm head tube I can replace the tapered steerer with a straight one, but it'll be about twice the price.

Fork oil of the right viscosity will be fine, but the Silkolene that you posted is damper oil and will most likely wear your stanchions out. 0W30 or 5W30 multigrade will also do the job - the 0W30 is what Rockshox have been using for ages. The RSP stuff from RBC is made for the job, as is Motorex Supergliss if you can find it. The closest off the shelf stuff that I've found so far is Fuchs Renolin CGLP68 slideway oil, but I've found it doesn't last as long as the Fox or multigrade so you'll need to be doing a lowers service every 50 - 75 hours.

CSU creaks can make a few noises, usually closer to a click. If your LBS can't cure it, pop in and we'll have a look for you.

It's definitely not meant to do that. Could be a few things: Headset loose / undergreased / badly assembled Topcaps not tightened properly CSU creak Not the fork at all, but some other bit of the bike that's creaking First two are easy enough to sort out, CSU creak less so but it can be done. You don't say where you are, but if it's easy enough to get to CT I can have a look at it for you. That bit you've pointed out on your photo is normal.

You are from the Souff so it's to be expected. (My car is from round there and has gold rims, which is how I know)

+1 Just for irony

I have this conversation often. It starts with "We agree that it's already broken, right?"

I've had a pretty good run with Spez Roubaix tyres. Grippy, comfortable and very few punctures in the 5000 odd km I've put on them so far.

It isn't until it is. You may be lucky, but in general it's not a good idea.

There you go. The lining of the bushing is coming off because the bushing was toast when the new CSU was installed and should have been replaced. I'd have a word with that mechanic if I were you.

Is the cassette rattly when off the bike? Is the spline on the 50T tight on the mating spline on the driver? Any sign of wear on either? Any play between the cassette and the core?

Same as all suspension bits - stay away from high pressure water and stick to your intervals. One extra - don't pull up on a dropper when it's down. It can boil the oil in the cartridge and make a DIY suspension seatpost.

Chat to a proper cobbler and see what he can do. You may need a set of donor soles from an old pair of shoes, but the uppers should be no great challenge to someone who knows what he's doing.

Fox service cost is about R 1 650 now for the older ones, closer to R 2k for the newer version. The new one you can do the intermediate service yourself if you're into that kind of thing, the R 22k proprietary toolkit is only needed for the cartridge rebuild. Bikeyoke is entirely rebuildable with a basic toolkit, and quality and reliability are on par with Fox. Much lower maintenance cost and cheaper spares. Lyne, OneUp and E13 are from the same factory, but with slight variations in design. The first two are better with spares though, and I've seen more worn out E13s than the others - although this is just anecdotal and may point to user error as much as anything else. One-Up and E13 are adjustable for drop, the rest are not. FWIW - I run a Bikeyoke, but would just as soon run the Transfer - but I have the toolkit which makes servicing easier,

If it's being properly serviced this shouldn't be happening. Rebas last forever if you look after them.

Check if there's a set of lowers on the invoice. If not, you have your answer. But more than 200 hours with lots of locked out riding could do that. 200 hour major service with a lowers service in between should be your default.

From the photos you posted one of two things has happened here. One is that you're a slow learner, ran the fork too long and wore your stanchion out again - doubtful, since you've had to fork out for a replacement already. The other, more likely one is that the bushings weren't done and the old wrecked bushing has taken the stanchion with it.

Best PF92 solution I've found so far. Install the shell once and forget about it. Change out bearings when they get rough.

Did you replace bushings at the same time? If not, see my previous post.

Sounds like your cartridge has popped. Service and new cartridge and you're good to go, hopefully someone will be along with a recommendation for a decent mechanic in your area. I don't know the Woesrand well at all.

I've got, PM me if you want me to send you one.