droo

If the bolt is out it's pretty easy really. Find a slightly longer bolt that fits, and a nut and washer. Turn the nut on to the bolt so there's about 10 - 15mm of thread through the nut. Add the washer and thread the exposed bit of bolt into the bottle boss. Now hold the bolt still and tighten the nut onto the boss until the boss is tight again. Remove the bolt. Job done. A bottle boss is a rivnut - basically a threaded rivet. It just needs to be compressed again so it grips the wall of the tube. Or if you have access to a rivnut tool, just use that. But most people don't.

The only thing you might battle to find is chainrings - chains and cassettes are easy to find. And if you replace your chain before 0.5% wear you'll take a very long time to wear your rings (and cassette) out.

Zones look ok if he's using the LTHR model, but it's the 2 hours in zone 3+ at the start of a close to 5 hour ride that did it I reckon... I'd guess tailwind for the first half of the ride so nowhere to hide in the bunch and burned matches holding on. OP - it's not your gearing.

If it's currently 10sp it's an HG driver. I need to know what kind of hub you have so I can tell you if there's a compatible MS driver. 10t at the sharp end for better range, and the Shimano cassette and chain combo shifts infinitely better than SX / NX / Sunrace. Not saying it's the only way to go, but if it's an option it's definitely worth considering.

You'll have to crack 3 then. Not cos you'll look like a poser if you don't, but because there's no ways you're going for a slash in a green rocket wearing one of those.

Should be easy enough, bring it round and we'll have a look.

Frans Conradie to N7, through Thornton, into Pinelands, down Forest Drive to Raapenberg, onto Liesbeeck Parkway and straight through to town from there. 40km odd each way though, hope you're up for a big one if you want any of the Atlantic scenic stuff...

If you're looking at the 40c folders, tubeless all day. Stans Race, Enduro Gravel or Veyga Road sealant, pressures as per https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure. Remeber to pack some small plugs, you don't want to try to seal a glass cut with a standard MTB sized one. If you're looking at any of the wirebead options, tubes will be better. But rather go for the big folders, both for puncture resistance and because they'll look a bit less silly on a MTB.

If there's an incident there it won't matter whether you're 1km or 100km away. The whole of the greater Cape Town area is in its backyard.

First thing we need to know is what rear hub you have. If it's got a steel HG (old Shimano) driver, you can get 12sp cassettes from SRAM or Sunrace that will fit, but if you can get the Shimano Microspline driver you'll have a much better experience overall. The rest is plug and play.

Short term solution - nail varnish. Cheap to free. Medium term solution - new Kashima CSU. May or may not chip again, I've seen some that do and some that don't. The smaller the stanchion the more likely it is to chip again. From what I've seen the flaking at the top is caused by the coating cracking due to flex rather than by impacts. Once it's cracked, water gets in and the rest is history. Long term solution - black ano CSU. Bombproof. Pricing will depend on stanchion diameter.

No, but I know on the 130 you can fit a much bigger cell in and boost battery life significantly. May be possible with the 1030 as well.

Prick it. If stacking multiple cells was problematic we'd have far fewer battery powered gadgets to play with.

Indeed, but those are sold as part of the bike and as such are designed for the conditions. Bicycle kickstands are usually designed for and sold on commuter bikes, and I've often seen them deploy while riding off a pavement. I'm sure decent ones exist, hence pointing out that it's worth taking the time to look for one.

You definitely can. You really shouldn't, but you can.

The main thing about kickstands off road is that they can drop on rough terrain. Not ideal. Not sure how easy it is to find a decent one that stays up, but I know they're pretty useful for bikepacking so maybe start there,

The shoes are the biggest problem. It's hard to look like you mean business wearing disco slippers.

Between the station and the bus terminus. Weirdly enough we saw him later in the day on the campaign trail and let him know about it - so he is aware of it first hand. He said a few things I'm already aware of about conflict between national and provincial govt on the homelessness and land invasion issues, but they are slowly making progress. When we went to report it on Monday the sergeant I spoke to said they're using the reported incidents to motivate for removing the squatters, so we'll see how it goes. Sadly it's unlikely to solve the problem, just move it somewhere else.

A group 10 of us got swarmed by about 20 skollies on Strand St on Sunday morning, around 5:30. 2 phones nicked out of jersey pockets, but otherwise no damage, loss or injury. Keep your eyes open in that part of town. Numbers are clearly not a deterrent.

RC and robotics shops stock batteries that will fit. Just pop the current one out and measure it (there are many instructions on the interwebs), then find one that fits and splice it in. @phenning did it with his 130 not too long ago, a quick search will turn up the thread here.

Take the freehub off and take it to a shop, there are a few different variants.

99% sure that's not the derailleur. Far more likely to be the freehub.

There's your first problem... I also won't be able to internet you any advice unfortunately, they change their hub designs like most of us change socks. I'd be happy to have a look if you can get it to me.

I'll ask too then - what hub? Different hubs will have different solutions for the same issue. DT 350 - usually a freehub seal that's not been seated properly after a bearing replacement. Seat seal properly, problem solved. DT 370 - knackered freehub spacer. Replace spacer, problem solved. Most other hubs - missing freehub spacer. Fit spacer. Freehub drag is never a preload issue, there is no hub that has preload adjust on the freehub aside from Shimano, which requires completely stripping the freehub and adding or removing shims.

I've named it Haylett's Law - the quality of music played in public is inversely proportional to the volume. It's almost universally accurate.