Fleming

I have heard that a good ratio to start with is 2:1, ie: 32:16. I went for 32:15 because that allowed me to get away with no tensioner. I haven't actually tested this ratio yet though. Still battling to source a crank for my bike.

Just barely.

Wish I could go but a mate of mine has picked that weekend to get married. It was very inconsiderate of him, don't you think.

I have a pile of old parts lying around and seeing as everyone seems to be building Single Speed Bikes I decided to give it a try and see what all the hype is about. This is the bike I built: http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/stuartfleming/SS2.jpg http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/stuartfleming/SS3.jpg http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/stuartfleming/SS1.jpg Those of you with sharp eyes will have noticed that the bike is not 100% complete. I am missing the LH crank arm. For some reason I cant find it. Hence my post below: https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=46333&KW=crank Following are a few of the component highlights: Frame: Trek 7000 19" (2000 model) Fork: RST Omega SC (2001 model) Handle Bar: Fox DH (700mm long for extra leverage) Rear hub: Shimano XT (1995 Model, a testament to the durability of XT hubs) Gear Ratio: 32-15, No tensioner needed. Just need to find a LH crank and hit the trails.

Nice Bike! Is that a Rock Shox sticker on a Marzocchi Bomber fork? Say it isn't so.

I do the same. Hasnt failed me yet.

I dont own these hubs nor have I never seen them but have you tried removing the quick release and putting a allen key in each end of the axle? I have seen a hub many years ago that you did this to turn off the end caps. Think you needed 2 6mm allen keys.Fleming2009-03-22 10:34:26

I had considered that it could be this but its a little difficult to tell. Will try giving everything a good clean and take it from there.

I ride a 2008 GT Zaskar Expert (Aluminium frame) with a aluminium seat post and it creaks alot. A friend suggested that I grease the seatpost. Is this advisable? I have never greased the seatposts on any of my previous bikes and never had any creaking problems.

I am 1.81 and ride a large. You might get away with a medium, dpending on the brand.

Now you gonna laugh but I have my clothes hangers color coded. Red for work pants, grey for casual pants, white for work shirts, blue for casual shirts and black for jackets. Its strange but thats how I roll.

Glad to hear that its not just me then.

When I mount my tyres to my rims I take extra special care to make sure that the valve lines up with the center of the logo on the side of the tyre. A few people laugh at me for this but i think it looks good. maybe its because i am an engineer. Anyone else do this? Fleming2009-03-04 02:20:25

Wheels or suspension fork. In terms of performance advantages that you will feel these are the places to start. I would only upgrade deraillers and shifters as they wear out. If you gonna look at upgrading wheels it might be worth doing the brakes at the same time as a lot of wheels are V-brake or Disc specific.

Had this experience 2 weeks ago. I was thinking about converting to tubeless and went into 2 shops to find out prices. Shop A I walk in and a you teenager comes up to me and offers to help. I say "I'm interested in converting to tubeless. What kits have you got and how much?" The kid gets this blank look on his face and says he will have to ask his dad (shop owner). We go over to his dad and I ask the same question. and the answer I get is "The kit is R950." and then the guy just stands there looking at me. Doesn't even offer to show me the kit. I walked out of there so fast. Shop B This shop is 45 minutes out of my way but was recomended to me by a work friend. I walk in and there are 2 people working in the shop and they are both busy with customers. The one looks at me as I walk in and he says he will be with me as soon as he is free. No problem, I like browsing. When the guy is finished with the other customer he offers to help me and I tell him I am interested in converting to tubeless. The salesman asks me what rims and tyres I have and then asks where I ride. He explained to me that although a tubless conversion does work with normal tyres I should still use UST tires as I ride in very rocky area's and the risk of sidewall damage is high. He then explains to me the differences between the two kits he stocks and why the one is more expensive. We then went on to chat about bikes, trails and all things cycling related and I took up about 40 minutes of the guys time. In the end I didnt convert as it was a little more expensive than I thought it would be but which shop do you think i will be making all future purchases at, even though they are a bit further away?

AS far as I know the Recon is a air fork. The only major advantage of air forks is weight. Coil springs way a lot.

Surely if the carbon needed to "breath" everyone with a painted carbon frame would have hassles. Decals stuck on the frames would also be a prolem.

When I fit a new chain I shift into the largest chainring and smallest cassette sprocket. The two jockey wheels on the derailler should then line up vertically. ie the top one should be directly on top of the bottom one.

I like the way you roll man !!!

I want !!! Awesome ride man.

I voted the GT but thats just because I am biased and love GT's. Don't even know the specs of each bike. Seriously though, get which ever bike YOU like most. Not what we tell you to get. In the end you are gonna have to live with it.

Thats about what I was thinking.

Haha, I should have expected those kind of answers. How much in South African Rands?

A work mate of mine bought the following stuff overseas a while ago and decided not to use it. I wanna buy the stuff from him but cant decide on a price. He is too nice a guy and says "Pay me what you think its worth". I dont wanna rip him off but dont wanna overpay either. The stuff is basically brand new. FSA XC-280 HANDLEBAR http://mtb.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=141 FSA OS-150 STEM http://mtb.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?taxid=143&layout=product