Fleming

Very nice looking bike. Seems like blue white and black is becoming very popular.

Very Nice Bos. You gonna be in Knysna this december?

I bought a Maxxis tyre a few months back from CRC and there was a sticker on the packaging clearly stating that the use of Ammonia based sealants will void the warranty. Havent had hassles with it though.

I had a similar problem and in the end I fixed it by making the quick release tighter.

I assume the booster you are referring to is the arch shaped thing that mounts over the brakes on the bosses. In the old days of cantilevers I used to use one on the back and it did help but only because I had a very flexible frame. If I pulled hard on the lever I could visibly see the bosses flexing apart as the pads pressed on the rim. If you pull the lever and dont see any movement you probably dont need one. Come to think about it, I havent seen one of these things in years.

I have just bought a old aluminium MTB that I wanna spruce up with a new paint job for the frame and suspension fork. But don't really know how to go about doing this. I assume step one is to remove the old paint with paint stripper but what then? Do you need primer? Is it possible to get a durable finish using cans of spray paint covered with a few layers of clearcoat or do I need to use a compressor and proper spray gun? I don't have access to the later so if this is the right path to follow can anyone recommend someone who will do this for me in Port Elizabeth for a reasonable fee? I don't need any fancy graphics or anything, just one solid color, most probably black.

One word: Hairspray. Just spray a little on the bar and inside the grips and it slides right on. After a few hours the hairspray dries leaving a tacky layer preventing the grips from moving. To get old grips off slide something thin (like a thin screwdriver) between the grip and bars and spray a little hairspray in the gap. remove the screwdriver and the hairspray should "bleed" around the grip allowing you to slip it right off. A word of caution though. If you are using carbon bars or very thin aluminum bars you can damage them by sliding a screw driver between the grip and bar so be very, very careful. Azonics method of removing grips also works very well.

Awesome ride man. I have the same bike (mainly original parts though) and love it.

In the early to mid nineties I used to purve over those bikes. Made locally here in SA. I must admit though that one does look a bit strange.

I have never owned one but knew a few people in the old days who did and none of them complained about bob (perhaps they didnt know any better). The theory with the URT system was that because the BB is mounted onto the swing arm the suspension stiffens when standing for climbing but remains plush when seated. Like a few guys have said, in the mid nineties these bike were the stuff of legends. Everyone wanted one so they cant be that bad. If you are looking at buying one why not take it for a spin first to guage how much it bobs.

This is a pity. Been there a few times and always had great service.

If I intend re-using a outer cable I take a length of fishing line and fold it in half. I then thread both ends through the outer cable so that you have a loop of fishing line sticking out one end. Take a small piece of clean thin cloth, maybe 5x10mm and place it through the loop and pull the ends of the fishing line so that the piece of cloth is pulled through the outer. You need to experiment a bit with the size of the cloth as too big and it might not pull through the outer and too small and it doesnt collect all the dirt as you pull it through. You want a bit of resistance to ensure it wipes the entire surface clean. You can use a solvent if there really is a lot of gunk inside but I normally just use a dry cloth. I find lubricating the cables to cause more problems so I rather leave them dry. I also perform this procedure when installing new cables as alot of them seem to come with some kind of grease. I have no idea why they do this as it makes the cables really sticky.

Thanks for the advice guys. This really is a lot of effort when you running a tubeless set up but I get your point about the IDT wheel not needing to be expensive. Quite a few of you said the IDT was the best bet and no one suggested the stationary bike. Is there something wrong with the stationary bike option that I am not seeing. Surely it can be set up to mimic the riding position on my MTB giving the same effect as a IDT.

Hi Guys I enjoy riding my MTB but now that its winter I find I can only ride on the weekends and am becoming very unfit. I watch a fair amount of TV so I thought I could make double use of that time and get a IDT, Stationary Bike or Spinning Bike. Problem is I dont know which is the better option. I have looked at them and made a short list of pro's and cons. IDT Pros: Compact when not in use, Riding position is the same as real riding. Cons: Extra wear on my drive train, will need a spare wheel for my MTB with a slick tyre. Stationary Bike Pros: No need for a extra wheel. My expensive MTB drivetrain doesnt take any extra wear. Cons: Takes up space Spinning Bike I know nothing about spinning bikes so looking for some advise here. So far I am leaning towards the stationary bike but don't wanna make the wrong decision so I am looking for advise.

Camelbak.

Awesome. Where did you get the new decals. Are they available as spares?

Dont know about Kirkwood but PE is very cold with a fair amount of rain and a lot of wind during the evenings. Supposed to be clearing on Sunday but I dont trust these weather people.

I think Johan was refering to the ghetto tubeless conversion which requires a 20 inch BMX tube. 20 inch schrader tubes are available everywhere, where as 20 inch presta tubes are like hens teeth.

I have seriously considered doing this aswell. Did it on my old Trek 7000 (Year 2000 Model) and the wheels are still fine.

I would love to see a video of that working. Anyone know of any youtube links

I have used them once, all I cant say it was a pleasure. 1) There is no import tax for bike parts, you just pay 14% for vat but for clothes I think there is a 30% duty that you have to pay as well as the VAT. 2) Delivery took about 10 days. 3) Feedback and service were excellent. I emailed them to ask a question about a product and got a very detailed reply in less than 24 hours. 4) As I said, I have used them once and my stuff arrived promptly. 5) If your value is high enough you dont have to pay any shipping fees which is a bonus. Currently I think the value is around R3000-R3500. If your order is less than that, try get a few mates together and put in a group order. I am definitely planning on using them again.

Thanks Bos. Will check it out tonight at home.

Check the font wheel. Its supposed to be the same size as the back one. Looks like his feet will touch the ground as he pedals. That guy is probably fitter than I am.