Daniel J Méssem

Thought no quads / motorbikes were allowed - have seen some signs about this in places ?

not to be an ass - but must disagree 'stiffness' - the amount that either of these spoke will elastically deform is negligible, max tension in the spokes depends on the rim strength, not the spoke strength spoke strength - if we but pulled on a butted and a non butted spoke, both with the same max diameter, the butted spoke would break 1st, but the mode of failure is plastic deformation, this is not how spokes break on bicycle wheels Spoke on bicycle wheels break from fatigue fractures, usually at the elbow or thread Butted spokes are thinner in the middle of the spoke, so when stressed, the thinner part elastically deforms instead of the elbow/thread end deforming - resulting in the elbow / thread end lasting longer

what gives these rims better traction?

Hope sell the bottom cup separately - got mine from crc http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/hope-pick-n-mix-headsets-bottom-cup/rp-prod70727

Well it depends if you are looking at what it costs the manufacturer to produce 1 more of the item, or total cost. Looking at Shimano components, they are pretty cheap to produce, but the setup and R&D cost is big. A forged hub is cheap to make, but the die and forge cost a fortune. A CNC hub is much more expensive to manufacture per piece, but setup is lower (assuming that CNC time is paid for rather than buying a dedicated CNC for a specific model of hub) Probably the same for frames, R&D and jigging being a large portion of the cost vs. the material and welding/layup Would be really interested to know what the numbers look like myself...

+1 for a piece of tire / stitch rather than a normal patch - patch can stretch and buldge

Cant really go wrong with the Crests - well actually you can, they are light but also not super strong, but for the type of riding and your weight they should be fine strength wise. Would also confider tires if you are trying to save rolling weight, hubs wont make any difference in rolling weight If it were me I would also make sure that the shock was nice and firm, propedel all the way on if its got it.

Are the top and bottom brarings the same? Looking at the pics in the onone website the bottom bearing should have a 45 degree edgebon thebinside of the bottom to mate with the crown

Isnt crossed out, so I guess PICS are ok... Maybe no movies?

not know what this sign means is killing me...

it all makes sense now, bikes are not allowed to ride without riders on them!

website mentions bikeriding... http://www.gauteng.net/attractions/entry/johannesburg_botanical_gardens_and_emmarentia_dam/ "Just 6km from Johannesburg’s city centre, Emmarentia Dam and the surrounding botanical gardens provide an open space and recreational area for Joburgers and visitors alike. A popular weekend picnicking site, the park is touted as one of the best places in the city to walk your dog, jog or ride a bike."

sorry, the bikes mentioned in your question answer my question... this article explains different suspension types http://www.bikeradar...n-part-2-28438/ The type of suspension determines the linkage most of the time - which determines the shock position to some extent... but the shock position can still change depending on the exact design Looking at single pivot, the shock needs to be at a right angle (tangentalish) to the lever movement Looking at a 2 Faux bar, there are additional levers, making it possible to put the shock on the seat tube or on the top tube. As to which is best, dont really know myself, would guess that connecting the shock to different places makes sense for different bikes. The connecting point of the shock needs to support a pretty high force, meaning that the top tube would need to be made stranger for connecting there, but connecting there may also result in smaller/lighter links than it wold take to connect it to the seat tube/BB

Are you talking about bikes with single pivot suspension or all different types?

I got an rp23 because I found one on the hub at a good price, and the tuning was the same as what came on a giant with the same travel as the scott, thus the same average leverage ratio (think the tuning is med rebound, fast compression) - no idea if this turned out to be the best, since I dont have others to compare it to When I bought it I thought about attaching the remote to it somehow - but I have since removed the twinlock remote completely - I usually ride with propedal on all the time The shock obvoiusly has to be the right size, 165mm eye to eye, 51mm stroke if I remember correctly (best to check) Also have to get bushings for the fox to fit it to the bolts on the spark - cant remember the size, but they were around R200 at solomons

Replaced the Nude on mine with a Fox rp23 - night and day

time to follow through Muggins

Also interested in answers to the question... Not to hijack - but... - 3 bikes, both with identical geometry, components etc - Bike #1 has 100mm travel front and back - Bike #2 has 140mm travel front and back - Bike #3 has 160mm front, 140mm rear How much difference would there be on trails, drops, jumps, berms, FUN?

hard to comment without having a look - some pics may help if you can? do you know what headset you have in there? (not familiar with that bike myself...)

Have been building my own / friends wheels for a little while, and I recon Im pretty damn good at it Day dreaming about a new bike - and wondering if I could fund this by building wheels for people - just a thought Is there any demand for wheelbuilding? thoughts?

my 2c, prefer hanging my bike by its seat than jamming the wheel into a slot - less change of damage

Torque wrench would be a good idea... but for a new bike you probably want to check everything on the bike I like building my own bikes from the frame up - however in this case I would let the bike shop put it together for me, reason being that they will be responsible for anything that goes wrong and anything that is wrong with the components out of the box - without it being built they would not be able to test the bike properly

Cant think of a solution off hand - but if you come up with one that needs special parts machining I would be happy to help

Being a bit of a troll here - but 2k for the hornet is way chapter that getting a towbar/roofrack, and easier to fit/remove

Ok so speed services or courierIT ir DHL for under R100? Or am I missing the boat...