kennyg

Apparently not, the cam design is slightly different, which leads to a slightly different pull ratio on the 10 speed derailleur. I am open to correction, but I think thats the case.

There are a number of issues that could be encountered if you wish to change brand. It starts with the fork, check the travel matches the frame, and the steerer tube is not cut too short for your use. Check the crankset, GXP, BB30 etc. Then check the front derailure mech, its the same type or suitable for use on the new frame. The other two that may catch you out is seat tube diameter, Your brake hoses may also need to be extended to match the new frame. The rest "should" just bolt back on.

I have done Sabie on Kenda Karma 1.8 and Specialized Fast trak Lk and Specialized captain mix and a pair of nobbly nics. In the "drier side" the spec tyre combo worked well, but does not clean aas effectively, its also a little harder so is as grippy as the Nics. My suggestion, Nics front and rear. But anything that can clear, self clean will work, be sure to put a mud guard on so you see on the decents.

I did get one... 3hrs 18 mins later, paid in last night, so it should be sorted.

Luckily the fingers are crossed...we all allowed to hope. The secretary, will be on full alert...

It opens on the 1st... So will do the neccessary

Hi Guys I am looking for a partner for the ride, do mind riding the race or the Adventure, I am happy to ride at 20-21 km/h average am capable of 23-25 km/h average. So that leaves an 11 - 12hr ride time. I am JHB based, so let me know.

I had a similar issue about 2 years ago. I solved mine by wearing thinner gloves and relaxing my grip, it helps a lot and makes life a lot more comfortable. Not sure if it will work for everyone, my buddy bought a stress ball and started pushing the hell out of it, that helped him.

I just carry 3 x bombs, no tube but duct tape, plugs. Never used the duct tape on the tyres... I always ride with the correct tyre pressures, and the tubeless type tyres, yes a pair is nearly 600g more than the lighter tubeless ready tyre setup, but the time wasted in all your races with a "heavier" tyre will always be less than the time taken to repair a flat... Yes its inevitable on extreme occasions, the heavier or protection type tyre will get an unsealable hole, but hey, a long walk occasionally won't kill you..

Its Ok Ivor... You will recover from being a proud land rover owner. I drove my 110 till the mats started growing, grass, weeds all sorts, I loved that car to bits, but then it dropped me in Bots, lost an injector, dropped me again going to work, blew its radiators, and its drive couple bearings died, on a trip. The thing only had 45 000 kms It that feeling when you drive pass another Defender owner, you only wave cause you both made the same mistakes and understand the pain you experience whilst driving. Then I bought a Toyota, and have only ever had a puncture in 200 000 kms.

I ride with the Polar power meter, It a little all over the place with the only real item that is useful is the average at the end of your session. Luckily mine came on a second hand bike, the previous owner, had given up on riding, so I did not really pay for it. Lets see some of the sensitivity that is strange: There is a large delay on the thing, pedal force to reference on the guide is between 3 and 5 secs apart...as it works on averages for the given time period. certain gears, give 20 - 30 % better or worse power outputs with only a 1 % change in cadence and say 5 % change in ratio, It is still useful tho, My advice: So if you going to spend anything on the power meters srm is the best way.

well This is the advise I got... "Medium frame guys around 1.65 m to 1 .8 m. Large any one above 1.8m." I am 1.77m and have test ridden a large, it was fine, a little unweilding at times but still great. The medium was a step above the rest. On my medium I ride on the Sworks seat post in Position 9 of 10, on the large in 7 of 10. So there is not a massive difference, maybe 2 cm in height. On the Medium I ride a standard 100mm stem and the large I rode a 90, once comfortable. Both with the same bars,

Ride road then...or the shorter distances. Just my 2c

Rebound is pretty complex. Its part of a balancing acting. Your rebound will need to be set in such a way to balance the spring force your shock has got. Simply, put rebound relates to "the rate at which your fork will return to its extended/spring position". This is where it gets fun. Your suspension system is now dependant on the number of bumps, their size and their frequency. The more bumps in a unit of time the faster your rebound needs to be. This should help the shock from bottoming as the "recovery" time is quicker. Larger bumps, require slower rebound. This helps "smooth" the travel action of the shock. SO where to start, if your riding is mixed, rough and smooth... Half way. if its smooth, close your rebound slightly, this will slow it down. Rough, open her up..

CS600

Leave the Camel back at the shop. Get a double bottle system, or third on the seat post. I have one, and hate it, it keeps you too warm, and you loose mobility. Just my 2c.

Alu new, I would always take the new stuff.

Take it back once... be very nice and polite... if they continue with poor workmanship and sloppy work go back...but insist on watching them work.

Jason I have done 3 Sani's. Its great the time you getting in. Better thatn most guys out there. I ride power on a trainer. 1.5 hr 4 days a week and 3 hr and hr 2 hr on the weekends. My best advice is to climb...especially your second ride on your second day. Coming out of Umkomaas is hot and steep, although we have a new route this year its still going to be tough.

Any tyre will do providing it can clean reasonably.

Put your finger in the top. Run your nail on the inside, if there is any kind of surface deviation on it, it is terminal failure. Crack gaurantee there. But otherwise, its a great place for cracks to start.

I might just does he leave with you guys... my 60 km on the spruit to my old place in NorthCliff was in the 2:20 range.

Thanks Mark, I enjoy that ride, done it a couple times. How fast you going up the spruit? Sorry 6 am is way to late, on my way to work that time..

I am new to the Fourways area and only know of the Cycle and Fritz Pienaar club rides. Are the any rides/guys groups going out with an Allergic to tar attitude. I am looking MTB average speeds of 23 to 25 km/h. 20 km/h is also fine, better than being bike -jacked...

I been through 3 separate S-works bikes, all with the same problem. The problem is not the seat post but the clamp. Take the seat post out, pull the clamp apart, using degreaser or similar clean the cones and and the surfaces that "LOCK". Then re-torque your seat post. Then every 10km or so of your first ride re-torque, and you should be fine. My Mtbs, are bad with that, but using that method I got them all to settle down.