kennyg

I am on Egg beater SLs, killed 2 pairs of Candy's already...

My Sworks Epic, R50 000. R380 Outsurance.

I lived in Germany in a place where the highest elevation was 10m, and the only way climbing was possible was IDT. High resistance.... A spinning class... set for power was another big help. Since power is what gets you up the hill, its very easy, force by velocity is the quick and dirty. So you seem to have the cadence, just need to add resistance and keep the cadence. However, each person will have an optimal performance point, where the cadence and force on the pedal balances out, for speed and comfort.

be annoying...keep speaking to a higher manager everyday...until you talking to the guys at SCOTT..until they phone you on 3 times daily update to tell you where your frame is... It worked for me...

The is a pedestrian gate, one of those notches in the fence on the west side of the farm. Its always open, go right along the road and you end up in hills and dales...

All the cycling kit... Went to fetch my number... My buddy decided, to lock the car...and leave... Lets say he had a good race and a blood nose...

It happened to me when I first started riding. My rack bike rack came off my trailer, welds fatigued. I lost 4 bikes, however, insurance paid out and no one was too sad...

I been running Karma 1.9 Tubeless for a years, no problems, mixture of Stans and Joes in them. I have also used the smallblock 8 tubeless ready tyre for a year with no issues. Maxxis Mimo - non ust - problems, for also more than a year. Apparently in the past the Stans stuff, had ammonia in. The last bottle I bought had an ammonia free sticker on it...in Vancouver

It is on one of those simple scroll down menus, I think under options...?? I actually shouldn't post, I only set my old mans up for him last year..

https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=48139&PN=1 This is my Old frame, come have a look. The Canaan was great... XC and Marathon only... If you ride light trails, and multi days.

I worked in the motor industry, we did risk analysis on specific manufacturing faults, it is a top end manufacturer with a serious focus on their internal quality processes. Almost every car produced has a flaw of sorts( that is known, might be many more that are not known), if the customer can see or experience the problem to a high degree, under "normal" conditions, then we actually do something about the problem. Recalls, are seriously expensive and many times the manufacturers will happily replace a couple of broken parts or entire units if that is indeed the case. To put this back onto the current argument, Thomson will probably argue warranty periods, most of these new age products only have a 2 -5 year design life anyway. All we as the customer can ask is that the manufacturer does their best to prevent known problems. Otherwise we will all end up completely paranoid...of what might happpen. The second thing we ask is that if the problem is actually caused by the manufacturer that they are prepared to help in the situation. The American market has some serious liability issues, so they will cover themselves to a significant degree.

It looks like a material problem... But we know, the design, manufacture, testing loop. I have done some detailed QC work. Maybe Thompson needs to pull there aging data, on the material

My gut says its a crack. Its suspicious how a small crush zone is appearing, on the top photo 2 of the cracks are overlapping. Suggesting the start of a composite failure. It could also be a considered "flex" zone in the design and the paint is stiffer than the flex causing a similar result. Since you are East London based, I lived there for 2 years and cycle, the rough road conditions aren't helping. I have had good experience with Ominco, suggest to them they change the frame any way. Better safe than sorry.

Kenda Karmas, my tire of choice, great in the loose, mud they are respectable and clean really well. If you ride the stick e or the UST on tar a lot they wear fast due to the soft compound. My dry tyre is the small block 8. also in UST. Take the extra weight, just helps the reliability, suck tearing the side walls.

hardly ever, I used it in Sabie, climbing bout 30 kms( day 2), but I ran a softer fork to save the hands on the rough stuff... Thats the only time..I can remember, had it for 2 years now...

1. Check that the spring that pushes the pads apart is still correctly mounted in the caliper. 2. Check your disc, it may be out of line 3. Check the disc mounts are tight, if not a centre lock, Thats your best diagnosis start point...

Also keen to be involved... What about marking our own stuff, engraving etc. I had an issue with top end dirt bikes going, we marked all parts, two of the bikes were stolen weeks later... Our mechanic called us bout 3 months after the incident and noted our names and phone numbers on certain parts ... long story... our bikes were stripped of the good stuff, hot ups all sold here in SA, the rest of the bike went over the border, 1 Lesotho, 1 Moz... There are many more eyes and ears on the cycle scene, so it might be our answer...

I am 180cm tall, I ride a medium with great comfort and no special particular set up either. Depends on what you doing?

Hey I just came back from Vancouver, I was out there shopping, specifically for bike parts. I found most of their items to be in line with the prices we paying here especially on the old stuff ( 08). I just find the new stuff there 09, etc, significantly better in price 20- 50% depending on the brand. So this is an issue, but there are a number of factors to consider from the stores and importers on this side. If not, shipping, and internet sales are your friend... Look at UK price of the new Epic round 4500 pound, translates to bout R65000 thousand rand, it hard to show the R92 000 here ringing true.

Nothing for me, I ate drank and was merry, everywhere but at the finish, my partner did not eat at the finish either and has been down since Sat night...

Eggbeaters, minor shoe damage, but nothing too scary..

Boring technical person here.... You chain wear is couple to your mileage. I change my MTB chains every 1000kms, not matter. If you a heavy guy, climbing alot your chain will stretch quicker. I am 70 kg, and some of my chains are up to half a link longer after 1000kms. Cassette wear, is a given.. just swop it when the new chain does not fit the old cogs.

I ride out of Northcliff, Fairlands area...