Dude, Sorry to say... But her days are numbered... This is one of the risks of carbon frames, the paint should never crack, as it technically is not as stiff as the carbon under it. The lug is bonded into the Carbon and if I look at the crack progation, it seems as if it will become circular around the lug, and on the alu, section of the lug., it will look like a paint crack and eventually more and more movement will be experienced as is a tension crack on the non-drive side. Each pedal stroke is opening the crack. Have you ridden the frame? Was it creaking? Thanks Ken
I have two 29 ers. Ss weight is 8.5 kg and geared hard tail 8.6 kg in marathon setup. The magic with 29 er is wheel weight, get that right and you can make a magic bike.
I have a 105 drive train, had it for 4 years, bought it second hand with about 2000km on it... Have since added another 7500 km, to it with nothing more than keeping it clean and lubed. It mostly does IDT duty, and my weekly climbing ride, but gets out for a few special occasions... it still shifts well, and does show some wear.
Some of the drinks will taste different due to the chemical change in ones mouth during the ride, very few drinks "frot"in a 6hr period unless they milk based or cream based. I am a 32GI fan, came over from the USN Epic, as I could not stand the taste first off but on the bike never noticed it.
i work in the quality industry, we always know who moans about important stuff and who moans about their own personal heartaches caused by themselves. ha ha
I got arches, carbon rims and crests.... The speed of the wheels or as follows: Carbons, arches, crests The arches are not in the same league as the carbons stiffness wise, but far stiffer than the crests. I have crests on my rigid bike and they are all over the place, the arches definitely work better on the rigid, and the climbing is super noticable improvement on the arches. Crests are fine, I weigh 75kg. the do flex, they actually comfy ride on the rigid.
its ok, one day someone will realize, that there are people that actually want sports cars with towbars... Living in Germany, often, SLK, SL, Porsche, often had roof racks, some cabriolet had roof racks, that you could use, even with the top down...
whats a mud guard going to help? They always too short, never wide enough, and dont protect the drive train at all. My best proposal is, full cable outer, front and rear, go as far as possible. If you going to run a mudguard, push it as far forward as possible, so it doesnt interfere with your fork.But keeps your field of vision clear, in the slop.
ss is just under 8,5kg, the new wheels should take it to 8.0. 29er custom build. The geared bike, 8.7kg,self built Cannondale flash 29er, thats in full race mode, training wheels put her at 9.4, but its way more comfy.
Why did he take a bike with gears and poor wheel clearance? Is riding in the wet not about prep, I lived in germany for a while, if we decided we didnt ride mud, you would have 10 to 15 mtb rides a year. Some well placed duct tape is a great start. The trends are very different regarding bike setup here, we do run taller and wider tyres in general, and that makes a mess of the the rear of the bike in slop. The lack of clearance really cakes the drive, this is where 1 x drive trains are going to be very strong.
the biggest issue I have with the IDT is keeping myself occupied. I did go the power meter route, and is been interesting to watch the HR vs watt, but hell that keeps you busy for 5 mins. Then other issue I have is over heating, sitting pushing interval sprints and climbs with a small fan just does not give the cooling you get on the bike. The major benefits have been on rolling hills, a short sharp climbs, a holding a good pace in the wind on your own. So give me a bike any day. But I do find it helps bring the quality of your training sessions up, as the time lost on either side of the set is minimal. Less worry of mechanical issues, traffic conditions, the *%er in the taxi,etc.
try the polar setup, it works well on the IDT, its within 7% accurate, they say. Its easily transferable between bikes, not too useful for MTB, it works for the road. I used a power trap for two rides on a friends bike, with the polar and the averages were the same, but the power trap reacts far more quickly and the peaks are higher. I think the polar runs a 7 to 10 sec, average, between data/display points. Its the cheapest and most sensitve option.
You indeed correct... two main elements affect brake performance. 1. the coefficient of friction between the rotors, and the shoes and the size of the surface area 2. the force at which the the pads are applied to the rotor in number one the size of the pad needs to be maximzed and the material used must be as sticky as possible to create good braking in number two a serious relationship starts, between the master and the caliper. a. A large master will move the pads further but require more force on the brake lever to generate the same clamping power. b. In the second part of the second scenario a small master will push the same caliper pads a shorter distance but can generate significantly more clamping force. There are various problems created with all the scenarios and different designers have different methods to deal with heat dissipation, cleaning of wet/dirty rotors,cylinder retuns. So if you willing to mix and match your various componments make sure you apply the right mix, to get the performance you desire.
This looks like a problem with the flow coat, (a substance they spray into the mould to enhance the look of the product. If it were mechanical damage, your sticker around the valve would be far worse off than anything else. From what I know about Enve, something doesn't look right, Enve lay up using Pre-preg carbon unidirectional weave, this means that there is nothing of that colour in the wheel, which bothers me more, as flow coats are generally clear. and if scratched or sanded go milky white, not that grey colour. My advice is send your pics to ENVE US, and ask them to comment before approaching the LBS.
I deal with the SABS on a monthly basis. They are perfectly capable of doing there jobs, you just need to find the person who responsibility it is to do the job. The biggest issue facing the SABS is the CPA ( consumer protection act), unfortunately the CPA hinges on the SABS in the local retail sector if indeed a standard exists, for the item one is using. I have been to many conferences, where they punt the SABS and all the wonderful things they can do, the can even copy or create a standard with industry approval. Its not rocket science.... But as for the bike industry, the good old cheapy, will always be the good old cheapy... but its not excuse for it not to work.
I was lucky, cycled long before I met the wife. Always have, keep timing to a minimum, back in the house latest 10:30 in the morn, normally she has only been awake for a few mins. She loves the triathlons, we run together often too. When we argue about K@K, the bottom line is if I give up cycling, she has to give up TV.
I run the evo as low as 1.6 bar on the front, weigh 75kg, running on Arch or Crest rims. in the beginning the side walls used to sweat, after a top up no more issues.
Done 18 midmars... pretty much a good swim, the coldest was a 20 deg water temp. Normally its around 24, any warmer and the dam smells like its too warm.
I battled like crazy when I first moved to the 29er, with knee pain. It was the identical bike to the 26inch version. I then bought a single speed ( also 29er), it was ordered before the injury occured. It too was identical geometry to the other bikes, I found that I could ride the SS without pain on the rides without large amounts of steep climbing. I then actively started riding bigger cogs and the back and found the pain to disappear a few rides later.(increased cadence) I found that combining with some extra stretching and hamstring exercises, lead to a significant increase in power, plus no pain issues now.
