RobertWhitehead

Thanks for clearing that up, now I can put it back into the cupboard 👍

I have one for you, I am not going to use it

I have one in my cupboard which I got bullied into buying (joke) and it is still in its packaging (I am not sure that I will ever use it on my trainer ). So you're welcome to buy it from me 😁. (Sorry Evo if he hasn't bought one yet)

@Bicycle Yard Zarras WESTERN CAPE

RED - as it is going to hurt

It is possible that the cable hosing is a bit too short and therefore it is causing some problems. But ya, the cable tension is not correct. I can provide some assistance if you want to take a drive to PTA 😁

This will also help: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp

On the Delmas road, I posted the route in this tread:

I can make a public offer: I currently have a S x GT HT (now remember - a GT has a longer top tube) My feeling is that it will work for you. So here's my offer: Pop through from Jhb and come and spend some time with me, I will take you to a place like Rosemary or Cowhouse. You can then test the GT the whole day 😁. Come to think of it, I currently have a 650B Small Momsen frame and all the parts to make a decent build as well. If you want I can assemble that one as well

700x25 refers to a road bike wheel size and it is the same size as a 29er MTB wheel. The 25 is the width of the tire. Yes, most training tires will fit onto the those rims. Then yes, what you're planning on doing is probably the best and less frustrating option in the long run. I have stopped cycling outdoors completely because it is just so much easier on the IDT with a new born in the house

You can start to chat with anyone on WA through True Caller as well. If you enter the cell number on TC it gives you the option to send a message as well

My opinion: you may be able to do it but I am not sure what the longer term structural implications may be.

Nope, ride with what you're comfortable with and don't be too fussed about the time. I doubt that you will see a massive benefit (I.e. more than 30min) on the overall time if you switch.

Short answer: Quite a lot 😁

You know what I think the problem is, two or possibly even three fold. really: Some mechs working at bike shops, not all of them, are just there for the pay cheque, they've never really cycled as a past time / hobby and have no regard for other peoples safety. To them it is just that - work. So if someone brings in a bike the goal is to get it out the door ASAP. This is a cultural thing. They do not have the technical knowledge to understand the impact of a half ass job. I mean just imagine you take your bike in for a major service and a part comes off at high speed. Who's going to take responsibility for those expenses / pain caused to the user? If you only have a hammer in your toolbox then everything becomes a nail 😁.

The bike or let me say the one pic of the FD doesn't look too old. I mean being a bike mech at a lbs you can't just be a "spare part fitter". Surely if his bike is younger than 10 years then a bike shop does not have an excuse.

Does it matter? The way I see it: If I leave home at 06:00 and return at 11:00 then my riding time was 5 hours regardless of the amount of time I spent physically pedalling the bike.

Yes, I do have lots of spares but I have a question: which bike shops did you use? That FD is so high it could almost be confused for the bottle cage holder .

I will be able to take a look for you if you want.

Of the options given the Trek is best. I can also build you a bike. I do have all the parts needed.

Shap let's chat 👍

I have all of what you need - Shimano or SRAM?

Weird, saw something now: - BOOST. Is this a boost frame? I suck when it comes to Boost vs non-boost

Between 18-22k easily. My suggestion: Always be open to negotiation and never take it personally if someone makes you an offer. At least they were willing to make an offer. You do not have to accept it though 😁. It is a decent build and you could even push your luck and go slightly higher but then you may end up scaring people off and making contact with you. But also: The listing price should not be lower than what it cost you to get to that point

I am also slightly confused, so bear with me real quick, I tend to dumb things down quite a bit to get onto the same page, the word shaffing is tripping me up. I am struggling to grasp what you mean with the picture. So I took yours and added my scribbles 😁. Point 1: This I can see the chain does not sit properly Point 2: Is this what you mean by Shaffing? So if I understand this word correctly the chain rubs onto the cog higher than the one it currently runs on? Point 3: Does the pulley wheel rub or catch onto the cassette when going up to the 51T? So that's my questions based on your picture. My next questions based on my vast knowledge and yoda status (🤮🙈 - I am only joking - where's the Italic font) What does the guide arm of the rear mech look like when in the highest gear? If shaffing is what I understand it to be then your indexing is incorrect. Solution to your issue: Remove 2 links from the chain and adjust your B screw inwards -probably 1/2 a turn will be good (the one sitting at the top of the rear mech facing towards the hanger). The result will be that the rear mech will run closer to the cassette resulting in the chain engaging more teeth on the cassette. But a word of caution: This is not what the rear mech should look like: