RobertWhitehead

Ok, so here's my 2 cents: You have a no name brand frame so this is the same as polishing a turD ????. Are all the parts interchangeable on your no name frame to any other? Yip, they are. Your main sticking point will be the QR on both the fork and frame. This will cause you to not be able to upgrade to a decent fork (quickly - you do get decent QR forks but they're not as readily available) So my suggestion: Start to upgrade the bike systematically i.e. upgrade the drive train, rear mech, cassette, shifter, chain ring. Then ride the bike for another month or two. Then swop the fork for something with a thru axle but then remember that you'll have to change the wheels as well to accommodate. Now you'll notice that the rear will remain QR to fit the frame, this will be easy enough to get. Then lastly wait for a decent frame and then carry all these parts over to the new frame. Now you have a whole new bike which you bought / upgraded over time. I must warn you though: This can be a more expensive option and it does come with some additional risk, you may end up buying the wrong part or the part may be in bad shape It is not an instant solution to your problem, this takes time to achieve. But there's definite benefits to this approach: You only buy a part when and if you can afford to do so. Once you're done upgrading the bike it will be exactly the way you want it and there will not be something rubbish on the bike - unless you're still looking to upgrade that particular part. You do not have to have a massive outlay of cash to get into the game, you already have a bike so it doesn't matter how long it takes to upgrade it ????. I build bikes as a "side hustle" and will gladly help you to get down the road.

Can I send a courier to collect ????

I'm in as well. I am very sorry to hear the news Cois

Yes I have a couple ????

Nothing wrong with what you went with in the end. Funny story: I had 1x11 and somewhere somehow I lost a gear (the wheel and bike went to two different places for some maintenance and someone may or may not have pinched it). I thought I had 11 gears and went and did the Baviaans without any issues on my 11 speed cassette, which turned out to only be a 10 . So the moral of the story: you'll be just fine on the 11/46T 10 speed. PS: my cassette had over 5000km on it and I upgraded to a 12 speed directly after the Baviaans so no harm no fowl ????

Is it still available? ????

Sure thing, no worries ????

You can have it, I do not want money for it ????

I have one that fixes to the down tube if you want to try it out

I believe that I have a set.

That's exactly what I told my friend as well. I actually suggested using an aluminum plate on the inside over the break along with some Epoxy ????

Fantastic, thank you very much. I will gladly take it off your hands.

Does anyone have a busted up right hand side Campag super record STI lever as per the kiekie? My friend broke his last night It doesn't have to be busted up it can be a replacement as well. It's a 10 speed

I think it needs to become the "main set" ????

If I have a look at the mechanics of hydraulic brakes (I have added a schematic to try and explain my thoughts): On both the caliper as well as lever you have seals. Now if you pull the lever and there's no movement on the caliper then you have a leak at either the lever side or the caliper side. Fluid is pushing over the seals and my money is on the lever side rather than the caliper 2017-2019-guide-rs-and-r-service-manual.pdf

You may need to replace the seals on the levers. I know the seal kits are quite expensive (and stock may still be an issue) but it does sort out the issue.

Annette at cycledelic will be able to help

How bout some Helicoils? I am sure that it will work.

Screw the pedal in from the other side, the thread of the pedal is harder than the crank arm and will retap it. I know people will bash me for this advice but it really does work ????. PS: I do have an XT crank with a stuck pedal in the drive side which you can have

My two cents: don't worry about 12 speed and go for 11. You can get a 11/50T cassette for the back if you really want the range. The other thing is that you will need a 104BCD NW chainring and not a 96BCD. You can confirm by measuring the diagonal bolt spacing but I am almost 100% convinced that a 3x crank will be 104. Then: the crank you currently have on the bike is a square taper crank which adds quite a bit of weight. I would also replace that with a hollowtech Shimano with a threaded BB, it will fit

If you bleed the brakes properly 2 piston pots are just as strong and effective

I was wondering recently: does one get different BB sizes for road bikes as commonly as for mountain bikes as well? Like is something like a BB30 available in all the Shimano ranges for road bikes or does the BB30 only come on certain models.

Done! I can not imagine the stress and crap you are going through, you should not need to worry about money on top of everything else as well

I also used to ride back on the left but the hose started rubbing the frame so I switched it round the other way. You can just swop the hoses at the lever

Fantastic, thank you very much. I will do so. I don't mind arranging the courier ????