RobertWhitehead

Thank you guys, you really made me realize that it is going to become an issue down the line if I make a 69er and he wants to upgrade and replace parts and and and. I think I am going to stick with a 26er

The only place I could imagine where that roadie cracked his frame on the trainer would have been where the frame fixed to the trainer and it wasn't fixed / fitted properly. Other than that I doubt that there's massive forces at play. I mean the only parts which are taking a beating on a trainer is: Drivetrain i.e. Chain, shifter (to a lesser extent), shifter cable, crank, BB, chain ring, cassette. And or the rear wheel if you have a wheel mount. I have been using my 26er on the trainer since 2013 and I get way more kays out of the stuff than outdoors

I recently acquired a 26er carbon dual mtb frame with a tapered headset. I also just need to note that this bike will be going to a friend who's just starting off. He currently rides a 26er dual but this one is a bit too small for him. So based on this I need some suggestions please. The tapered headset is opening a whole world of possibilities for the build and this is where I would like to hear what your opinions are: Keep this frame a standard 26er and maybe increase the travel up front. Make a mullet with a 650B in the front and a chunky 26er (whatever the frame can handle in the rear). Just note the frame wont take a 650B in the rear. Make it a 69er - Business in the front and party in the rear 😁. Your valued input and banter will be much appreciated. I may not use your opinion but you never know

Refund has been completed. Sometimes my day job actually has to take president over the dealings on the hub

It spanned over a few months because we had multiple discussions about multiple wheel sets. This wasn't a once off thing where I said: here's one set and that's it. This was a scenario about 3 options over a space of time whereby the buyer had free Reign to choose any of the wheels I had lying here. I even have a set of brand new "new old stock" which the buyer did not want as they were not "quality enough". I did not give a price and said take it or leave it, I said: make me an offer, I would have taken R200 as well, I was not phased about the sale, I was more phased about helping you out to get the build done, I would have given them to you for just the shipping price (which I have done on multiple occasions as well). When it comes to principal it applies to me as well. I don't care about the wheels and or the money "over-spent" on shipping, I care about the fact that I have to defend myself over half truths and bended statements. Was that why I stopped communicating over WA, of course yes. Why would I carry on sending stock and try to rectify something if I know full well that it will never be enough. Hence why I said, I have no issue about giving a refund, I have no issue with taking them back, fixing the problem and donating them to someone who will be more than grateful to receive them.

I do not have a problem paying for the courier, I accepted that, paid it and moved on. I have already said that I will pay his money back. I do not have an issue with that either. What I am not going to do is to send him replacement parts for wheels which was in a working condition when I sent them. He can send me a dm with his banking details then I will refund him his money.

So send them back then, I will refund you your money - telling me I lied is a stretch and telling me that its obvious the wheels are damaged when they are still in better condition than most 2021 wheel sets are also a joke. I do not understand what you're trying to achieve as you're clearly not getting your way by trying to lure me out with a thread about R200. You need wheels, I sent you wheels you complained about the condition, I then tried to help by sending you pictures of the items I had, you then stated that this bolt was too big and that axle was massive and then said: come on you MUST have something in your spares. I was doing you a favor as I knew getting stock was going to be almost impossible. So now you still have no wheels for your commuter and you have alienated the only person who was in a position to help you out. "Cutting off your nose to spite your face comes to mind" So send me your banking details so that I can refund you for the wheels which are still in perfect working condition.

Measure the diagonal bolt distance. Chances are it is a 104 PCD but just measure to confirm.

So ya sure, I admitted the wheels to be smooth and I also admitted that they were running true and without any visible defects. Did I strip them down and gave them a proper service? For R600, and then I had to pay the R400 for shipping because I made a mistake in assuming that everything under 5kg was R99 nope, why would I do that? Did I ask for more money to the OP because of my mistake? No, I sucked it up and paid for it. Do I have stock of exactly what he needs, yes I do. Am I going to send the OP replacement parts? Hell no, he expects me to replace the worn parts on wheels that are well over 20 years in age. Those pitting marks are not due to over tightening, those pitting marks are due to wear and tear as the cones rub against the metal bearings, you need to be the hulk to over tighten so that it causes that damage. The bottom line is that the wheels are operational, they are in very good condition - (do us a favor Al and post some kiekies of the condition of the wheels as well) they have no cosmetic damage and or major dings on the exterior and those cones still function as I spun them prior to sending them. Are they rough? Possibly, did I tell myself that because those V-brake wheels had been hanging in a garage for more than 10 years and that they were probably in need of some lubrication, most probably. Will they explode or seize up if he uses them as is? No they wont Yes I stopped replying and I stopped entertaining his virtual rummaging requests (I send him photos of axles with cones, he comments if they were the ones he needed and I had to carry on rummaging).

I have done it in the past on an older Fox and it does work 👍

Locktite, this video shows which locktite to use: There's a company in Jhb that stock it, it is quite pricey

I am confused, but ok, that doesn't take much . If you're the seller and looking to sell a bike via the Hub and the person on the other side of the call tells you from where he / she is calling or what their handle is then there's no harm to view their profile and take the time to read their ratings from previous customers. I can't recall the number of positive ratings they have but surely that's proof enough that they genuinely just want to buy your bike. You should consider yourself lucky having so much interest in your bike straight off the bat. It's not always the case

How far along was the chain when you replaced it? If this is the gear in which you ride most of the time then it is possible for it to be worn. As mentioned by Jbr, put the old chain back and if it doesn't slip then ride it like that until more gears start to slip. If you put the old chain back and it does the same then you may (but very unlikely) have another issue.

That gear is worn

Update: EL just contacted me to resolve my current light issue or to trade it on another, better one. See, as mentioned, their service is great and they do take care of their clients. Big Up Pieter.

My 2c regarding this topic: I have quite a few lights, Over the years I have bought a Xeccon (1800 Lumen) and then an Extreme Lights (1000 Lumen) and then recently another 1000 Lumen which I cant recall the name (I gave it away). My opinion about the various lights: The 1000 Lumen from EL has quite a narrow beam - I have also used this light on the Baviaans and felt a bit uneasy going down the other side of the never-ender with said light. I wanted more prereferral light even though this light was on full blast. I originally bought this light in 2015 and still have it. The original light blew on the first Baviaans back in 2015 and had to be replaced during the race. (they did not have stock so I had to pull the plug at CP#4). Their after sale service is really good and the replacement light was delivered to my office a week later (free of charge). Currently this light / battery combo is giving some more issues - the battery cable is making a short but I have not bothered to send it in. I will do so before this years Baviaans The Xeccon - This light I refer to as "The Sun". This thing is extremely bright and I really like it. I bought this back in 2013 and I still have it. Even if I only use the center light it is still brighter and has a wider beam than the EL. In fact, there's currently one for sale: Xeccon light | Bike Hub The batteries however (I have two), are starting to give issues (which is understandable, considering the age). The one drawback about this light is that it's batteries only lasts 02h23 on full blast (hence why I bought two batteries). Then the last one I had (which I gave away) was fine, I think I paid like R300 for it so it was just as a back up. The battery on it is lower quality if you look at the pouch but it did the job. For the back I have a Ryder light with a white and red strobe or red / white on its own. This little thing is damn bright. During the Baviaans in 2019 my EL started giving issues (the battery as mentioned earlier) and I had to use this little thing for the last 5km and I could see 😁

I have to agree, to a certain extent. I did not send the same reply straight off the bat because everyone's requirements are different. I mean I may need R150 000.00 pm to pay my bills and to eat (just an example, not true by any means of the imagination) where the next guy still lives with his parents and does not have car and bond payments and only needs R5000 pm to survive. Yes, the margins are tight and you may end up only making 10-15% per item but the main thing here is that this is Brits and there's not many other guys out that way that offer quality service (according to the OP). I mean if we have a look at my example of R5k needed and we take a strip down and re-build or major service and say the labor comes in at R650 then it means he only needs to have 8 clients per month.

My opinion: Ride the MTB on race day. It is not always about the speed but more about what's comfortable. It doesn't help if you have thin wheels but can't climb up the hills.

Don't do it. You're going to put yourself under pressure to be able to pay the rent and because you want to make it mobile may end up being on the road most days. Rather use the garage or get a Wendy / pre-fab house in the yard at home. One less thing to worry about (rent / leaving the shop unattended)

Brits is not that far from PTA (relatively speaking) so I will be keen to help you out to get started. I am not sure what my offer entails (yet) but I mean I do have a bit of a network and some tools and some spares.

IMO - networking will be your best bet to be able to source parts at an affordable price. The main thing is that you'll be relying heavily on

Its a black one

I am confused, should it be 35mm bar or steerer clamp? I have this one with a 35mm something steerer clamp with a 31.6mm bar clamp

Does it need to be 35mm on both the bar and steerer side?

I use Ergon's, have been for about 4-5 years now. The fixing bolt is just rubbish 😁