dave303e

I would love to know which landowner said to an organiser - yes, please let a few hundred people just throw their trash out on my verge this weekend as long as it is in one spot.

Honestly, litter zone or not. You have to be real special to think throwing a wrapper onto the side of the road in a world heritage site is a viable option. It can go into your pocket till you find a bin, not rocket science. Nothing to do with the organisers, just the actual human beings on the bicycles. How much of an inconvenience is carrying a 5gram wrapper to the bin at the water point or finish line?

We have in essence 4 DB's on our system. 1 in the kragstasie shed. From there the power goes to a DB in the garage/office building. From there the house and the cottage are fed. Just add a breaker switch in your db and feed from yours to the neighbour. They will need a full on changeover switch though and a split DB. Most farm houses are 3 phase because a lot of the older borehole pumps were 3 phases and when you are getting from eskom direct they usually supply 3 phase to farms. But remember pretty much every major suburb was a farm so in most suburbs there is an orginial farm house which is usually old and often still on 3 phase. It is really not a big one to sort though. Usually they will split it that each phase runs a different system as a single phase system except for the odd 3 phase thing. We had lights on 1 phase, plugs on another phase and then stove/fridges on the third phase. But it was all single phase stuff so the DB just needed to be rewired. We took out the 3phase borehole pump and put a nice small single phase one in. I miss the 3 phase plug for running a bigger welder that is literally it, and the inverter welder is more pleasant to use anyway. Still saving for a petrol welder. Interestingly though, 3 phase invertors are really not badly priced and you usually get a much bigger inverter. There is a 12kw 3 phase blue mountain which is only 10k more expensive than an 8kw deye. I have also seen it where 3 single phase inverters are used in parallel as 3 phase. I have been doing the math on seeing if I can get our dairy 100% off grid. The bigger you go the R/kw and R/kwh drops and the 3 phase stuff is often more readily available. I looked at it the other day and to have a big 3 phase inverter and a monster battery and major panels but have it shared between 3 houses(each with a phase) would actually work out cheaper. re the cable- 32mm low grade hdpe pipe over the armored cable is a good idea. You can use it as a conduit so you can pull extra cables through easily and keep them waterproof if running underground. The lower grades are also dirt cheap. We run all our longer armored cables through them just for extra protection- the one borehole which has a 2,75kw pump is about 300m out in a field that has heavy cow traffic. Small plastic bag tied to a roll of bailing twine and then you just use a vacuum cleaner to pull the bag through leaving the twine as a draw wire. Then the bailing twine to pull the cable through.

you can definitely jack spanner a press of sorts to sort it out. If you are not comfortable most engineering shops can make something up or configure their press to sot you out. I have pressed a few rear Enduro/MX bike axles out with various things like pipe clamps, bottle jacks and scrap metal welded together to cradle it. I have a light coat of belray waterproof grease on mine. Also means when washing there is less change of water getting in there as well. usually the case, especially if it is an aluminum through axle onto a steel bearing race. Galvanic corrosion.

so I have been thinking about this a lot... I also ended up down a rabbit hole of bitcoin mining. If one of the more expensive parts(other than the rig) is power- with most setups we have a few extra kw to run a mining rig for 6-8hours a day. The business case isn't quite clear though but at this stage it looks like it could potentially be more viable financial supplement than selling back to the grid.

it would be lovely to get a tax break on it...

ya like I said it is flat here. I have a32,34 and 36 to rotate through. Just pick and choose depending on where I ride. But a 38 would be manageable for majority of my riding in and around gp and home.

honestly, I did a 160km ride the other day which came to within 5km of our farm and 36 was too short in terms of gearing. Think we had 1700m gain in 160km. It's so flat here you can watch the dog run away from home for 3 days...

Guarantee the first time you go ride and have it with you there will be some oke in the riding group asking if anyone has some chain lube for him. He will then proceed to dump way too much on his chain and fling it all over the floor...

also note this is all broadly protected by their fair usage policy before you go getting arrested for reward scheme fraud.

You can decode a fit file. Adjust it and upload. You can also export as a gpx , adjust the device in the gpx with a text editor and upload into garmin. You can also parse a fit into a gpx and then adjust the device in a text editor. Targets could be very easy to hit when you realise you can find and replace the date in an activity. tcx files are even easier to manipulate. Financial reward system based off of easy to manipulate data is dangerous. Strava KOM's are also worth nothing anymore. Hell there has even been an e-sports ban for digital doping so you know how easy this data is to work with. digitalEPO will do the above for you. But you didn't hear that all from me...

No, but I wait till after lunch to run the dishwasher at the highest temp setting so those glasses shine. I also tend to run portable aircon when it is hot and sunny. Our setup is in the gym, so on hot days I point the gym fan at the invertor and turn it on full blast. Usually if it is hot we have plenty excess for the fan. We also have a good few windows designed with the prevailing winds so we can get a good cross breeze through there.

Our company has had the head offices evacuated multiple times the last few weeks with generator overheating and tripping fire alarms. Fire Ops response was impressive.

I have run 1x10, 1x11 and 1x12(both cable and AXS) 1x10 was a hack at best, I was always geared too short or too long. 1x11 - I Had Shimano XT with a sunrace 11-46 cassette which served me well for many years. I did then go to an 11- 51 which was even better. This Shimano derailleur is now working with a cheap 11 speed road cassette on the trainer. Still shifting flawless. Then I was on Sram GX 1x12 and it was pretty flawless for the 2000km I did on the bike before selling it. New bike has GX AXS 1 x 12. It is an amazing ride, shifts so well and crisp and is so consistent and the 10-52 gives lovely range. Bang for buck - Shimano 11 speed with an 11-51 is a good option IMO. Sunrace cassettes made it a lot more affordable as well and fitted my hub that had 2x10 set up. Budget out the window GX Eagle AXS just gives you a little extra range and a great shifting experience.

Honestly, this is another major issue with c....p journalism. No where does it say who the firearm is registered to. It says he gave her the gun. If he gave her the gun and it is registered to her then the background checks would have been done on her. If he gave her the gun and it is still registered in his name. Then he will likely be in trouble because a gun registered to him was involved with a homicide which makes him somewhat liable, unless he reported it as stolen in which case he is still in trouble. USA has different gun laws in the various states. So saying American gun laws are F....d Up is also a bit open ended. Because in California or Florida it is actually very different to say Nevada or Texas. But all have basic background checks and their own nuances. Florida you can't conceal carry for example, California you can't put a 30 round mag in your Glock, Texas you can put a 100 round drum in your Glock. There are lots of differences so it is not worth labelling them all the same. As for gifting a gun. My wife has her competency certificate. This involves background checks and letters or recommendation and a bunch of admin and both legal and practical exams and training. I can legally give her my gun to protect herself when I am out of town. She is a competent person who knows the laws and can handle the gun. I can buy her a gun and she can get it licensed in her name as well. I see no issue. Take and Oupa giving his grandchild a family heirloom gun to learn to shoot with. Or giving your child a shotgun for sport shooting. Gifting and giving guns is more common than you believe but there are legalities and admin around it. They work similar but while it is partly for stopping power it is also for safety of people around the shooting. A hollow point mushrooms but stays 1 piece. Means that it gets a larger surface area but has significant weight/momentum. A bullet that splinters like theirs means more surface are and less weight in each part so it has less momentum and even less penetration. Yes whatever gets hit will have more energy put into it with both but neither bullet will go through and out the other side with significant energy. So whatever energy that bullet has gets transferred to the target. This does cause more damage to whatever get's hit in the form of superior cavitation in a hollo point. Or in multiple bullet channels with cavitation on each. But beyond the target it is far safer. For the context of safety however they are both safer for similar reasons. In a place like America or in a public area they are safer for all around the incident. If the bullet mushrooms and doesn't penetrate and come out the other side then if you hit your target, anyone behind the target is safe. Remember international gun safety rule number 4- always know your target and what is beyond it. So in a public place someone behind a public shooter or shooter's target is at less risk. If you hit the target: 1 he will likely drop and threat is eradicated and 2 the bullet won't go through and into someone standing 50m behind the target. Remember you are responsible for your bullet until it comes to rest. This is big for police and working in public areas. If your shots are on target then background people are safer because even if it does go right through, it will be so slow it will not be anywhere near as dangerous. As per American context - Drywall houses. Here if you shoot someone in the house or miss. it will likely land in a brick wall. There if you let loose in the house- you better hope it doesn't go through the perpetrator, through the wall and into a family member. If there is a shooting here in the street, you duck behind a brick wall and you are pretty safe. There you may as well not duck if it is just some cladding and drywall between you and the shooting. So a mushroom bullet or splintering bullet won't penetrate as well. So drywall then offers a little more protection and safety again for those around the shooting. This is also why a lot will not recommend an AR15 in 5.56 for self defense. Because that bullet will not stop at close range in a house. A shotgun with a slug can kill someone 2 rooms away but birdshot will not penetrate the wall. So ya, lot's of considerations to be made.

Once you buy a proper running vest your will never go back to a camelback or old school pack.

I have a friend, just finished building a R3-4m house in a fancy wildlife eco estate. Solar was an after thought though. His roof pitches are complex with lots of like square domes and then the pitch is shallow by the wall and kicks up steeper to the center. Needless to say he does not have mote than 4 panels on a single roof area. They are split up all over the place and then a long stretch of cable through to the inverter in the garage which is like semi detached from the house. This is a brand new building, they moved into in October. Older houses it is just luck of the draw and they would never have known. As for the plot shape, I reckon it is a factor that could kill a deal for me, if there was not a good opportunity to put up solar I would find another stand that would allow a house to be orientated correctly. As someone mentioned earlier, a well orientated house will be a lot warmer in GP winters as well. With our panels being true north at the angle the installer asked for we get our first watts around 5:20 and our last ones around 18:40 at the moment. Makes a huge difference. On another note after our full first month of grid we had a few things pop up. Within the first week we noticed the fridge was freezing the veggies so we turned it down a bit every week until we couldn't anymore. Turns out the thermostat had blown and the load shedding was acting as the thermostat for heaven knows how long. I changed that and in the process I realised the freezer(20+ years old) had the same issue but it is a bit trickier to spot when it is getting too cold. Anyway new freezer with invertor compressor and fridge with working thermostat and we are on average 10-15% higher battery % in the mornings now. It is quite remarkable what an impact it has. In the process we also discovered Defy does a hybrid solar fridge/freezer and a solar chest freezer. So for ±R7k you can get a chest freezer that comes with 3 panels. It runs of the panels all day and external power source only for the night. It is a good first dip into load shedding solutions. It means your freezer is good for longer power cuts and is not affected by daytime load shedding and IMO is very affordable. Just even as an option to reduce an electricity bill it is a good idea. We went with a very energy efficient freezer because our setup was specced on the old freezer already but it is also very crucial to check what you buy when replacing appliances. Some of them are shockingly bad with energy.

I just hope like hell someone is kicking architects when they don't adjust rooflines for solar optimization...

looks good, I am sure you are going to be very happy with it

The beauty with a cavity and ply is that they an really do it neatly and they can work really fast just screwing conduits into the ply etc. This was just as they finished, hence the mess on the floor before they even had time to clean up.

awesome, just a quick one. I take it they will bolt the invertor onto the ply and then attach the ply to the blocking/wall or that you will put T-nuts in the ply. Ours is also mounted on ply and battery and inverter were bolted in with 10mm bolts through the ply with a nut and washer on the back. Also check the installer brings the bolts, ours rocked up with standard expansion bolts but luckily I had normal bolts and big washers for the back side.

if you go to bike addict's page they have a list of different bicycle finance companies they use as well as calculators etc.

This as well Ya our set up has so many fuses and breakers it is ridiculous

This. Also note I was nervous about the safety shutoff based on SOC and not damaging the battery on my setup, so I adjusted the safety shutoff to kill the system when the battery hits 50% and it worked and killed the system. So that is also worth knowing works well on proper inverters. I have since set it back to what the battery recommends but if you are going to run lead acid or gel batteries, a better inverter will save your batteries.