levett

1.75m 172.5mm - Road 175mm - MTB

+2 - Maybe I'll replace my Scandal!!!

My Son had a Giant MTX250 (I think) 24" MTB with V Brakes and, yes, it weighed a ton! I built him a 26" wheeler with my 'cast off's' and a 14" MTB frame that I bought from CRC for about R400 to R500. The most 'difficult' part is getting cheep'ish 165mm cranks! Build your own is the way to go - you learn a lot, can get a lot of 2nd hand bits off here, and build a decent (spec and weight) bike for a reasonable price (oh and it gives you the excuse to buy new stuff for yours so that you can 'cascade')

Contact Johan Bornman (he's in Jo'burg) - I believe that he has a stock (depending on the size you require), and am sure that he could post to you. Cheers, Dave.

As BikeMonster said, the important bit it to 'Make it the same number of links' - which will not be exactly the same length (the 'variance' will depend on how worn your old chain was) - this also assumes that your old chain was the correct length!

I'll take a ticket - please PM me with Bank Details. Have you thought of that 'sponsor a buddy' thing where you can go on line and sponsor people via your credit card? I thin comeone did it for CHOC at the 94.7 last year - just a thought (I'm lazy) - you might get more people if it's 'easier' to donate.

I believe Solomons in Woodmead (JHB) also stock - not sure of the price though

If you're on 9-Speed Shimsano, you can use any MTB Shifters (say R250 - Micro-Shift or Deore), R250 for some Bars, R250 if you need a different length Stem, and any old MTB Brake Levers - so, say R1k for the conversion - and then sell the STI's! So pretty much 'cost neutral' It's more expensive if you're on 10-Speed! Shimano make 'special 10-Speed Trigger Shifters and Brake Levers (check out CRC) R770 Shifters (around R1,100) FDR770 or 773 (around R400) R770 Brake Levers (around R300) So around R1,800 for 10-Speed Conversion

I do use MTB Pedals on my Road Bike (same thought process - consistant interface), and you'd be amazed how many people do! I reckon that, at the Satellite Challenge, 50% of the riders had either flat pedals, toe clips, or MTB SPD-type pedals! (by the way, for you guys that did the Satellite Challenge, did you notice the %age of people on MTB's with slicks!).

Hi Mampara - I'm thinking of a facility that would be for 'everyone' (I know you can't please all of the people all of the time), but something that kids could go to , and something that has a bit more 'adventurous' stuff as well. Basically something (like MTN or Teaks) that families could use, but that has enough so that people wouldn't go a couple of times, and get bored. I guess 'bums on seats principle' - something for the 'middle ground'. I'm guessing (and it's only a guess) that the MTN park is, in total (both sides of the road), around 50 Acres (and, at the other extreme, Northern Farm is form the website 2500ha (6,000+ Acres)- though only a small proportion is dedicated to MTB.

How many acres do you need to make a decent MTB Park? I know this is an open ended question, and is very much like 'how long is a piece of string', but I'm thinking that I'd like to buy some land overseas, and set up a MTB Park - since I enjoy the ones here in Gauteng. I could get the map out, and try to calculate the size of: - The Toyota MTN Park - Northern Farm - Teak Place - + others But they are so 'variable' - I guess that the MTN Park for an 'urban park' is the smallest that you can get away with, and Northern Farm is way bigger than you 'need' (since it's a working farm as well). Obviously it is also dependant on the terain - it needs to be big enough to get some 'variation' in - it's not going to be much fun riding round and round a piece of flat land! Any thoughts - especially form anyone that has done anything towards building such a facility would be very interesting. Cheers, Dave.

This is the combination I used (1.3" on the front, and 1.6" on the back) - very low rolling resistance - as someone said, pump them up to the maximum! You will need 26" Touring Tubes (as opposed to 26" MTB) The only issue is that slicks lower your gearing a bit (a 26" MTB is already prettly low geared for the road), so you're going to 'spin out' at just over 40kph

I have wondered the same thing myself, and there are a couple of threads on here about the subject. For us 'fun riders', I think 'Flat Bars' are a very good idea - ask yourself how often you use the drops! The problem used to be (with Shimano 10-Speed Road Bikes) the cost of the 10-Speed flat bar shifters! Now, with the advent of 10-Speed MTB Groupsets, it must be possible and cheaper (though someone needs to do a trail to see if the MTB 10-Speed Shifters work with 10-Speed road derailleurs). From a 'comfort' point of vies, I think it's a good idear for the people who will never be 'race snakes'

I believe him guilty (and perhaps stupid for not 'checking') and, hopefully, he will not get 'special treatment' if he is found guilty. The sport will be tainted if they find some 'technicality' to get him off the hook!

Not for me - I ride a motorbike, and deliberately have my bicylce brakes with the rear on the right, and the front on the left!

Oh, and some disc brake levers can not simply be 'swapped over' (some can though) - they are bought either: - front left or - front right and - front right or - front left You can 'swap the hoses' over, but that requires (probably) new olives (seals) and for the brakes to be bled - i.e. it's not as easy to 'trial' as it was with V brakes! (though in every other way, disc brakes are bitter - my opinion!)

As everyone say's - personal preference! I, personally have front on the left, and rear on the right - left = front derailleur and front brake, right = rear derailleur and rear brake (oh and I'm left handed) - this is even though I also ride a motorbike (which has the front brake on the right, and the clutch on the left). Not relevant to SA, but this is the legal position in the UK: Convention in the UK is to operate rear brake with left hand, and front brake with right hand. In Europe, and in the US, it's the other way round! So, bikes made for the UK have to be rigged up for our way of doing things. Bicycle retailers have to fit brakes as per the quality standard BS6102 - a legal requirement - and this requires British bikes to be displayed with brakes operated left-hand for rear brake; right hand for front brake. Once the customer owns the bike, he or she could change the brakes around, or could request the bike shop to do so. UK bike journalists who go to trade shows to test bikes have a lot of fun asking mechanics to switch over the brakes to the 'British way'. This rarely happens and it can be, ahem, interesting to ride with the brakes dialled in the 'wrong' way. . As you can see - confusing! (always be careful if you ride someone elses bike!)

The most frustrating thing for me was not what wasn't in the bag, but more 'why did I have to drive from Jo'burg, and find the number collection, just to collect a piece of paper and a pair of socks?' Surely if we're going to scrap goodie bags (which effectively this was), then we could collect our numbers in other cities! Say, maybe, Wednesday in Jo'burg, Thursday in Pietermatitzburg, and Friday/Saturday in Durban - then it would be much more 'leasurely'!

What do you guys think of this frame? Budget trail frame. Features: • industrial Black finish • Alloy construction • Front mech compatible • Disk only http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46812 I bought one to build a (VERY Small) 26er (I built one on a 14" frame for my 8 year old using my 'cast off' components) - it is absolutely exquisite, and a fantastic colour - and about R500 Total (landed, delivered, VAT and everything). Weigh's in heavy'ish for a small frame 1.7kg - but builds up to a MUCH lighter bike that the 'off the shelf' 24" kids bikes that you can buy!

Well done Michelle - Hekpoort will be easy this year!!! (OK so I lied - but easier than last year!). Good going! Amashova for me this weekend, but I'll see you at Kyalami next week. Cheers, Dave.

I'll offer the same answer as posted on this thread: https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/86320-remote-lockout-for-rear-shock/ I'd start with asking Johan Bornman (Yellow Saddle) - he both re-builds, and runs courses in Fork and (I think) shock re-building, so will probably know the architecture of the RP2 and also, probably, the 'available parts'.

I'd start with asking Johan Bornman (Yellow Saddle) - he both re-builds, and runs courses in Fork and (I think) shock re-building, so will probably know the architecture of the RP2 and also, probably, the 'available parts'.

I like that idea Perhaps they could were distinctive shirts, and they could follow the 'Report Bad Driving' principle! It could say: Cycling SA Official Hi My name is *** ***** I'm a CSA Paid Official You are most welcome to discuss ANY CSA issue you have with me

That's my 'estimate' of the total for 2010 - based on their published figures for August, and extrapolating (on a linear basis) to the end of the year. I don't know how many people they employ - hopefully quite a few if they are spending R350k on travel and accommodation!

While I agree that race entries are getting more expensive (and undoubtedly some of the more 'popular'races are a rip-off), I actually feel that I am getting something tangible for my money. I would have thought it is the race organisers that negotiate with land owners, not CSA. This is not the case with CSA - as far as I can see, the money I pay to CSA gives me absolutely no benefit at all! Has anyone ever met anyone from CSA at a Race? what do they do for their R1.1 Million plus salaries, and their R350K travel and accommodation expenses? With Race Entry Fees, you can pick and choose which races to enter - and if that is on cost, then you are at liberty to pick and choose. With CSA, it is 'Pay Up'or you can not enter any race!