JXV

Cracked 2 helmets in crashes. One of them I was also concussed for a day or two afterwards. It would have been much worse without. No question, I always ride with a helmet...... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Yeah and not so simple because some of the early boost frames that came out were a little hybridised to enable them to make use of existing standard cranksets. e.g. my Hightower has 68mm threaded BB shell so you can use the BB spacers to shift a standard 73mm BB around to give boost spacing to to a standard crank. Some freebodies also have spacer rings that allow the cassette position to be adjusted a little. In both cases make sure the BB insert/cassette lockring has deep enough thread if you start using spacers. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Separating issues for clarity here .... 1) You don't work on bikes for a living but the shop does so you can expect them to know better and act accordingly. In this respect, yes they probably should have fitted a chainring with correct offset....or at least used spacers. 2) Are you certain they didn't compensate some other way by e.g. using spacers to shift the BB across or spacers under the cassette? Have you measured the actual chainline to determine if it is appreciably offline from the drivetrain manufacturer's installation guidelines? 3) You've had a whole 700km (50 or so hours of riding) to experience signs of incorrect chainline ( yours would have been too wide in front if it lacked the offset ring ). These signs are noise/grinding of chain against front ring. Scratching of the sides of chain ring teeth, premature chain wear, chain clicking/falling to a smaller cog when in the granny gear - and unable to adjust this with shifter cable tension...etc. Chainwear can be measured...how bad is it? I think you do have a case....the shop was a bit negligent....but also quite some time has elapsed during which you have not noticed negative effects so it is difficult to determine the value of any damage over and above the normal wear and tear of 700km of riding. You should perhaps try to meet the shop halfway....ask for a replacement chain ring and return the one supplied incorrectly. This will limit any extra wear going forward. If the chain shows excessive wear when measured then this would also create additional cassette wear and you'll have to argue the case. To maximise your cassette life it is probably best that you acquire2 or 3 chains and rotate them sequentially every month or two. Perhaps the shop can be persuaded to give you a discount on a spare chain or two to get you started. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Big fan of the Purgatory front, Ground control rear combo. BTW no poll comes up when viewing this on Tapatalk Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

It may have lost some air pressure. Get a shock pump and reset the pressure according to the autosag procedure. If this restores performance it is an air leakage issue. The increased bob under pedalling could also be due to wear and tear on internal seals in the damping system. Either way it is overdue for a service. Only other possibility is that you have put on a bunch of weight since buying it..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

tjops! [emoji35] [emoji35] [emoji35] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Get spares from any other SPD pedal .... they pretty much all use the same size balls. Or order from your LBS. According to the part number they apparently come in packs of 64 but I dunno if local agents import them. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

XT M8000 Fit and forget. Within your budget too. Pads and discs easy to come by. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

DoT 5.1 has higher boiling point. Intended for high performance cars. MTB brakes shouldn't be getting that hot. Normal DoT 4 is just fine. make sure it is freshly opened or has been stored in a well sealed container. Avoid DoT 5 which is a silicone based fluid. It will damage your seals. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I'm kinda with Myles on this one but maybe you guys sre talking a little at cross purposes. 1 - OP's shock should be serviced if it has not been serviced within the last 50 h of riding time. 2 - with the shock in OPEN setting, some bob while pedalling uphill/hard is to be expected. I would set Sag somewhere between 20 to 30% according to rider preference when sitting normally on the bike. I have several friends that ride Anthems (both RS and Fox) and they are happy when I set them up this way. This mode used to descend and ride rough trail. 3- in Propedal/Firm/Climb mode the amount of bob when pedalling hard or uphill should be significantly reduced (but not zero) if the shock is healthy. 4 - yes the air pressure should be adjusted to the weight of the rider. A heavy rider needs more pressure. use the sag range I gave above to get a starting point. Then adjust to your preference. 5 - rebound setting will vary according to rider weight and trail conditions. Only 2 or 3 of the 14 or more click stops will be right for each rider. This is because e.g. the higher pressure needed to suspend a heavy rider in the correct sag range makes the shock rebound faster, so the heavy rider would tend to use a slower range of rebound settings. A light rider will find the best shock response with rebound at the faster end of the range. Shock manufacturers have nice videos on their websites that explain how to make these settings. If you change the shock pressure, rebound speed will change so you will likely also need to change the rebound setting. 6 - if the shock is not serviced dirt gets in and seals/o rings in the mechanism get worn. This can lead to damping fluid bypassing the shimstack/restrictor valves used to control oil flow in the shock when it compresses and extends. Any fluid that bypasses the intended fluid flow path through the mechanism will result in poor damping control that manifests as sloppy performance. Hence the reason why I keep harping on about making sure the maintenance is up to date. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

If your bike is bobbing when you pedal then best 1st option is to get the shock properly serviced. If still not working to your satisfaction then at least you can sell it knowing it is in good order. Both Fox and Rockshox make higher spec shocks with settings to stiffen the shock while pedalling. A rigid lockout increases impact loads on pivot bearings and bushes and I wouldn't recommend it. Rigid lockout also not as good for traction while pedalling in rough trail conditions. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

eish....where was I? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Nose down, sit at the back. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Is that a lift/bathroom selfie? I thought the hub disapproves of people who post those to inflate their egos? Just checking.....[emoji48] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Maybe being pedantic but 5nm means 5 nanometers (length) and 5 Nm means 5 Newton meters (torque)..... [emoji48] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Note where it says on the clamp that the maximum recommended torque is 5 Nm.... That is much less than hand-tight with a typical cycling multitool. If your post still slips there is a different problem. Also, for future reference, Stainless steel allen screw in alloy clamp thread WILL SEIZE UP if not lubricated with an anti-seize paste like copaslip. To get the remaining bit of bolt out will be tricky. The white corrosion deposit visible in your pics tells me it is likely seized. So spray a penetrating fluid like Q10, let it soak overnight, then drill carefully for suitably sized 'eeze-out' extractor and gently as possible, extract the broken bit. Then apply copaslip to the new bolts before fitting them. It might be easier to buy a new clamp. Consider using carbon assembly paste on the seatpost if it tends to slip. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The Comp model has Cromoly rails, the Pro and Expert have Ti rails. The SWorks has carbon rails. Comp and Expert have same chassis with level 2 padding. Available in 3 sizes 143, 155 and 168. Pro and S Works models have thinner level 1 padding and are only available in 143 and 155 sizes. Obviously a bit lighter too. Do you really want to spend R4k on a saddle? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

It would help if we knew your weight, intended riding style and the type of bike. Agree with Myles. If you're going to spend XTR money then also at least consider Hope, Guides or Saint. The Hopes can be had with 4 pot calipers if you want. Or save half the cost and get XT M8000 with upsized Ice-tec rotors according to your weight and how much power you want. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Deore is the top series of Shimano MTB components. It has 4 levels:base = Deore then : SLX XT XTR All Deore stuff is decent and has a somewhat consistent feel in use but as you go up the range the componemts get lighter and more expensive. There is more use of exotic materials like stainless steel, titanium and more use of bearings in place of bushes. In some cases you get more functionality (e.g. XT and XTR shifters, brakes). When you see XT, XTR and SLX on the packaging simultaneously it means that item can be used interchangeably. This would be the case e.g. for brake pads, chains, cables, brake hose etc. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Yes but the service kits are so expensive that even if you do it yourself, the cost for a full overhaul including lever pivots, master cylinder and caliper with new pads comes close to the cost of a brand new brakeset. BTDT Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Maybe the wheel bearings are shot. This could also cause the disc not to track straight and true under braking..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

yes. The 143 Power feels wider than my 143 Phenom. If you measure 145 they should not be telling you a 155 is OK......why do the measurement if the plan is to ignore it? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Normally I would say Lower back pain - too short / lowShoulders - too long Echoes what you found. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Was your old bike also a 29er? If not....the bigger wheels benefit from wider bars which give more control and leverage. Unless you are tiny, 700mm plus is now the norm. 2 female friends that ride a lot have respectively: -Med Giant Anthem with 740mm bars...very happy -Small Cube (brand new) with 780mm bars - she finds these too wide and has asked me to cut them down. previously she rode a Rumor with 720-740mm bars and was happy. Secondly, from your pics the old bike has a riser bar tilted quite forward and the new one has a flat bar that appears tilted back quite a bit. This will result in quite a difference in the upsweep and backsweep. notwithstanding that the two bars may have quite different geometry anyway. Is it your lower back that gets sore or upper back/shoulders? If the Niner is new give it a month or so for your body to settle into the new geometry. If it still hurts after that then look at making changes. Consider a bike fit. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

My previous bike had no water bottle mount and current bike only one. I need more water than 750ml. Most of my rides are 30km +. Agree at races that regular water tables make it easy to carry less but for day to day I prefer a hydration pack. Lobo for years but just got a Volt. Great. Lumbar reservoir has a lower more natural fit, pack has more capacity and easier to fill. pockets on belt mean that I don't need to stop and take the pack off to stow my keys or get my phone out or grab a goo/bar. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk