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RT 66 is a normal standard 6 bolt disc rotor....1 piece steel. Better than many of the lightweight rotors out there that have more holes than steel in the braking surface. BR 395 is an entry level brake caliper. It will benefit from the RT 66 rotor and from larger diameter if you need more stopping power. Normally it is fitted with a lower spec rotor. It can't take metal or ice-tec pads though....they won't fit....only the resin B01S pad. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

When I ran 1x10 with XT M786-RD on a converted 11-42 cassette it didn't shift quite as slick as before but it was 100% reliable (kinda like a SRAM drivetrain [emoji12] ). There might be something more at fault with yours. I think you might be pushing it to run the Sunrace 11-46 on there. 10 teeth bigger than it was made for! 11 speed RD driven by the 10 speed shifter might work quite well if the shift ratios have stayed the same. Or as Myles and Odinson indicated there are replacement RD cages available that reposition the top pulley for better shifting with wide range cassettes. When you examine the M8000 RD alongside the M786 the layout and geometry is quite different. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

XT M8000 brakes come as standard with a plastic insert that can be removed if you want to fit i-spec II shifters. There is only this one version of the brake levers M8000 shifters are available in a bar clamp only version (SL-M8000-L/R), an i-specB version (SL-M8000-B-IL/IR) for fitting to older i-specB brake levers and a i-spec II version (SL-M8000-IL/IR). Be careful not to buy the i-spec B version if you will run M8000 brakes at some stage as you will not be able to mount the shifters to them. If you have M8000 brakes you can choose either the bar mount or i-spec II shifters. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

According to Shimano's spec sheet the 10 speed RDs (including XTR M986 GS/SGS) are designed for a maximum cog size of 36T. You can get it to run on bigger cogs by turning in the B screw but then the clearance from top jockey wheel to cogs in the smaller sizes gets large and shifting would be slow and sloppy. The 11 speed Shimano RDs including XTR, XT and SLX are all designed to accomodate the 11-46 cassette as standard. They have a steeper slope on their shift ramp which keeps the top pulley closer to the cogs through the whole range. Just beware that for some strange reason the SLX M7000 SGS (long cage) RD used for the 3x system is still 10 speed, not 11 and it is designed for cogs up to 36t max. The SLX M7000 3x rear shifter is also only 10 speed. If you are going with SLX 11speed RD to save some $$$ then be careful to buy only the medium cage M7000-GS RD and other parts from the 1x or 2x systems. My 11spd XT RD shifts much better with 11-46 than the old 10 spd XT RD did on a converted 10speed 11-42 cassette. I have since changed my old 1x10 back to 2x10 on another bike and it runs perfectly again. Converted 10 speed 1x systems can be reliable but shift quality is definitely affected. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

90kg in cycling kit with hydration pack. Riding a 29er. I like 1 finger brakes. All these factors together led to the big disc setup. On my old 26er and a few kilos lighter back then, 180 / 160 combo was adequate. 2 fingers sometimes. The bigger wheels make a difference that you can feel.... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Icetech discs may have less tolerance for wear because you can have a nasty crash if you wear through the steel facings into the alu core. They start life at 2mm thick and Shimano recommends replacing at 1.5mm. There will be some extra meat for safety factor but be careful. My set has done about 7500km of 90% trail riding and worn to 1.6mm in that time. Spares are waiting in the cupboard. I use the RT86 in 203 front and 180 rear. Expensive but specials come up from time to time. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The RT99 rotors are centrelock specific. If you dont have centrelock hubs then you must go for a 6 bolt rotor (SM RT86 is the 6 bolt version of icetech). At your weight you would probably be ok on a 160 front rotor but remember wheel size is a factor too. And if you change from 180 to 160 then you will need to change the caliper's mount adapter. The 160 may enable the caliper to be mounted directly to posts without an adapter but if its an IS mount then you def need a new adapter. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

M8000 XT shifters do have multi release. You can release 1 or two gears at a time depending how far you pull/push the shift lever......and yes you can pull it with your index finger or push it with your thumb to release. When shifting to easier gears for a climb you can do up to 4 at a time on the long lever. You don't need the long cage RD unless you are running a 3x system or a non standard 2x. The med cage XT RD accomodates all standard 1x and 2x setups. However, on a 2x if you go wider than the standard 10t step on the front rings or bigger than 40t on the cassette then you need long cage. Med cage will do all shimano cassettes up to the 11-46 in 1x systems Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Rather don't fit old pads to new rotors. Ride the old ones till they are done, if you can tolerate them, then fit new pads together with the new rotors. Ice tech rotors are alu centre sandwiched between steel facings then riveted to an alu carrier. This helps to conduct heat away on long fast descents. They work noticeably better than same sized normal steel rotors in those conditions. I also find they are quite stiff and seldom bend or drag.....pricey though. My 1st set has lasted about 8000 km of riding and has 20% life to go . I've only used normal resin pads so far. The SM RT99 have fancy additional cooling fins on the rotor. I would not personally downsize from 180 to 160 in front...maybe rear though. I'm 90kg on a 29er and ride a 203mm up front (SM-RT86) due to weight and the larger wheel. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Disposing of old latex sealant.....diluting with lots of water and flushing it will work but wasteful and irresponsible......rather pour into a disposable container and leave it for a day or so. The available latex will congeal. Flush any remaining liquid into the sewer (not stormwater drain and toss the container with congealed latex in the bin. If you are in a commercial workshop environment like a LBS then municipal bylaws applicable to your effluent and solid waste are probably stricter than for domestic premises...so follow your procedures... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Also ride early several days a week. Usually only an hour to 1h15.... I normally have a rusk and cup of coffee before heading out. Had a problem though....because it is cool, especially in the winter (often below freezing) , I wasn't drinking enough and often started my day dehydrated. The coffee may play a part too? So make sure to drink enough and have a decent healthy breakfast after the ride before going to work so you can recover. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Hope makes freewheel bodies in two lengths. The longer one has 37mm splines and the shorter one 35mm....approximately ...iirc. The longer one comes with a 1mm spacer that fits under the cassette for 11spd. You can also try cog spacers from an old 10spd or 11spd XT cassette but these are about 1.8mm and may be too thick. Just make sure your lockring engages enough threads to be reliable. I'd want 3 or 4 turns of thread minimum. Some lockrings are longer and have deeper thread than others....another fix if you get stuck. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Ha ha Philip....I am still on the fence. Rode my old 2x10 TBLTc yesterday and loved it. A gear for every slight change in gradient. I reckon I would be quicker in a race on 2x10 but 1x has its advantages for recreational riding. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Overall I endorse the advice to use an old fire extinguisher. Air brake reservoirs from trucks also work well and easily available at scrap yards, but may be a bit bigger than you need. If you must use PVC pipe be aware that it is available in different pressure classes and the larger sizes above 90mm are not easily available in the higher pressure classes. You need to use the blue uPVC with grey solvent weld fittings,all in Class 16. If you have the facility to do PVC welding with sticks/heatgun then solvent weld, dry 24h and backweld all joints. Class 16 fittings/adapters are available that allow you to screw in standard threaded valves and steel or brass fittings. If you make the whole gadget out of class 16 it will theoretically withstand 16bar but I wouldn't go past 4 or 5 bar. If you can't seat a tyre with that then something else is wrong. Keep the thing under a few layers of blanket when pressurised and in use. Do not use white (drain piping) or light brown (non UV resistant pipe intended for burying) as these are not made to hold the pressures you will need. Remember that you will blow the flanges off a lot of rims at pressures approaching 4 bar and up. If your mtb tyre doesn't seat with 3bar inside it then something is wrong. I find that wiping the rim and tyre with a wet soapy cloth just before inflation tends to seat it at much lower pressures than a dry fit. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I have since gone 1x11 on a SC Hightower. Chainstay clearance is an issue. I had to put a 1mm spacer under the cassette and a M8000 B1 crank (+3 crank chainline for boost). Can run a round 34t chainring max. Oval 34 or a 36 will hit the chainstay unless I space it further out and ruin the chainline to cassette. Before the 1x11 I had 1x10 on the Hightower for a while and it fitted just fine with standard cranks and 10 speed cassette. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Dunno what brand of brake hose that is but tge decent Shimano BH90 hose has a thick layer of woven glassfibre between the inner hose and the outer cover. Difficult to cut. Replace with a decent hose and you should be good.... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Just make sure the 34t oval will not hit your chainstay. I can't fit one on my bike.... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Is your clutch on?Some NW rings have better profiles for chain retention than others. Wolftooth has been excellent for me ..... not a single chain drop so far. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

NW chainring - yesSize of chainring a little dependent on terrain and wheel size because you will lose 2 or 3 of your current easiest gears with the conversion 11 speed upgrade kit consisting of chain, cassette, RD and shifter will give you best value for money. Your 9 or 10speed chain is too wide for the 11 spd cassette so you must get 11 spd chain. It is normally part of an upgrade kit. Freehub body. Your 9spd freebody should be ok. Presume we are talking normal splined Shimano type? You might even need a thin spacer under the cassette. Just make sure that the lockring engages more than just one or two turns of thread. Chainline - 11 speed Shimano places the biggest cog a little inboard compared to 9 and 10 speed. You need to line up your chainring with #5 or #6 cassette cog (from small) and you might need spacers or different length chainring bolts for this. Check that the BCD of your current cranks will match to the bcd of the chainring you buy. Get a 10 speed NW chainring if you can't find a 11 speed that fits. 9,10 and 11 spd chains all have the same internal width so you can use the 11spd chain on a 10 spd chainring. You might have issues finding a NW chainring to fit your older cranks in which case you may as well upgrade to newer crankset. Any 10spd or 11 spd crankset will give you a workable solution. If you change the crankset you will need a new BB too. At this point you should consider if the level of investment is justified. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Lots been said about the size of the jumps in number of teeth between cogs........ What you have to remember is that it is proportional. So a 4 tooth jump from 11t to 15t would be horrendous - it changes the ratio by about 40% but a 4 tooth jump from 32t to 36t only changes the ratio by about 12% So, on the Eagle cassette and other not-quite-as-wide-range cassettes like the Shimano 11-46, the big tooth difference between granny and 2nd gear is not quite as bad as it appears when you actually ride them. In Shimano's case though I think they missed a trick. Their 11-46 XT cassette goes from 37t to 46t, a jump of 9 teeth. The gap is noticeable when you ride it. I ride a 29er with 34 front ring and 11-46 rear. I can climb almost anything I need to ride in that 46 but it is noticeably slow and the only other option is the 37t which can be be a bit tough. Shimano must have had a reason for their choice but the equivalent Sunrace cassette goes from 40t to 46t and I think it might suit me better - or I need to HTFU Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

yes I have and the jumps are bigger when compared to 2x10 or 2x11 in smaller climbing chainring. You have to take the overall gearing of both the chainring and the cassette into account. In the climbing gears, a 2x system gives 4 choices where a 1x system offers 3 over the same span of ratios - see Iwan's table of overall ratios in a previous post. This means the jumps between the lower gears in the 1x system average about 33% larger than in an equivalent 2x system. And I can feel it when climbing. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Eddy Yeah....gearing wise 2x10 is better....more range than all but maybe Eagle and smaller steps so it is easier to get a good speed and rhythm when climbing and also more top end but here are the pros of 1x - lighter by about 400g - new systems offer almost the range of 2x. If you are really fit or ride in less mountainous areas you may not need the full 2x10 / 2x11 range anyway. - no chain drops on my setup in over 2 years - can mount my dropper lever on the left under the bar where the front shifter used to be. ergonomically this is way better than all other options - less cables - 1x is quiet....really quiet - better chainring clearance over logs and stuff. I only have the one bike but if I had an XC bike and a trail bike it would be 2x10/2x11 on the XC and 1x11 on the trail bike. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

There are signs of corrosion inside the crank tube but the bearing/shaft interfaces look clean. It is normally the non-drive side BB seal that fails 1st so possibly some water got between the shaft and the BB bearing on that side and could have initiated corrosion leading to failure. I am also a little surprised that the bearing came out of the bb cup with the shaft attached - were they corroded together? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

made by Motorex. Rebadged standard product? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Aaaah now I see....not actually a bicycle...just for illustration Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk