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JXV

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Everything posted by JXV

  1. I use the whole 150mm on my Hightower regularly in the Karkloof and could use even more sometimes ..... but the rear wheel has buzzed my ass a few times when I hang too far back instead of keeping my weight more centered. I also changed from Phenom to a Power saddle recently. The Power saddle is better for pedalling but wider at the back end and much less comfortable against the legs when the seat is dropped.....which is why I would drop it even more if I could. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  2. Old thread I see but the advice below was not given and is timeless..... Don't ride them on the limits of frame insertion. Those limits are for average weight riders on correctly sized frames. Heavy riders and those with long legs relative to total height put a LOT more stress on their posts. The seatpost and frame can have different minimum insertion lengths so always compare the two and use the longer of the two measurements as your absolute minimum. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  3. Quite old.....Nikon D200 with 105VR macro lens.... in the dark and drizzle using a torch to focus manually and then diffused off-camera SB800 flash for the actual pic..... nowadays one could probably get quite close to this with a modern camera phone. Insects slow down a lot when cold and wet so you can get up close. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  4. That is not a dragonfly/baby dragonfly munching on the bee. It is commonly known as a robber fly. Family Asilidae. They prey on smaller insects, commonly bees and other flies. I have attached a close-up pic of a similar insect (pic taken with something a bit optically more high end than a phone so I hope it qualifies here). View it on a tablet or monitor for best impact. I wouldn't want to meet one of these in a dream. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  5. Phone cameras really good these days but 2 main disadvantages: they aren't too good in low light and the lenses aren't wide enough for the kind of street, architecture and landscapes that I like to shoot. Even the advanced mikendruks are not wide enough. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  6. Cool...it's needed a clean up for a while. lots of trees across the trail when I rode it a few months ago. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  7. Your brake lever assembly incorporates a reservoir, the lever and the master cylinder driven by that lever. The reservoirs on many modern brakes have a rubber diaphragm that sits on top of the fluid to isolate air from it. The diaphragm allows expansion/contraction of the fluid volume without air contact when the brakes are operated and when they heat up, cool down and when the pads wear. With these designs, if your brakes are properly bled, there is no air in the system and you can turn the bike upside down without air bubbles 'rising' to the caliper. Some fluid may run back to the lever under gravity though (and this partially retract the pads) so you should always pump the levers a few times once the bike is right way up to readjust the pad position. If you do get air this way then your entire system needs to be bled and filled correctly. An intermediate solution is to store your bike vertically on one of those hook thingies. If you adjust it right, you can keep the levers above the calipers while still raising the front axle above the fork crown so that oil in the fork can run up to the wiper seal and foam rings. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  8. I've heard the Ardent 2.4s are much better but the 2.25s I have aren't nearly as good as the Spez Purgatory/Ground Control combo I replaced them with. Less grip, less braking, wash out in corners and slower rolling. Heavy. More expensive. Durable though. I recently refitted the Ardents to my old bike and the 'downgrade' was immediately evident. Entered the 1st corner at normal Purgatory pace and washed out..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  9. Good component spec. Your tyre choice is heavy and you could save 400g there quite easily at the expense of some reliability. My Spez rubber with control casings was more than 400g lighter than the 2.25 LUST Ardents it replaced and has lasted 18 months with no major issues except lots of sidewall weeping. Also the dropper costs you another 400g compared to a carbon post....but who would want to lose the dropper on that kind of bike. You could also save some weight on the cranks but at a price. Everything else is already quite light considering the bike's purpose. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  10. Running my Hightower with 150mm Pike on 29er wheelset. Rides great and no need to change the fork travel from140 to 150 if you fit a 27.5+ wheelset Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  11. Lotsa Videos on the web. preferably use the ones on manufacturer's websites...they tend to avoid dodgy shortcuts that some of the private vids show...... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  12. It really is an easy job but you do need a basic workshop with bike stand or soft jawed vice to hold the fork, a drip tray/bucket to catch the oil, a soft mallet and on some forks a long 10mm socket so as not to damage the damper shaft. 50ml syringe for measuring and inserting oil is useful too. You do not really need the special tools you see in factory manuals and videos for servicing lowers and seating new seals - you can make a plan with ordinary tools and still do the job perfectly. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  13. If you use a torque wrench and do not overtighten the crush washers they can be re-fitted several times without leaking. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  14. Pro4 has larger diameter spoke flanges to give a slightly stiffer build. They are also now available in boost axle sizes (110/148 axles with spoke flanges about 6mm further apart). If you have non-boost Pro4 hubs you can also get endcap adapters to make them boost compatible. Final change is the slightly faster engagement....now 8.2° from 9° courtesy of a new 44 tooth drive ring. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  15. Can't wait..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  16. Great shot. I took the liberty of a bit of on-phone post-processing to give it more impact....hope you don't mind. Crop to adjust composition Brightness down to reduce exposure Saturation up a bit Colour temp 1 step warmer Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  17. Agree with tester about the twin lock not allowing individual adjustment of front and rear suspension. I also like to leave my fork very plush and stiffen up the rear for pedalling sections of flat trail and for climbing. Also, speccing a 34-24 chainring set with 11-42 rear cassette in a 2x11 setup gives crazy low gearing. 38-28 would be much better, giving same low gear as 24 front with 36 rear but much more speed at the top end. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  18. Check out their website. All the maps and access arrangements are thre. You can even download gpx maps of the trails for your gps. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  19. Thanks. Was a great ride too...if a bit muddy. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  20. Karkloof in the mist this morning Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  21. Didn't see one. Legally in most countries it doesn't need one unless it exceeds a certain pressure and volume threshold....I don't recall the values applicable in SA legislation. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  22. I have a high capacity 12V compressor in my 4x4. Remove tyre valve core, smear a little soapy water on the bead and compressor pipe direct onto valve tube. Hang the wheel from the tailgate. Never fails to seat the bead. Then fill sealant, fit the core and pump normally. I can see the advantage of this air tank on trips and in the race carpark if you don't have a compressor. 11 bar is enough. Most domestic and commercial compressors for air tools are regulated to 100psi (about 7 bar) so that's what you'll most likely fill it to. There is enough leeway for a hot car. But if you pump it to 11 bar then rather keep it cool. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  23. Chartreuse... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  24. Welcome! Maybe start a separate thread for your new bike query. Budget up to R30k puts some nice dual suspension bikes in the running if you are prepared to look at 2015 and 2016 old stock models - a really nice hardtail is also possible but your comfort will go up a lot more with dual sus. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  25. In normal rear wheels the hub flanges to which the spokes attach are off centre to make space for the cassette, so the spoke angle is flatter on the drive side. The asymmetrical spoke angles result in the term "dish". This makes for higher spoke tension on drive side and makes the wheel less stiff than it could be but centres it in the frame. On the Stage the frame offsets the whole rear axle/hub assembly 5mm to drive side so the wheel rim must be shifted 5mm to left relative to the hub/axle in order to keep it lined up with the bike frame's centreline. This equalises spoke angle and tension somewhat making the wheel potentially stiffer for same average spoke tension. If converting an existing wheel the spoke lengths change less than 1mm so it may not be necessary to change the spokes if they are still healthy (but wiser to fit new if they are well used). Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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