JXV

I'm not a roadie so I wouldn't know but it looked odd. Stands to reason that braking forces generated at the hub by a disc must be transmitted via spokes to the tyre's contact patch so the spokes might need to be a bit more beefy than a rim braked wheel but still? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

At least 36 spokes on that wheel? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Unless you ride a lot of dirt road and non technical trail don't buy Crossmarks....maybe for the back wheel but there are much better choices for the front that offer better cornering and braking. UST compatible tyres can be set up WITHOUT sealant on a UST rim but then you have no protection against punctures. Also, you dont have to use a UST tyre for a tubeless setup. They tend to be heavy. There are lots of lighter options (Maxxis and others) although I must admit, Ardent LUST set up tubeless on my TBLT was trouble free for over a year - I just prefer the grip of tyres I'm using now even if their sidewalls ooze sealant from time to time. Also, no need for 220ml sealant in each tyre. 60ml per wheel is enough for a 29er. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Drak Descent Underberg....very wet and muddy. Went more sideways than forwards Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I bought a XT brakeset from them and it was a so called J-kit. This means it is pre-bled and sealed but disassembled. The levers have plugs and hoses have little sealing membranes on the ends. You have to remove plugs and join hoses in a specific sequence to avoid leakage....the little membranes get punctured on assembly and no need to bleed if you get it right. But.......unless your bike is XXL you're gonna want to shorten those hoses so you need to plan on doing a bleed anyway. And you need 2 olive kits if you shorten the hoses. These come with a barb and a fresh olive (ferrule). Always had good service from CWC and always got exactly what I ordered....even recently. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Why else would they change them so soon after releasing M8000 series? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Putting different pads on opposite sides of the same disc - different friction factors so you'll get different retarding forces that will "twist" the disc while it rotates under braking. Recipe for brake squeal IMO. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

My LBS stocks them. Ask your LBS to get you some if not in stock. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

You will get more milage if you buy 2 (or 3) chains and regularly alternate them than if you sequentially replace chains as they wear out. Admin and more upfont cost but if you're the organised type maybe not a big thing to deal with. Fitting a new chain after a worn one accelerates tooth wear until they both settle in to each other. If you already got 4200km from a ring then buying same again should be OK? Not terrible milage. As long as the rings shift ok and are not slipping, keep using them. Those CRM81 rings are proper NW rings whereas the older CRM80 claimed all sorts of special tooth shaping for chain retention without NW teeth. Makes you realise that 90% or more of the usual hype is just marketing BS Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

27.5+, not 27.5....big difference! Hightower has clearance for up to 3.0 tyres on 45mm 27.5+ rims but 2.8 plus wheels are preferred. These have almost the same rolling diameter as 29er. If you put normal 27.5 wheels on the average modern 29er you'll likely get a lot of pedal strikes due to lowering the bb by about 20mm with the smaller wheels. Lot of Hightower owners choose 150mm forks so that they have the option to swap between 27.5+ and 29er wheelsets without adjusting fork travel. I agree with you that 10mm difference in fork travel can't be that drastic in terms of handling but given that the bike is long and slack, adding more travel lifts the front in climbs and may make it wander a bit more on steep ascents. Between 140/150 forks and hi/low flip chip positions you can adjust the geo a bit. I get less pedal strikes on Highrower than on the TB LTc but i still wouldn't run the flip chip in low with 27.5+ wheels on..... Some guys are also 'long shocking' their Hightowers to get 150mm rear travel but this voids warranty and maybe also longevity. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I'm sure loving mine. Interesting comment about it riding high with the RCT shock.....mine rides lowish with a Fox FloatX fitted with the Evol air can. For my weight around 88 - 90kg I have to run about 320psi to get 30%sag (shock limit is 350) and it is still super plush. I would prefer less sag, maybe 25% but this puts the shock pressure close to the limit. I think its not the bike's fault though...maybe Evol aircans are not intended for riders in my weight class. So mine bobs a bit when pedalling in open mode but I use the Med setting a lot on the flats and hills, and Firm mode on tar. At the front I have a 150 Pike. Running 29er wheels with 2.3 rubber. Have not tried a 27.5+ set yet. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Use a large socket....I think a 36mm works ok. press in using palm of hand on socket / driver. The outer lip should sit flush on top of the lowers (no gap). They push in by hand with moderate pressure. Do not hammer them. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Cost all-in from CWC if I may ask? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Saddles can sag due to the padding getting tired or the 'chassis' can develop cracks that are not visible when the seat is not loaded. After a crash the seat rails can get bent and this may not be visible unless you look carefully. If it suddenly starts hurting you after being ok for a while then replace. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I had spinal fractures of T3 and T5 about 6 years ago. T2 to T7 now fused. In the same incident and possibly affected by older injuries, the disc between C2 and C3 was damaged with the disc compressed a bit (but not prolapsed). Infammation after the surgery for the fusion as well as the C2/C3 thing gave me similar symptoms of numbness/tingling in triceps lower forearm and pinky fingers. Took about a year to subside and I was off cycling for about a year. I still get it mildly from time to time. With the upper spine fusion and reduced mobility in my neck I also can no longer tilt my head back fully .... difficult to empty a can of beer now unless I tilt my head sideways[emoji48] Riding wise I now set a much more upright stance on my Mtb than before. 30mm of spacers under a short stem with a 20mm riser bar... If I was in drops on a roadbike I reckon I would only be able to see about 5m ahead. Upright stance makes it harder to climb very steep stuff without lifting the bars. I compensate by pedalling smooth circles in spds instead of mashing the pedals only on the downstroke. It gets better, slowly, so be patient. 1st thing is to allow as much healing as possible then be careful to do all the exercises your physio gives you. Good luck Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

No....the chain will fit. All 9,10 and speed chains have the same inner width. However when used as part of a 1x system a NW chainring retains the chain better than a standard ring with no FD If you plan keeping it as 2x10 with new 11 spd chain, cassette and RD then the front shifting might need adjusting because the 11 speed chain is slightly narrower across the outer plates than a 10 spd. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Lacklustre assembly has something to do with it too. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

2 bike shops and a caliper overhaul and a new rotor (presumably suggested by the bike shops?).....I'd go and ask for my money back and return all the unnecessary goods. The one thing you really needed from the LBS - expertise - was not supplied but they sure charged you for the illusion of providing it.... Unless they are the cup-and-cone alignment washers used as standard for some older Shimano and Avid brakes you shouldn't need them. If you do its a sign of mismatch between the adapter and the disc size. There a quite a number different rotor diameters around. 140, 160, 170, 180, 185, 200, 203......and people tend to mix and match adapters. If you feel the need to add a spacer washer or two in order to align the caliper radially its a sign that your adapter and disc sizes are mismatched Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

For a DSLR (or mirrorless with interchangeable lenses) your budget is anything from about R6k for an entry level kit to several R100k if you get into the long fast glass used for sports and wildlife. If you can stretch to about the R12k to R20k region initially then I would recommend skipping the entry level bodies since you already expressed an intention to expand your system over time and you listed subjects (like wildlife) that benefit from having stronger auto focus systems and easy adjustability of settings via dedicated buttons instead of menu diving. For DSLR and overall, Canon and/or Nikon systems offer the best availability, support and choice of lenses and accessories. Another good player is Pentax. APSC Mirrorless systems from Sony and Fuji are the best and competitive with DSLRs in image quality but have less availability and service support. Mirrorless systems must rely on electronic viewfinders and they are usually very compact....so battery life suffers and this is a biggie. Mirrorless ILCs have not matured yet...and some will moan bitterly about this statement but its true. So, back to Canikon....once you make an investment in a few lenses and accessories you'll tend to stick with just the one brand 'cos its hideously expensive to switch. Both are good. I'm a long time satisfied Nikon shooter. Nikon : The D3x00 bodies are entry level. Very good but with limited features. You need to menu-dive to make use of all the available shooting adjustments. D3300 has just been replaced by D3400 but actually has some superior features. I'd buy a D3300 kit over the equivalent D3400 right now. The D5x00 bodies give you longer design life, more robustness and a lot more buttons and external controls. The AF system is also better. D5500 was just replaced by D5600 but the upgrade is pretty much only the Snapbridge wifi system. D5300 and D5500 both have wifi anyway, just not Snapbridge. Some excellent deals on D5500 and D5300 kits right now in the R12k to R15k range. all the above D3x00 and D5x00 models use basically the same excellent 24 Mpixel sensor Canon x00D series are the equivalents of the Nikon D5x00 series. Some nice options. Nikon sensors are way better IMO. Will get onto lenses in another post if you still interested.... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

yes...some standard hubs can be modified with extension adapters to fit boost frames and forks but then a few issues arise:1- you have to space the discs out by 3mm which needs spacers AND longer disc mounting bolts OR (strongly not recommended) if you have IS mounts you can space the caliper 3mm inboard but this increases torsion on the frame in the vicinity of the caliper mounts. 2- you don't get the advantage of the 6mm wider distance between hub flanges which make the wheel stiffer for same spoke tension .... the whole reason for boost!! 3- your cassette remains on the standard chainline so you should then also run normal cranks. This has a couple of risks - reduced clearance between chain and tyre if you run plus sized tyres and reduced clearance between chainring and chainstay on most boost frames which might prevent you using the larger ring sizes such as 32t oval, 34t, 34t oval and 36t Absolutely Don't do it!! Insist on actual boost hubs if you have a boost frame. Give up on Mavic if necessary. My Hope4/ArchMk3 build cost about R10k including building, valves, tubeless riml tape etc. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I was able to get a Shimano M8000 B1 (boost) crankset and 96 BCD chainring from a local online store. took a couple of days extra 'cos they didn't have stock in-house. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I had to order a set made up. Parts are available. My Hope4/Arch Mk3 wheelset in boost cost a bit more than the regular specials on currently popular 15x100 and 12x142 hub sizes that run on the local online stores. I paid close to RRP. Ask your local specialist wheelbuilders for a quote..... More and more boost frames coming on the market now in popular frames so it should improve. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Your 9 speed freewheel body should accommodate a 10spd cassette just fine. 10 spd chain has the same inner width but narrower outer width so it will run on 9spd chainrings but I don't know how well it will shift on the 9 spd fd and cranks. You can't mix a SRAM shifter with a Shimano derailleur and vice versa but chains and cassettes no problem because chain width and gear spacing is identical in the 9, 10 and 11 speed systems. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

If you do go the acid route just make there are no other metal parts in there ....only the acid and the rusty bearing shell and the plastic pedal body. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

You can try pouring some phosphoric acid (rust dissolver) to loosen it. Use coke as a substitute but the phosphoric acid content in coke is a bit weak for serious rust dissolution. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk