Jump to content

JXV

Members
  • Posts

    1652
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JXV

  1. So the cable routing under the BB looks scrappy.....but the internal routing wasn't used?
  2. Check shock bushings first, especially if not replaced in 3 years. Your LBS should have replacements or can order them. If not bushings then methodically check each pivot point in rear suspension. Put a fingertip across the joint and then lift/lower the bike's rear end. You'll feel the play if there is any. Don't forget to also check headset and wheel bearings just in case. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  3. Breaking in the new 1x11 groupset. Lots of mud. Hilton locals will know the spot. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  4. Yes, if the M8000 RD works with her 10spd shifter on a 11-42 cassette then the RD M7000 GS will also work. The new 11speed RDs are designed for wide range cassettes with 40, 42 or 46 big cogs. To do this they position the top pulley further away from the axle than older 10 speed RDs. If you try to use an older 10 speed 11-36 or 11-34 cassette with 11speed RD you'll need to slacken the B screw and it may not be able to get the top pulley close enough. It will work but shifting could be slow or imprecise Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  5. M7000 1x and 2x is 11 speed.M7000 3x is still 10 speed..... strange decision..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  6. Not sure the exact mechanism of the failures. I am only saying that positioning the brakes on seat tube does not (to me) create forces that would make the wheel jump downwards out of the dropouts. I doubt the brake positioning is the root cause. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  7. Did a quick force diagram and can't see how positioning the brakes on seat tube would cause the wheel to want to jump down out of the dropouts. brakes are almost in the optimum position for forcing the axle up into dropouts....as long as you are moving forwards when you apply brakes [emoji48] What it does do is put a big compressive load onto the seatstays whereas normally with brakes mounted on the seatstay you would get a downward force (shear) that is perpendicular to the seatstay and will try to bend it. So the seat tube brake are pushing the stays along their length towards the seat and toptube where normal rim brakes would cause a bending moment on the seatstay. These two designs would presumably need different carbon layups for best strength at the joint....maybe a designer or fabricator was sleeping...... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  8. I'm not sure if the leverage ratios are the same (i.e. if the same degree of cable displacement by shifter causes same degree of movement by RD). The problem of B screw and the top pulley being so far from the smaller gears when running converted 1x 10spd cassette does result in slower shifting but it works reliably. I was happy with mine for the last 18 months. I just changed to full M8000 setup with the 11-46 cassette. Shifting is very much better - light, slick and near instantaneous in all gears. Just beware, based on current Shimano specs from their website (possible error) the M7000 long cage RD is for 3x systems and is 10speed and still only designed for max. 36t big cog on the cassette whereas the medium cage RD can take 11-46 in a 1x system or 11-42 on 2x systems but is designed for minimum 40t on the big cog which means the top RD pulley might be too far away for a standard 11-36t 10 speed cassette. If it works with your M8000 RD it will work with the M7000-GS RD. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  9. If the bike is new, ride it for a month or two to allow your body to adjust. If still unhappy then make changes. I'm no Pyga expert but if your height is borderline medium/large and feels too upright on a large frame then either you have unusually long arms and torso relative to legs or you're trying to achieve the wrong kind of fit for the bike's character. You don't say which Pyga model you have but consider that almost all of them are built for robust trail and enduro type riding. Even the Stage has a trailbike bias. So these bikes are designed for a stance based on allround riding including steep descents. This implies a more upright stance than a typical XC racing stance based on max efficiency and power which tends to place your body comparatively low and forward. Your options are any combination of moving your saddle back in its rails, going wider on the bars, longer on the stem, lower on the spacer stack and inverting the stem for negative rise. All will lower your stance on the bike and stretch you out a bit more. Saddle adjustments can be used to counteract, if necessary, the forward weight shift that wider bars or a longer stem will produce. Make your changes one at a time and keep them to 10mm increments or less. Keep a record of the changes. This will assist you to assess the effect of each change and also to return to your current baseline for which you probably paid some money. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  10. There might be a chip or firmware upgrade that can be applied. Ask this question on Outdoorphoto forum....I'm pretty sure someone there will know. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  11. DT Swiss 240s and get the 36 tooth or 54 tooth star ratchet if you can. Well made, extremely light, reliable, no-tool disassembly of the main components. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  12. As Chainsaw said... there may be air in the hydraulics. This causes spongy lever with weak braking. Before you go and bleed them, make sure the pad alignment is 100% and there is no contamination (oil, grease, even a greasy fingerprint can ruin braking). The cleaner/degreasers that some use on their bikes can contaminate brakes. Contamination can be cleaned by wiping with Isopropyl alcohol (disk and pads) or even better, acetone soaked into a clean rag. Remove wheels and pads from bike for this because acetone is a very strong solvent that can damage paint and even some resins used for carbon fibre parts. It will also dry out your skin so take steps to limit your contact with it. After the acetone, rinse parts in clean water and dry then refit. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  13. eish...ja...shims. BTDT.....creak creak creak with a rust-prone (i.e. expanding) steel shim in my carbon frame. It can work but no thanks. Sadly if Lyne had come to the market sooner with the right sized post I could have saved over R2k on the Transfer. My loss. Although happy with the Reverb Stealth on my old bike I don't see them selling too many more posts at those crazy prices now that decent competition has arrived. Transfer is half the price of a Stealth and its cable actuated mechanism much lighter and more controllable. The Lyne is half the cost again and using similar mechanism - cable actuated hydraulic post. It removes all the hassle of internally routing hydraulic lines and then bleeding them. Much better. They deserve to do well .... the timing just wasn't right for me. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  14. No, its long enough but sadly not available in 31.6mm with internal routing.....yet. I dare say the range will fill out in time Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  15. It's not the drop so much as the post length I needed. At about 88kg in riding kit I like to have more than the minimum 100mm of post in the seat tube. Hightower has a low top tube and short seat tube so it needs a lengthy post. Those that fit tend to have 150mm drop. 125mm Reverb dropper on my Tallboy LT was plenty enough drop for me but couldn't use it on the Hightower because of the smaller diameter and a little shorter in the frame than I was comfortable with. I'll be either selling it or using it on another build. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  16. Just to put the price in perspective - I was quoted R9k for a Reverb Stealth (150mm 31.6) for Hightower. Lyne unfortunately does not have a long-enough option yet so I ended up with a Fox Transfer which works great. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  17. I have M7R and H14 the last few years. Used for hiking, cycling and other. Both make pretty good cycling lights with the appropriate handlebar adapters. I can only think that if they produce a dedicated bike light it will be great. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  18. Think this is my next upgrade....keen to know how it pans out. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  19. Found I have to run much higher than expected pressures with the Evol air can on my shock....just to get the sag where it belongs....but it is a lot plusher on the initial travel and it doesn't want to bottom out either. Enjoy Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  20. Nice. Beacon Crags. Used to rock-climb there. How did you get access to ride there? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  21. Planning some 650+ wheels in future but my budget for this build is already blown. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  22. Yep. I was on WTB Freq. i23. Keen to see effect of wider rims. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  23. 29er. Hope4 on new Flows. Getting them tomo. Local trails in KZN midlands don't really need the plus wheels IMO. Mostly hardpack with some rocks and sticky mud that really builds up when we get wet weather ( if that ever happens again). But I have a set of plus wheels planned for some future adventures in more sandy terrain. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  24. Only 120mm. There's a bunch of long slack frames that need a bit more. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  25. Came across an almost new used frame this week. Waiting for some bits to build it up. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout