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JXV

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  1. JXV
    Running my Hightower with 150mm Pike on 29er wheelset. Rides great and no need to change the fork travel from140 to 150 if you fit a 27.5+ wheelset Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  2. JXV
    I have the same fork exactly. All you need for a lowers service is a decent lubricating oil of 15wt to 20wt. NOTE : lubricating oil, not hydraulic damper oil. There is a difference. In the days before Fox Gold, Fox used 10wt Green (lubricating) for lowers and 10wt Red for dampers. In a pinch you can use a 10W30 or 15W40 multigrade motor oil but I suggest you try and source a litre bottle of Fox 20wt Gold made specifically for this purpose. Slippery as live eels and you can feel the difference when you ride it. Been using it on my fork since new. You don't need damper oil ( Fox 10wt Red) or Float Fluid (Blue, approx. 80wt) for a lowers service but will need these or suitable alternatives for damper cartridge and airspring service respectively ( Your fork is the Factory Kashima version so guessing it has a FiT damper). Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  3. JXV
    Then a cleanout and reassembly should help. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  4. JXV
    Any stickyness on the rubber parts? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  5. JXV
    The black stains make me think the rubber seal has deteriorated. M8000 has not been long enough on the market for age to be the cause but I did hear that some early batches had issues. Can you confirm this brake was never exposed to DOT type brake fluid or oils other than Shimano mineral oil? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  6. JXV
    Lotsa Videos on the web. preferably use the ones on manufacturer's websites...they tend to avoid dodgy shortcuts that some of the private vids show...... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  7. JXV
    It really is an easy job but you do need a basic workshop with bike stand or soft jawed vice to hold the fork, a drip tray/bucket to catch the oil, a soft mallet and on some forks a long 10mm socket so as not to damage the damper shaft. 50ml syringe for measuring and inserting oil is useful too. You do not really need the special tools you see in factory manuals and videos for servicing lowers and seating new seals - you can make a plan with ordinary tools and still do the job perfectly. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  8. JXV
    If you use a torque wrench and do not overtighten the crush washers they can be re-fitted several times without leaking. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  9. JXV

    MTB Hubs Debate

    JXV replied to Caerus's topic in Technical Q&A

    Pro4 has larger diameter spoke flanges to give a slightly stiffer build. They are also now available in boost axle sizes (110/148 axles with spoke flanges about 6mm further apart). If you have non-boost Pro4 hubs you can also get endcap adapters to make them boost compatible. Final change is the slightly faster engagement....now 8.2° from 9° courtesy of a new 44 tooth drive ring. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  10. JXV
    Can't wait..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  11. JXV
    Great shot. I took the liberty of a bit of on-phone post-processing to give it more impact....hope you don't mind. Crop to adjust composition Brightness down to reduce exposure Saturation up a bit Colour temp 1 step warmer Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  12. JXV

    Review: Scott Spark 940

    JXV replied to Nick's topic in New Gear

    Agree with tester about the twin lock not allowing individual adjustment of front and rear suspension. I also like to leave my fork very plush and stiffen up the rear for pedalling sections of flat trail and for climbing. Also, speccing a 34-24 chainring set with 11-42 rear cassette in a 2x11 setup gives crazy low gearing. 38-28 would be much better, giving same low gear as 24 front with 36 rear but much more speed at the top end. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  13. JXV
    Check out their website. All the maps and access arrangements are thre. You can even download gpx maps of the trails for your gps. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  14. JXV
    Thanks. Was a great ride too...if a bit muddy. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  15. JXV
    Karkloof in the mist this morning Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  16. JXV
    Didn't see one. Legally in most countries it doesn't need one unless it exceeds a certain pressure and volume threshold....I don't recall the values applicable in SA legislation. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  17. JXV
    I have a high capacity 12V compressor in my 4x4. Remove tyre valve core, smear a little soapy water on the bead and compressor pipe direct onto valve tube. Hang the wheel from the tailgate. Never fails to seat the bead. Then fill sealant, fit the core and pump normally. I can see the advantage of this air tank on trips and in the race carpark if you don't have a compressor. 11 bar is enough. Most domestic and commercial compressors for air tools are regulated to 100psi (about 7 bar) so that's what you'll most likely fill it to. There is enough leeway for a hot car. But if you pump it to 11 bar then rather keep it cool. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  18. JXV
    Chartreuse... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  19. JXV
    Welcome! Maybe start a separate thread for your new bike query. Budget up to R30k puts some nice dual suspension bikes in the running if you are prepared to look at 2015 and 2016 old stock models - a really nice hardtail is also possible but your comfort will go up a lot more with dual sus. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  20. JXV
    In normal rear wheels the hub flanges to which the spokes attach are off centre to make space for the cassette, so the spoke angle is flatter on the drive side. The asymmetrical spoke angles result in the term "dish". This makes for higher spoke tension on drive side and makes the wheel less stiff than it could be but centres it in the frame. On the Stage the frame offsets the whole rear axle/hub assembly 5mm to drive side so the wheel rim must be shifted 5mm to left relative to the hub/axle in order to keep it lined up with the bike frame's centreline. This equalises spoke angle and tension somewhat making the wheel potentially stiffer for same average spoke tension. If converting an existing wheel the spoke lengths change less than 1mm so it may not be necessary to change the spokes if they are still healthy (but wiser to fit new if they are well used). Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  21. JXV
    So the cable routing under the BB looks scrappy.....but the internal routing wasn't used?
  22. JXV
    Check shock bushings first, especially if not replaced in 3 years. Your LBS should have replacements or can order them. If not bushings then methodically check each pivot point in rear suspension. Put a fingertip across the joint and then lift/lower the bike's rear end. You'll feel the play if there is any. Don't forget to also check headset and wheel bearings just in case. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  23. JXV
    Breaking in the new 1x11 groupset. Lots of mud. Hilton locals will know the spot. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  24. JXV
    Yes, if the M8000 RD works with her 10spd shifter on a 11-42 cassette then the RD M7000 GS will also work. The new 11speed RDs are designed for wide range cassettes with 40, 42 or 46 big cogs. To do this they position the top pulley further away from the axle than older 10 speed RDs. If you try to use an older 10 speed 11-36 or 11-34 cassette with 11speed RD you'll need to slacken the B screw and it may not be able to get the top pulley close enough. It will work but shifting could be slow or imprecise Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  25. JXV
    M7000 1x and 2x is 11 speed.M7000 3x is still 10 speed..... strange decision..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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