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You need ro spend a bit more than R5k to notice a difference. There are regular specials on Hope hubs with Crest/Arch/Flow rims in the R7k to R9k bracket. These are lighter stiffer and have faster freehub engagement than your current wheels. Going tubeless will also give a decent improvement in weight and ride feel Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

You should also be able to order from RS but dunno if the inporters keep stocks. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Your pedal would have gone wobbly long before the bearing wore down so much that the balls fell out allowing the inner to separate from the outer. Running maintenance for Candys includes regular inspection for play and regular flushing of the grease by replacing the end cap with the grease port and using a grease gun to displace old grease with new. Once the bearing gets free play the pedal wobbles on the shaft and this quickly damages the shaft seal, accelerating the deterioration. The stuck bearing race should come out easily but may now have corroded in place. The metal versions of Candy have two parts to the pedal body which can be unscrewed. I'm guessing the plastic body Candy1 is the same. When you separate the body halves the inner sleeve, spring and wings can be removed, you should then be able to drive out the inner. The other way is to beg, borrow or steal a slide hammer with expanding collets and use this to extract.... Like MphatiPyga I have also changed to Shimano trail pedals. They are not as good in mud as the Candys but the platform is more supportive and they need a bit less maintenance. I have the XTR version which has smaller shaft diameter than the others and needs more care. I just stripped and rebuilt them last weekend. Much more finicky inside than Candys. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Yeah I wasn't counting the hacksaw bodge when I wrote that. [emoji3] Not my style. My 10spd XT cassette worked perfectly with a Kalbo extender and 16t replacement. What eventually failed was the rivets holding the middle cogs to the spider - they came loose and started affecting shifts. I got about 7000km from that cassette. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Nice....just don't try pumping plus tyres to 17.0bar as depicted....[emoji48] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I disagree... M396 brake levers are not as powerful as the Deore series and the corresponding calipers use the B01S brake pad which is smaller than the various pads available for the Deore series brakes........ Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Just to clear up a few issues.... You said.......1) Deore shifters 2) 2x11 Current Deore shifters are 10 speed so I assume you are running a 11 speed M8000 RD with 10 speed cassette or with 11 speed cassette but using only 10 gears? ....or your system is 2x10. pls clarify? M396 brake levers are not i-spec compatible so I'm guessing your current Deore shifters clamp directly to the bar. Your new XT M8000 brakes can clamp directly to the bar alongside them and will work perfectly with separately clamped shifters. M8000 brake levers come in only one version that can be clamped separately from the shifters or, by removing a plastic insert, can accomodate mounting tabs for i-spec II shifters. If you upgrade to 11speed shifters in future you can order either the separately clamped version or the i-spec II version of XTR/XT/SLX. Be careful not to buy the i-spec B versions of these 11 speed shifters. They are available but intended for retrofit to older i-spec B brake levers and will not fit to M8000 brake levers. In summary there should be no need to worry about the brakes you ordered ...... the time to be careful is when you upgrade your shifters in future. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I had same discomfort and lowered my seatpost by 5mm. Sorted. Try it. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Ride for a few weeks and let your body adjust. Then fix only the stuff that still hurts . Adjust the saddle tilt to preference. Dont lower it until the angle feels right. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Even if you were fitter and stronger your legs would last longer if you could spin at a good cadence instead of mashing the pedals at slow cadence in a hard gear Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I took the previous version for a test ride and liked it. Very responsive when you mash the pedals and the ride was firm but very well controlled. Loved it. Its not a trail bike though and that's what I was looking for at the time. Would be on my shortlist if I was looking for an XC bike. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

This advice not workable with the OPs SLX cassette which does not have removable 15t or 17t cogs. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

What size wheels? Your 34t chainring with standard 11-36 chainring makes things quite tough on a 29er but should be OK for a 26 inch bike. Your cheapest fix is to go back to 2x10. Next cheapest is to change to a 32t chainring but if on a 29er this will still be tough on the hills and you will spin out quicker. You really need a wider range cassette. You cant convert an SLX 10spd cassette with a range extender because it doesn't have a separately removable 15t or 17t cog to make space for a 40t/42t cog. So if budget is tight go back to 2x10 until your current chain and cassette are worn out. In the meantime save for a wide range 10 speed cassette like the Sunrace and a pair of new chains to go with. It is cheaper than buying a new XT cassette and converting it with a range extender cog. You can also start saving for a 1x11 SLX conversion kit. This will cost more but comes with a new Shifter, RD, chain and 11-40 or 11-42 cassette. The SLX M7000 GS RD can also accommodate the new 11-46 XT cassette but avoid the long cage M7000 (SLX) RD as it is for the SLX 3x systems which remain 10 speed. I went the range extender route when I converted to 1x10 because I already had a lightly used XT cassette that was suitable for conversion. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

That 'XT' version of the Big7 has an SLX cassette and the M506 brakes are lower spec than Deore brakes which have similar hydraulics and pads to XT. The M506 uses a smaller B01S brake pad. So they wont give XT//SLX/Deore stopping power. These brakes may be ok but I feel the bike is misrepresented by the name. And then the Sola2 still has a superior fork. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Coat generously Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Yes the replacement seal has an upper (outer) lip which wipes dirt off the stanchion and a lower (inner) lip that keeps the oil in. Between the two is a space where the grease can be added. This helps to reassemble the stanchion into the lowers without damaging the seals. It also helps to reduce 'stiction' when the fork cycles under load. It needs to be a VERY soft thixotropic (shear thinning) grease like SRAM butter otherwise better to just rely on the same oil that you use for the lowers and foam rings. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Hi Alan. The lube you are going to put in your lowers is normally used to soak the foam rings as well. But use the sachet if you want to. IIRC Fox 34 takes 20ml in the lowers each side - I use Gold 20wt. The grease can be used on the rubber seal lip. There is a hollow space between the inner and outer seals. Pack it in there. OEM seals from RS come with this grease already applied. Again, for the Fox you don't really need the grease for a lowers service. You can just use the same lube oil you will put in the lowers . Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

T4A (Tracks4Africa) gives you routable GPS maps based on actual gps recordings of routes that travellers actually used. Backed up by a large scale paper map printed on waterproof Tyvek. The mapping software is available for various platforms including Garmin GPS and Android so you can plan on your PC at home and then download the route to a phone, tablet or GPS for the actual trip. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

A lot of bikes have either a steeply sloping top tube or a dip in the top tube to provide more standover clearance. Its helpful when you have have to stop and stand for an obstacle. If your bike's top tube doesn't give good clearance it will be mildly inconvenient when you stop but otherwise has no negative effect while riding. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I have a 2016 Pike 150mm and Fox 34 Factory 140mm on somewhat similar bikes. I prefer the feel of the Fox at speed but both are really good. For a Camber and at 120mm I'd buy the Fox 34 with Fit damper. The Pike also comes in different damper version and again I would recommend the better RCT3 damper. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Last time I looked at a Merida Big Nine XT edition the brakes were not XT, not even Deore which at least has the same hydraulics and power. Check carefully. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

What is your height and weight. The Silverback offers a much better fork and a better Rear derailleur with clutch (making it more suitable for a future 1x10 upgrade). Your specs don't list the brakes, hubs and rims on the Silverback. The Merida has centrelock hubs which lock you into buying Shimano centrelock discs.... you'll need an adapter to fit 6 bolt discs if you want to in future. Based on specs given here the Silverback is better value if it fits and rides well for you. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Fox Gold 20wt is incredibly slick. Well worth it IMO for lubricating lowers. I haven't come across anything that reduces 'stiction' quite as much. If you insist on a cheap alternative then fully synthetic engine oil is a better option than damping/fork oils. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

From LBS. They can order it. Fox shock overhaul kits come with a sachet of it. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Yes well....some local LBS are stocking the SKF kits but they are same or even more expensive than OEM from Fox. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk