JXV

Alan, my rule of thumb with all saddles has been to look forward over the groove at the back of the saddle (like a 'rifle sight' ) and aim the nose of the saddle at the top of the stem. Then fine tune for comfort from there. The back of the Power saddle should be in same place as your old saddle....bringing the shorter nose further back than before by 2 to 3 cm. So the new saddle might sit further back in the rails than before. I had to lower my post about 5mm and ended up also dropping the nose even further (aiming at mid stem now) . Everybody is different. A mate rides the nose of his saddle so high I cant sit on it but he is comfy. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Their ethical rules require them to treat you as a patient 1st and not as a sportsman. Some of the stuff on the WADA list is life saving or best choice, so they'll use it, especially in emergency. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

10 and 11 speed cassettes are wide and NW chainrings have longer teeth for chain retention so there can be more friction and wear if the chainline is off. The move to shorter chainstays and wider axles is also making the chain deflection more severe. The explosion of axle standards has also made the number of possible combinations go up exponentially ( actually factorially [emoji3] ) On 3x you would typically use all your gears in middle blade for short stints but if on a long hill or descent you would change to appropriate chainring and you could feel the improved efficiency. 1x does not give that choice. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Osprey is good quality stuff. The price is good. But this is quite a small pack. My Camelbak Lobo is 3litre bladder plus 6 litre storage for comparison. It can fit a light jacket, pump, one or two snacks, your phone, keys, spare tube and basic trailside tools. Thats it. Good for 3 to 4 hour rides. For all day exploring missions where you may want to carry more clothing and food and maybe a camera etc. a bigger pack would be better. The little ones become a bit uncomfortable if you stuff them too full. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I take issue with the mantra that you can't race if you aren't feeling well and requested some treatment. Not all illnesses are imminently life threatening or require you to immediately withdraw from a competition. The real problems are : -1 that the WADA infringements are based on qualitative detection. Even trace amounts that don't constitute sufficient dosage for a beneficial effect during the race can get you banned -2 the TUE process is too drawn out. A mechanism needs to be provided for an athlete receiving treatment during an event (stage race?) to submit TUE application and a 'before treatment' sample. Then go race. If the TUE is not subsequently awarded then at least the athlete was honest and does not deserve sanction for having that substance in his system. Results can be made provisional and prize money withheld until any pending TUE applications are finalised. -3 the current system requires us all to be medical experts. The issue of knowledge comes up frequently in these cases and I think the average athlete is not empowered to act appropriately under the current system. As a chemical engineer I can at least pronounce some of those names and I may even be able to guess the structure of some of them but I sure can't remember them all. And if I was nauseous and dehydrated in the medical tent before a stage then I doubt I would be thinking with any great clarity. -4 V12man is right that the doctor should treat the patient appropriate to the illness without restriction by sporting rules. But there is overlap....alternative drugs not on the WADA list may be useable. A doctor attending a competition should have some WADA knowledge and be able to advise their patients of the consequences of the treatment given. Perhaps WADA should offer courses and a protocol for medical professionals who can then become WADA certified and this certificate could be a factor in selecting medical personnel to attend at races. If this guy was genuinely doping then sanction him but there seems to be cause for doubt in this case. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The thing with potential energy (eg pressure) is that it becomes more hazardous when an accidental release is directed or concentrated. So a better way to reduce the hazard is to absorb/dissipate the energy. This is why I previously suggested using an old blanket Your cannon will be ok as long as it is restrained and both ends point at open spaces. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Basically you made a howitzer. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Yoh! R350!!! I bought a litre from my LBS for about R200 last year. The small bottles are even more overpriced on volume for volume basis but less $$$ and it has enough to bleed a brakeset front and rear if this only a once-off. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

order the Shimano stuff on line. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The B2 crank has a chainline designed for boost axle (148mm) bikes. If you have a boost axle bike all you need is the Shimano or other equivalent 96mm BCD NW chainrings ( I'm currently using Wolftooth). They have the spacer built in. You might need longer chainring bolts as the 2x chainring does not have the built in spacers. If your bike is not boost axle then you might have issues with chainline and you might need additional spacers to bring the chainring in a few mm. However since you are already using this crankset successfully in 2x11 on your bike I think just the 96 bcd NW will work. Choice of chainring size depends on wheel size, your fitness and riding area. If you are not using your easiest gears in your current setup then go with 34. Remember that your NW ring will be spaced further in than the big ring on your 2x11 setup. This might cause chainstay clearance issues if you go for a 36t or oval 34t. I can't run bigger than 34t round on my bike. Check out the clearance issue before spending $$$ on a new ring. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

My LBS (KZN) keeps various Shimano ballbearing sizes. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The main shafts are steel as in other pedals but of smaller diameter and the body is alu. The other main difference is that the body cover appears to be titanium instead of stainless or chrome plated steel. I suspect the smaller shaft and bearing diameter is the main cause of problems Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Shimano XT or SLX from either the current 11 speed or previous 10 speed series. If you need more power then go bigger on discs and consider ice-tech rotors too. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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ATF has additives that would not be used in the Shimano or equivalent hydraulic/braking oils. Its viscosity is also much higher and it is formulated for lower operating temperatures than might occur at the hot end of a braking system. So its ok in an emergency and should not cause any seal damage in the short term but I suggest flush it through and replace with the pink stuff soon as you can. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Compared to the Phenom that I was happy with the same size (143mm) Power saddle felt too wide and very short on longer rides. Two changes I made....nose down a bit more than previous saddle and lowered the seatpost about 5mm . Totally happy now. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Shimano top jockey wheel is assymetric. Shimano 11 spd chain is also directional. Did you fit the jockey wheel the right way around? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Since the XTR shafts and bearings are smaller diameter they are almost certainly less robust. Lightweight for racing = higher cost for less reliability. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Both XT and XTR have cup and cone bearings using same size 3/32" balls. The XTR uses 11 balls per set while XT uses 12 balls per set so presumably XTR has a thinner shaft for weight saving and this is likely the key difference in terms of durability The method of attaching pedal to the shaft assembly using a hollow lock bolt is common to both but in XT the lock bolt also includes the inner bearing cup whereas XTR has a separate sleeve inside the lockbolt for this. Download the ev diagrams from si.shimano.com if you're curious. In either case, due to the lock bolts, it is hard to see how the pedal body can separate from the shaft/bearing assembly unless either the shaft breaks or the bearing locknut at the end of the shaft comes loose. As with many Shimano products the seals are very light for low friction and need care. Once water gets in the pedal is toast unless you regularly strip and clean it. Pedals often get dunked in mud and water and only a single thin seal separates delicate steel parts from contamination. Using hosepipe or pressure sprayer to clean them is going to shorten the life. Suggest to regularly check and regrease your pedals. The lockbolt allows you to remove the pedal body without affecting bearing preload so regreasing is easy if the bearings are in order and dont need adjustment. ....any freeplay however.....increases wear on the seals so it means attention required otherwise they quickly go south. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

If referring to the cassette gear range.....you dont get 11-36 in Shimano 11 speed MTB cassettes. Your choices are 11-40, 11-42 and 11-46. I think sunrace offers the same but some with different gear spacing. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

In 2x10 XT Shimano makes the following front ring sets 24- 36 24 - 38 (AM) 26 - 38 (AK) 28 - 40 The 38 AK and AM rings have different shift ramps to suit the different small cogs but you can run a 24 with the 38 AK ring (I'm doing it and the shift quality is ok). You can run any of the 2x10 Shimano chainring sets with med cage (GS) rear derailler but the 24 - 38 is less stressed with the long cage (SGS) RD . The SGS RD is normally only needed for 3x10 systems. Gearing diff betwern 26er and 29er is 11% - i e same gears feel 11% harder/faster on the 29er. 38 front with 11t rear cog on 29er is not quite as fast as 44 - 11 top gear in 3x9 on a 26er. Also the 22-34 granny in 3x9 on 26er is slightly easier than 24-36 granny on 2x10 on a 29er. 3x9 simply has wider range than 2x10 but shifting on 2x10 Shimano kit is way superior. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

That shaft showing signs of some extreme wear/corrosion at the dust seal and I'm guessing this allowed water in, eventually causing bearing collapse. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

A regular lowers service is quick and easy. If the oil is cloudy or the foam rings stained with dirt then fit new seals too. A LOT of forks come from the factory with little or no oil in them. Seen this repeatedly on new forks from both RS and Fox. Bike mechs at my LBS confirmed they also see this regularly. Any new forks I buy from now on will get a lowers service before even riding it. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

You guys making me nervous...[emoji15] I ride XTR Trail pedals. A year now with no issues and they've endured a few big pedal strikes so hoping I got good ones . Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Just so everyone is on board with pressure....1 bar is approx 13.7 psi. So 100 psi = about 7 bar. Pumping stuff to this pressure also results in temperature changes that weaken the plastic. If you must do this with a PET soft drink bottle then cover the thing with a heavy blanket or two for safety when in use. 150psi in a 2 litre bottle becomes instantaneously about 20 litres when it bursts so placing a solid object like a drum over it for protection just makes a bigger missile. Be safe. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk