JXV

SRAM? If not changing down then either chain too tight or FD not pushing the chain across correctly. Agree with trying limit screw adjustment for the inner limit but also check FD alignment. When upside down chain hangs off top off sprocket under the FD and more easily deflected. When rubber side down the chain hangs a fraction lower and needs a bigger push to deflect it. So look at angle of FD to chainring from above and maybe adjust tail of FD in a fraction. If you are using a directional chain is it mounted the right way around?

PS also make sure u did not spill brake fluid on the new pads while bleeding the brakes

Are the old pads worn exactly parallel to the backing plate? If not this is a sign the calipers and new pads are not aligned to the disc. If the brakes were working well before changing pads this could be the reason. Juicys have those cone washers on the mounting that allow you to get the pads exactly parallel to the disc. Do this alignment first. Then if the brake levers still fell spongy air is the likely cause and bleeding is needed. It wont hurt to clean and gently sand the new pads by rubbing against fine sandpaper backed by a flat surface such as wooden block.

Good answer Johan. Roller bearing can tolerate higher loads than spherical (ball) type but there are other issues. Straight roller bearing cannot take any lateral loading. Tapered roller bearings (like on a car) can take side loading but are also wider/thicker than a ball bearing...thus heavier.....and they need to be precisely preloaded. Overkill for cycling if u ask me

BTDT. If you have rear sus then going SS when ur hanger breaks can be a problem. Most suspensions cause small changes in BB to axle distance as they flex. Every time the chain goes slack on suspension movement it wants to change up at the back and eventually it rides up onto the biggest gear it can and locks out the suspension. May go so tight you cant turn the cranks.....at which point you might break something if you keep riding. Emergencies only IMO. I always carry a spare hanger 'cos I never want to do this again>_>

Been running BFG A/T on Defenders and now on LC100 for yonks now. Routinely getting 100 000 to 120 000 km per set of 4. High price but low price/km. Next set now due will be same again.

Prefer the screw in Shimano BB with Hollowtech II cranks. Reasons: 1) I already have a spare BB (for my previous bike) 2) I already have the tools for fitting/removing it and it is an easier job than the press-fit. Was a factor in selecting a SC Tallboy LTc over a Spez Stumpy when I bought a bike recently. I think I would have enjoyed riding both bikes equally but for a home mechy like me the SC looked to be easier to maintain in the long run.

Dont delay going to the GP if you are still in pain after several days. He/she will be able to treat any real problems better than we can and will also lay out best options for fast recovery. Good luck.

Yes benzene is a known carcinogen but it is not the same as the benzine you buy in the supermarket. Note difference in spelling! Benzine is a petroleum distillate which usually contains only a small amount of actual benzene. The one with the 'e' is the bad stuff but you can't easily buy it in pure form. Flammability of both is far more of a direct risk to you than the chance of getting cancer from it ..... both options are horrible so rather dont use either.

Yes all flammable but petrol/benzine will produce a flammable vapour cloud above the liquid surface at room temperature. Paraffin does not. Bear in mind chain has ferrous metals. Can spark when dry. So can plastic containers (static) and synthetic clothing. People underestimate petrol all the time. You dont have to be smoking to set it off. To ignite paraffin at room temp you would have to actually touch a flame to the liquid surface so chance of accidental ignition is much less. Sorry for the sermon but if prevents just one accident out there I'm happy

Looking from behind I aim the nose of the saddle at the top of the steerer tube (stem)...then adjust for comfort from there. I guess the advice will vary depending how long your legs are and whether you like your bars high or low

Commercially available benzene is a petroleum distillate and doesnt contain much actual benzine (C6H6) which is a known carcinogen. Still dangerous though because very flammable

Benzene is basically low grade petrol. Both extremely flammable and have strong solvents that are not good for you or your skin. Paraffin much less dangerous. I soak the chain in it, shake it up a bit and scrub with an old toothbrush. Hang up to dry in the sun...then refit and lube. Not all chain components are corrosion resistant so I avoid water and degreaser as much as possible. Its a mountain bike - it doesnt have to sparkle

He said the SC Tallboy LTc meets your spec.....except maybe for the water bottle cage inside the triangle....... And they've been available for a while B)

I have 38/26 on my new 29er with 11-36 cassette. It is slightly harder on steep stuff than the 3x9 XT drivetrain on my old 26" bike but a bit more riding will soon sort that out.

How often are you using the 24 ring on your 3x system? I found that all it took was a determination not to use it. Within a few months of occasionally standing up to push hard in a bigger gear, my legs got stronger and soon I was only using 42t on my local trails. Some of my friends the same. Next question, what size wheels are you riding and what style of riding? If 26" then 40/28 should be OK. Anything shorter than 40 will irritate you on the flats but if you only ride rough twisty singletrack you could go shorter. If 27.5 I'd choose between 38/26 and 40/28 If 29er then 38/24 or maybe 38/26.

Standard 1/2" pipe has inner diameter of 15.8mm so that home-made adapter will be a bit of a loose fit on your finely machined 15mm alloy QR skewer and I suspect will eventually damage it. Considering the time it would take me to buy the bits and get them machined/welded - I would happily pay in the R300 to R400 range for a nicely made holder.

You have to decide if you want an adaptor to fit a 15mm thru-axle QR to a 9mm skewer type holder or if you want a 15mm QR holder that bolts onto your roofrack/carrier. In SA, Holdfast makes 15mm QR holder but I was recently told by the rep they have been asked not to sell them as they are modifying the design. I have not seen the Thule adapter in stock locally. Another USA brand to look at is RockyMounts but I think this will be expensive and I don't know if there is a local supplier. Will not be difficult to make this - I would do it if i had the machinery. Anyone with welding machinery and a lathe can do it. The dimensions for 15mm QR system are available online.

Latest & greatest, new, fashionable, lighter. Less of them so economy of scale also a factor. More desirable to the market = higher price. Things sell for the price the market will bear.

3 factors not mentioned; -if you ride mostly on prepared mtb trails the gradients are usually more friendly than unprepared stuff. If you like to explore then more gears can be nice. -don't forget if you are changing wheel size as well as gears (i.e. a new bike) then bigger wheels are harder to pedal with the same gearing - if you prefer spinning (high cadence) to pushing hard then reduced gear range will affect you more. Home turf for me is Hilton/Cedara/Karkloof. On my 3x9 26" bike I was only using big ring 42t for the local trails on a 11-36 cassette. Changing to a 29er I'm glad I went 2 x10 with 26-38 front on a 11-36 cassette. Dont use the small blade much on the trails but it is nice for exploring new ground which is much rougher and steeper at times

Reading the first post I was thinking it is cosmetic damage you can live with....then I saw the pics. Seller has clearly taken advantage of the anonymity/separation factor in online sales. Prob hoping the buyer will cave bcos other options all cost more or take more time. Thanks for the heads up on this seller.

It is extremely difficult to see the runout by removing disc and placing on a flat surface....much easier to see it by turning the wheel while observing the gap between pad and rotor at the caliper. If it is just touching lightly then bend by hand as so many here have already advised. Be careful because those edges are sharp.

Thanks. Phoned the guy. He hopes to have some stock in my area by next week.

Hi. Anybody know of a supplier for a 15mm QR bike mount that I can bolt onto my rack? Would prefer a standalone mount to an adapter that fits a conventional skewer type mount. Tks

Carbon or alloy? Does not look right.