grumpy

Hi Mike Please PM me on vnieuwb@gmail.com and I will get in touch with you. Thanks

You must have an internet connection and a PC, install Mapsource first and then the maps. The program will ask you to connect your GPS from which it will obtain the unit serial number before synch. The send the maps to the GPS, there will be an icon at the top of the program

Unlike Gamin, Navigon does not sell maps for South Africa separately, they only sell their GPS units loaded with he SA maps

I did and they stated that I should purchase the maps via Navigon Fresh, unfortunately maps for South Africa is not sold via Fresh...

Hi Hubbers I have a 2012 Navigon GPS that I recently purchased in Europe, problem is that I am unable to purchase South African street maps for the unit. Navigon is a Garmin product, but the Garmin maps don't work on it. Navigon recons that I must purchase a Navigon GPS in South Africa to get the street maps, thye don't sell the maps locally, SA street maps are also not sold internationally. So I am stuck with a unit that will only work in Europe and America. I am trying to get in touch with a fellow hubber in the Cape Town area who has a Navigon GPS loaded with South African street maps, its fairly easy to copy the maps. In exchange for the South African street maps I will give you Europe 2012 street maps. Please PM me you are willing and able to help. Thanks

I have been cycling in the early morning for a few years, from the time when we had those little blue lights to the most recent ones, one thing that I have experienced is that the usable light on the road or track cannot be determined by the claimed lumens. About 2 years ago I purchased a Hope Vision 4, 1000 lumen light with 2 battery packs, it gave a brilliant light for about 15 meters and then nothing, my morning rides are done on tar with my road bike and I often reach 60 km/h on the down hills, so this light was not suitable, by the time you would spot the pot hole it would be too late. I sold that light and purchased a Light & Motion Seca 900, this light was tested at 950 lumens, that sets this light apart is the brightness and depth of vision, it easily lights up the road for about 50 meters, on flashing mode it lights up the red triangles on the road 300 meters away. The only problem with this light is the cost, it is expensive. I have not personally experienced the 2000 lumen light that you wrote about but I have ridden with guys who have the 1000 lumen Magic lights, when we ride together their light spot on the road dissapears when the L&M Seca is switched on, no comparison in light on the road. The difference between the two lights is not in the lumens output but in the lens and reflector, you need a fairly deep reflector to get decent depth of field and the Magic lights (same for the Hope light) simply don't have that If you ride trails at a slower pace or just wants to be seen and have some light on the road then a 1000 lumens Magic light is fine, maybe the 2000 light one will be better.

I have done more than 4000km on a XX 10 speed cassette, I also cross chain all the time (2 x 10 setup) but I replace my chains after 800km The cassette is still going strong...

Chainreaction Cycles and CWC both sell the XX XG 1090, yet the SRAM website list only the XX XG 1099. Both descriptions look the same, maybe there is no difference aside the number or 1099 could be the 2012 version. I have used both the PC 1090 and PC 1091, both work equally well, the weight and price being the only difference

We have both the 2012 Shimano XT and SRAM XX, the SRAM is lighter and better with regard to shifting, it's more precise by far. But the Shimano XT has better brakes. Personally I think the best groupset would be an XX groupset with XTR brakes or even better the Formula R1 brakes.

It would be interesting to know why you moved from Formula R1 brakes to XTR, the Formula R1 is claimed to be the best brakes, very light with enormous brake power.

I think a lot of blokes who can't afford expensive bikes and who does not want to discipline themselves to stay slim have this attitude, personally I have no problem with it but it isn't for me, I would rather eat less, be slim and climb like a rocket and be slow and struggle in the hills...

I am using Racing Ralph Evo's, they are even lighter than the snakeskins, but you have to use sealant. Don't think there is a big difference between the snakeskin and the UTS in terms of weight At first I was unsure how long the tyre would last vs. the Maxxis Crossmark UST I used previously but they are tough, have done numerous rides over rocky terraign with no punctures, will never go back to UST tyres again.

I took my MTB to VPS (Vehicle Protection Systems) they use a 3M product designed for cars and bakkies. Covered the top tube and down tube with a clear film, it's nearly invisible, cost R600 for 2 bikes This stuff is to tough that you struggles to scratch the film with a screw driver, even if you manage to damage the film the under laying carbon / frame is undamaged. Note that they don't like to fit this stuff on bicycles as it is larbour intensive and their income suffers as a result, but if you ask nicely and if they have time on their hands then they will help you, alternatively you can purchase the film from them and stick it on yourself, but it's not easy doing the whole frame professionally. www.vps.co.za

I basically do everything from flat gravel to cycling in Bottelary Hills where is a couple of steep climbs and descents, the route differs from jeep track to single track, also did not encounter any problems doing Magic Forrest or Meerendal single tracks. The set-up just works well

I had a 80 - 100mm Sid XX WC on my previous Anthem Advanced SL, that was a medium frame, I did not like the handling of the bike and swopped the frame for a large Advanced SL with a 120mm Sid XX WC with a 15mm through axle. The whole bike handles better, this was the best move I could have made, the bike is also more stable, have no problem with steep inclines or declines. The most travel I got out of the fork after a big hit was about 100mm, maybe my fork set-up is preventing it from travelling more... Irony is that the bike is lighter... Go for it

I have both the Road carbon and the MTB carbon shoes, by far the best I have ever had and that includes Sidi's and Time shoes

I did the race last year with my wife, it is not too technicical, the only issue was that the race officials were few and scarce, there was about 15km of sand to transverse per day, the route on the beach was also not well marked. I really hate to walk, had to walk several times when the sand was too soft or the stones on the beach too loose, not willing to repeat the exercise.

Eishh Now the 29ers will go after Greg Minaar, bro you have opened a can of worms here, don't you know that the only thing bigger than a 29inch wheel is the owners sensitivity on the subject...

Not sure if the IceTec rotors will work with X0, but I think they should. Don't be influenced by the negative comments on the X0, I have XX and never had a problem, having said that my wife have the new 2012 XT brakes with the IceTec rotors and thye must be the best brakes I have ever seen, Chris Willemse currently have a special on them for R2390 for a set.

If the 29ers are that good why is there so many for sale on the Hub? Maybe we should start a poll and ask the blokes who sold 29ers what their reasons were, could be very enlightning..

Stan A warm up ride before the race will help but its not the only answer, rather do interval training at least once a week, that will prepare you for a fast start and when the bunch decides to speed up

Only softies shave their legs, real men wax them, they can handle the pain...

Hi Georges I also have a XX groupset, due to the high cost to replace the cluster I change the chain every 800km, also don't do more than 2 rides before I clean the chain and re-lube.

Hi Zac.A The Mavic Ksyriums is amongst the lighest clincer wheels that you can buy, the Brontager and Easton wheels are not lighter. Think you will be wasting your money to replace Ksyriums with similar weight clincer wheels, the obvious choise to loose weight is tubbies, think you can lose about 200gram on some tubbies, but they have their own problems, if you get a flat your race is over.... Consider putting tubeless tyres on the Ksyriums, I did, their are lighter than normal tyres (without the tubes in any case) and their don't go flat easily when punctured, the ride quality is on par with tubbies. Go to www.probikekit.com if you are interested in road tubeless tyres, Look at the Hutchinson Atom or Fusion

This is the problem with a 29er, you can't simply move a crankset from a 26er, the chainrings needs to be smaller. Have discussed gearing for 29er with a ex pro recently, his advice is to go for a 36 chainring as the large one, not sure what options are for the smaller chainring