dollar

Sorry - what is a "bridal" path - brides use it and you get bliksem'd if you do?

JB is right. Had another look. Repair would last about 5 minutes.

Dont toss it. Sell it to me. It is repairable - but it's risky in that it may last or may just break again. If you want to take a chance and repair it then PM me - I will put you in touch with a old chap who does specialised welding. Also - the paint job is going to be history!

My experience is that it is often a loose crank. Have you tweaked the 2 bolts a tad? My pug used to just catch the lug of the BB with the crank spider caused a tick. The shaft was not far enough "away" from the BB.

Ha Ha! Thats why the cousins here ride at 250! Makes the straight roads a tad more twisty Nothing under a 600 works?

Agreed Tarmac - except that I would tend to shy away from the exotic 400's like the VFR400's. Too complicated.

Hi Brenda - try the forum below - they will help you with a motorcycle. This is only for pedal bikes http://forum.thinkbike.co.za//forum.php

Ha ha. Been there - diet for my MTB, slicks, taller gears ....... Then I pulled my old racer from storage and the road got a whole lot easier. Use the right tool for the task at hand

The motorcyclist. May have been this accident? http://forum.thinkbike.co.za//showthread.php?t=36063

I figured out my problem by the way. Not using the correct chain. Also using different components that are not 100% compatible with each other To make up for this I have had to "spread" the front cage with my trusty longnose. All is well now - maybe a slight rub on 12/42, but otherwise it works perfectly. So - the bottom line is that you can take a "stew" of components and get them to work together. I take back all the bad things I said about these STI's. Sorry Shimano.

Ja - there does appear to be a primitive form of trim. Shimano says so in their tech doc - BUT it involves pushing the "b" lever - how do you trim it back?

Tried that. The problem is that the STI only throws the cage out so far when changing to the 53. This is far enough for a slick change without the chain coming off, but not far enough to prevent the far side of the cage to rub the chain (slightly) when on the small (12) cog at the back. The limiter is not even engaging. Now if you mess with it and tighten the cable to get the cage to change further then you end up with the same problem on the small chainwheel when using the largest back cog - which the wife uses often up hills! I suppose I could tweak it a bit more (pliers) - but I am nervous of causing other k@k

I "Vrystaad'ed" the cage a tad with a longnose (suggested by TNT) - now I only have one slightly scratchy ratio - 12/42. No great problem.

Mampara - Ja, I have been enlightened - 12/13/14 to 42 are out the window. I will try expain this to the boss. It is Shimano - old 105.

Ja - I had just finished teaching my better half how to perfect the downtube shifters and she was getting pretty slick. Watching her fight with the new (old actually) STI's is quite amusing. She says that it is more convenient, but she is so used to the old ones she says that she is not really that fond of them yet. Maybe it grows on her?

Thanks Johan. I thought I was being dumb. My wife is going to bleat though - to her there is no such thing as an illegal gear

Forgive my frustration, but I really battle with these things. I grew up with friction shifters and graduated some years ago to index shifters - Suntour being my all time favourite. Fortunatly I ride classic bikes (me being a bit of a classic myself) but my wife has been told that she has to have STI's so I have retired her 83 Fuji Opus and built her a small alloy bike (that weighs a few grams less than the Fuji - ha ha). I am also upgrading an old Cannondale to STI's for me, when I find some OK - here is the problem - back STI works 100%. Front works but "rubs". There is no %%$#$# way that I can see to stop this! Now on an 'old shifter" I could just tweak the front a touch to stop the rub but no such "tweak" with an STI! How do you get around this?

I second - Paul at Procycles in Benoni. By nervous of Ian - he can be grumpy - particularly when you ask him for a screw on cluster from 1975

LEKKER bike. Well done!!

Take it to the LBS and ask them to measure it with a vernier. It could be 26.8, 27.0 or 27.2 ??

There is obviously a fixed relationship between cadence and speed - but PER GEAR RATIO. You could work out a rough indication that would tell you that in top (say 11/53) at 30kph your cadence is around 60 rpm.

Jeez Tienieb - well spotted! Here is a chance to score a Zillion points worth of customer loyalty and goodwill. Good luck and I really hope that the proud Subaru owner gets sorted!

Just a quick note on oil - synthetic oil lasts (almost) forever. The problem is the suspended k@k in it. But dealers dont use synthetic because it's very bad for business. JB is 100% on the mark. Modern cars should cost about R500 to service (not major) and they (the dealers) (drug dealers?) do almost zero. To the Renault hubber - pray that your clutch never goes! Cost to replace = R35000!!!!!! To the oke who likes Honda - engineering at its best BUT you have to have a dealer who knows what he is doing or else all that clever engineering is going to rip your nuts out. Finally, be clever and buy a second hand Toyota!

Agreed. The thing is that in this case, the current limiting and temp sensor is with the light and the charger is nothing more than a mains transformer. So - you can use pretty much any "power supply" - as long as the voltage is correct and it can supply the current required - in this case 800 ma. In fact you could charge this light off a car battery!

Quote [ If you cannot find a replacement give the old one to an electronics guru. Power supplies are not that hard to decode. The flashing lights in the light that indicate charging/full, suggest that it's a dumb charger - the brain may be in the light? ] The brain is in the light?