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Lance Stephenson

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  • Province
    Western Cape
  • Location
    Grabouw

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  1. I would recommend you speak to Robbie at RBC in PE. https://www.rbco.co.za/index.php?route=suspension/servicepricing
  2. Namgear Bike Polish is good for bike and tyres. Doesn't effect brakes
  3. Take the battery out the H7, turn the battery around the wrong way and insert it for 10 seconds. then install normally and try again. This normally resets the "cache" on the unit and reboots it.
  4. You need the Mavic pads. those rims won't handle the heat from a normal pad and will be very noisy. You will destroy the rims without the exalith pads
  5. @ttona33I bet that if you look at your cleat position that they are very far forward and under your toes. This is the most common reason for HOT FOOT, the pressure under your toes is pinching the nerves and starts with "heat" sensation and turns into pain. Cheap fix, move the cleat backward towards the heal (as far as it can go) remember that shoes have 4 cleat bolt holes, you want the cleat in the furthers back holes. This will effectively relieved the pressure and increase comfort. It will also increase foot stability whilst pedalling.
  6. Are you by any chance riding in a place with direct sunlight hitting the unit? I know and have experienced athletes riding in winter near windows and the sunlight hits the sensor and interrupts the signal and confuses the sensor. (the fly wheel had the stripes on for the sensor to read speed ) perhaps this may be your issue?
  7. OK, I love the sentiments here. Ash is one hell of a force in Women's cycling, she has raced and won, podiumed and voiced her opinion on equality in the peloton of pay vs men.......she is a champion for cycling on and off the bike. I agree, Ash is our darling......but we as a culture favour men's racing over women......Hence the "Greg is the GOAT".........but I don't think comparing is fair. Firstly the race scene for DH, XCO, TRACK and ROAD is truly so different. Grand Tour riding is a whole level of pain, day In day out. DH is intense, focus SKILLS, and guts......you can't compare . If you ask Ash, she'll say Greg is the best. If you Ask Greg he'll say Ash is.......their understanding of their sports is so that they can see the merits of each. I just feel that Ash has never received enough credit for being so bloody good, consistent and amazing.
  8. I think that getting yourself to a bike fitter is your best solution. Having an issue in the thumbs isn't necessarily the origin of the problem. Having said that, 12 degree bars at width "was supposed to be more ergo" than tradition 5-6 degree bars yet I've experienced the same issue. Rolling them back or forward helped in someways and in others made new issues. I can tell you that having a long stem and to much height can cause the same problem with a 5-6 degree bar, and having excessive seat height with the saddle more forward can cause the same thing..... So, get yourself to a fitter who will look at your setup as a whole and then adjust to help you. Personally I have gone to a more neutral bar of 5 degree and found more comfort.
  9. pretty much al bikes do this now due to shape of teeth for shifting Up smoothly and the chamfer on the chain to glide up (all in the direction you pedal) so obviously if you back pedal it will want to hop down. If you put the chain in a straight line (middle of your cassette) the problem won't occur. It's the price you pay for much better up shift performance and 1x set ups. Plus, I think if you are trying to back pedal on a steep climb then I think that is actually your bigger issue
  10. OK, buying a shoe one size bigger is actually the worst thing you can do, the Last of the shoe changes (we call the shoe shape "The LAST") and therefor the cut in for the toes changes position a shoe size up and you create other problems. Buying a shoe that is wide enough is you first port of call. Second to see if the Last suits your shape. (some peoples feet go wide on the outside so they need more support there and others go wider on the inside.) Lake Shoes are renown for the widest range of wide shoes PLUS shapes of Wide shoes. Honestly I have 3 pairs and I can tell you that I can wiggle my toes freely because my feed spread under load in the shoe but the shoes aren't "too big". the cut o the shoe hold my feet nicely in place but I have toe room (side to side). Secondly you cleat positioned too closely to the front of the shoe is a major known reason for numb and hot foot syndrome. Between these 2 things you should find a solution. Some smart arse here will say "just try the cleats further back on your existing shoes then" but I will say, and all bike fitters will agree that a shoe that is bought one size too big is not correct.
  11. I can tell you this, as a coach and "athlete" spending time in the gym to work Core (which isn't your stomach/6 pack) and getting hips stabilised and stronger, glutes firing on a regular basis and bending backwards will help you immensely in general. (Your doctor and physio need to sign you off to do these things and your physio needs to supervise these). Lifting some weight and working muscles that get weak from a seated position (desk jobs) is the major culprit for most of the issues you face along with a weak pelvic hurdle and core. I say, do the workouts, it's cheaper than surgery AND if you strengthen these areas first you can reverse some of you pain and possible improve your outcome IF you have to end up having surgery as the spine will be more supported. It will also shorted you recovery time and IMPROVE the recovery itself. I have/had back pain, since gyming and working deadlifts and core stuff......the pain is 80% gone. I'm still working it and it's better and doesn't govern my day or distract me any longer .
  12. Bikes are expensive to ride and parts are pricey to replace. Mostly if you had done more regular service services your overall price of parts may have been staggered over a more palatable time period. Honestly bikes wear and parts don't last forever. Suspension parts are worth spending good money on to service and keep in good shape because parts are MOER expensive when having to replace worn out bits. As a bike geek, I often get asked how much a full service costs. I have to tell you that Unless I know your bike history intimately that is not an answer I would give without giving the bike a tertiary inspection, and even then I would prepare you for "incidentals" because some parts you only know have to be replaced when they are stripped down. So the shop is right in their labour charge, and they are also right in giving you the quote once they really see what the issue is. Not charging you oil or consumables, that's a fight or argument you can have. I think they have been quite thorough with their assessment and they are trying to make sure that once they do the job that they don't have a "come back" because they didn't replace an iffy or "so so" part which would be really bad. I think a conversation in person with them is necessary for you to get to the bottom of this.
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