Lance Stephenson

Speak to Louise, she will direct you to Jason directly.

I don't know when last you had a proper "check under the hood" with a doctor BUT, I did one In Feb and it was eye opening. Over 40 years of age you should be having regular check ups to have baseline to reflect off so you know when things change. DO THIS NOW. Don't waste time. You will need to speak with your physician about drawing blood samples, and poo sample. You should get a prostrate check and have, MOST IMPORTANTLY, a physical assessment done, VO2, flexibility and fitness test. These results need to be looked at, and a physician would need to guide you on where you are and then take in your own observations of your "energy" or fatigue. I did mine with Dr Jason Suter at Cape Sports Med (at Newlands, Sports Science building). I don't know who I'd trust as an "athlete" other than their practice as GPs are not in tune with the athletic demands like CSM Drs are. I personally have a long standing relationship with my GP BUT he has no performance oriented medical experience. MY suggestion is speak with Louis Fabris at the practice and ask her for 5 min to ask her opinion of who may be of value to you in Gauteng to offer a similar service. Louis held my hand through the whole process, was extremely compassionate and professional, the whole experience was incredible . I hope you can find a solution like I did and have a great experience in the process. +27 (21) 659 5644

I would recommend you speak to Robbie at RBC in PE. https://www.rbco.co.za/index.php?route=suspension/servicepricing

Namgear Bike Polish is good for bike and tyres. Doesn't effect brakes

Take the battery out the H7, turn the battery around the wrong way and insert it for 10 seconds. then install normally and try again. This normally resets the "cache" on the unit and reboots it.

You need the Mavic pads. those rims won't handle the heat from a normal pad and will be very noisy. You will destroy the rims without the exalith pads

@ttona33I bet that if you look at your cleat position that they are very far forward and under your toes. This is the most common reason for HOT FOOT, the pressure under your toes is pinching the nerves and starts with "heat" sensation and turns into pain. Cheap fix, move the cleat backward towards the heal (as far as it can go) remember that shoes have 4 cleat bolt holes, you want the cleat in the furthers back holes. This will effectively relieved the pressure and increase comfort. It will also increase foot stability whilst pedalling.

Are you by any chance riding in a place with direct sunlight hitting the unit? I know and have experienced athletes riding in winter near windows and the sunlight hits the sensor and interrupts the signal and confuses the sensor. (the fly wheel had the stripes on for the sensor to read speed ) perhaps this may be your issue?

OK, I love the sentiments here. Ash is one hell of a force in Women's cycling, she has raced and won, podiumed and voiced her opinion on equality in the peloton of pay vs men.......she is a champion for cycling on and off the bike. I agree, Ash is our darling......but we as a culture favour men's racing over women......Hence the "Greg is the GOAT".........but I don't think comparing is fair. Firstly the race scene for DH, XCO, TRACK and ROAD is truly so different. Grand Tour riding is a whole level of pain, day In day out. DH is intense, focus SKILLS, and guts......you can't compare . If you ask Ash, she'll say Greg is the best. If you Ask Greg he'll say Ash is.......their understanding of their sports is so that they can see the merits of each. I just feel that Ash has never received enough credit for being so bloody good, consistent and amazing.

Get Hold of Robbiesbicycleconcept in PE

I think that getting yourself to a bike fitter is your best solution. Having an issue in the thumbs isn't necessarily the origin of the problem. Having said that, 12 degree bars at width "was supposed to be more ergo" than tradition 5-6 degree bars yet I've experienced the same issue. Rolling them back or forward helped in someways and in others made new issues. I can tell you that having a long stem and to much height can cause the same problem with a 5-6 degree bar, and having excessive seat height with the saddle more forward can cause the same thing..... So, get yourself to a fitter who will look at your setup as a whole and then adjust to help you. Personally I have gone to a more neutral bar of 5 degree and found more comfort.

pretty much al bikes do this now due to shape of teeth for shifting Up smoothly and the chamfer on the chain to glide up (all in the direction you pedal) so obviously if you back pedal it will want to hop down. If you put the chain in a straight line (middle of your cassette) the problem won't occur. It's the price you pay for much better up shift performance and 1x set ups. Plus, I think if you are trying to back pedal on a steep climb then I think that is actually your bigger issue

OK, buying a shoe one size bigger is actually the worst thing you can do, the Last of the shoe changes (we call the shoe shape "The LAST") and therefor the cut in for the toes changes position a shoe size up and you create other problems. Buying a shoe that is wide enough is you first port of call. Second to see if the Last suits your shape. (some peoples feet go wide on the outside so they need more support there and others go wider on the inside.) Lake Shoes are renown for the widest range of wide shoes PLUS shapes of Wide shoes. Honestly I have 3 pairs and I can tell you that I can wiggle my toes freely because my feed spread under load in the shoe but the shoes aren't "too big". the cut o the shoe hold my feet nicely in place but I have toe room (side to side). Secondly you cleat positioned too closely to the front of the shoe is a major known reason for numb and hot foot syndrome. Between these 2 things you should find a solution. Some smart arse here will say "just try the cleats further back on your existing shoes then" but I will say, and all bike fitters will agree that a shoe that is bought one size too big is not correct.

Your headset may be loose.

BUD, have you tried sending your stuff To RBC in PE?

I can tell you this, as a coach and "athlete" spending time in the gym to work Core (which isn't your stomach/6 pack) and getting hips stabilised and stronger, glutes firing on a regular basis and bending backwards will help you immensely in general. (Your doctor and physio need to sign you off to do these things and your physio needs to supervise these). Lifting some weight and working muscles that get weak from a seated position (desk jobs) is the major culprit for most of the issues you face along with a weak pelvic hurdle and core. I say, do the workouts, it's cheaper than surgery AND if you strengthen these areas first you can reverse some of you pain and possible improve your outcome IF you have to end up having surgery as the spine will be more supported. It will also shorted you recovery time and IMPROVE the recovery itself. I have/had back pain, since gyming and working deadlifts and core stuff......the pain is 80% gone. I'm still working it and it's better and doesn't govern my day or distract me any longer .

Bikes are expensive to ride and parts are pricey to replace. Mostly if you had done more regular service services your overall price of parts may have been staggered over a more palatable time period. Honestly bikes wear and parts don't last forever. Suspension parts are worth spending good money on to service and keep in good shape because parts are MOER expensive when having to replace worn out bits. As a bike geek, I often get asked how much a full service costs. I have to tell you that Unless I know your bike history intimately that is not an answer I would give without giving the bike a tertiary inspection, and even then I would prepare you for "incidentals" because some parts you only know have to be replaced when they are stripped down. So the shop is right in their labour charge, and they are also right in giving you the quote once they really see what the issue is. Not charging you oil or consumables, that's a fight or argument you can have. I think they have been quite thorough with their assessment and they are trying to make sure that once they do the job that they don't have a "come back" because they didn't replace an iffy or "so so" part which would be really bad. I think a conversation in person with them is necessary for you to get to the bottom of this.

Your shifting issue is related to the clutch being dry and too tight out of the factory. Back off the clutch pressure and see if this improves things. We solved the exact problem you describe this way at Tankwa Trek. The shifting was so bad at one stage we replaced sifters thinking it was the problem, mean time, a 2min clutch lube and tension adjustment and the shifting was pristine as XTR should be. Bleeding wise, Going slow is the key here. These breaks are ultra simple.I presume you are using the supplied Shimano bleed blocks? Bleeding is an artwork and should not be rushed (after all it is a safety mechanism on your bike). What I do to finish a bleed, I remove the bleed block and pump the lever once to push the pistons out. I only do a slight sliver of piston on each side. Then I take bleed block that is about the size and then put that between the pistons (so the pistons are sticking out more and the bleed block is narrower) the I bleed some more. I also stress you just have the lever reach out quite far for a large hand to get a better bleed. Once I get a firm feel with this, I remove the thin block, use a plastic tyre lever and gentled push the pistons back, quite slowly and gingerly. I bleed with the normal bleed block and the brake feels hard usually.

Difficulty to say, I personally enjoy a narrow ESI silicone grip (small circumference means your hand can cup the grip without tensing and not use to much energy, where a large diameter grip is requiring your grip strength to be on all the time) then I wear a glove that has zero padding. for the same reason and to not have HIGH or LOW spots on the grip. I wear a Medium to a Large glove for reference. The reason I se people struggle with hands, is due to gripping so firmly on the grips, so they buy padded gloves and fatter grips which actually makes it worse. Holding the grip just lightly but enough that you don't slip is the correct way to hold the bars.

Nickel Compound for dissimilar metals. Copper Compound for same metals/although in application specific. (big threads with low pressure (under 20nm in my experience is good). smaller threads with higher pressure (over 40nm then a teflon grease is better) . tiny threads like stem bolts, a drop of wet oil is great.

I second this. The H10 Strap also has a built in memory that can store one ride worth of data which is very useful when devices spaz

LAKE SHOES. Each size comes in the standard (which is already roomy), half size and then WIDE. so eg. 44 , 44.5, 44 WIDE and 44.5 WIDE..........BEST Shoes I can recommend

OMG, this is what I love about MARKETING, " this bike will save a rider an average of 45sec over 40km". Sounds amazing..........AT WHAT AVERAGE SPEED DO YOU NEED TO RIDE TO GAIN THAT ADVANTAGE?

Phone Marc Fourie 0837795879, he Is a great guy and qualified coach

As a wheel builder, my advice to you is to buy well, don't buy on weight but on ride quality/intended use and longevity. Wheels that I have built for customers have lasted them years, they all started wanting the lightest wheels but I instead convinced them to add 50g here and there for brass nipples and a stronger wider rim for better quality of ride. ALL of these riders still have these wheels, never had to true them and enjoy a better riding experience. Stan's make a great race day product for experience lighter riders, but still doesn't make them a"great" product. If you ride this one bike only, Don't spec your "race day " setup for everyday use, that's just like wearing a condom all the time for in case you have sex today.....I don't mean to be ugly here. I'm just saying spec the bike for what you do everyday and you will enjoy an amazing ride. I'd rather have slightly stronger wheels and the best quality tyres, than ultra light flimsy rims and average tyres. tyres ARE the only thing touching the ground so you want that to be the best you can buy and replace often for best performance, NOT the rim.