Eugene

Huh?

Its already been mentioned, but I'm placing my money on a worn drop out. Someone mentioned dishing your wheel. I don't think that is the issue here, but dishing may actually help. With time the dropout will wear more and you'll be back where you were. You don't mention what the dropouts are made of, but carbon dropouts have a reputation for wearing.

Just looking at the Axis sizing chart, it seems as if your son would need a large frame. Not sure what the size of the Axis he has shown you. Personally, as a 16 year old, I would also prefer the more modern 29 inch as well.

R2000 sounds about right, assuming the shifting issues are only due to it standing and not more sinister. If tubes are needing to be replaced, factor in some tyres too as they could also be perished. You don't mention the age or height of your son, but an XL is a big bike. Are you sure that it is going to be the right size for him?

Thanks..... I'm still 2minded if I should give it a try. I suppose if it doesn't work I'll have to cough up a few hundred bucks for someone to fix my mistakes. If I take it to a bike shop, I'll have to cough up a few hundred bucks anyway. But, I don't want a cracked rim

In principle, dishing a wheel sounds quite easy, but how difficult is in in practise? If I tighten/loosen each spoke half a turn, will it have the desired effect or will it destroy the trueness of the wheel? I want to try it myself before it gets sent off to a professional.

Having been here so long there are a few things I miss. One is the membership. There was a time that anyone and everyone in the cycling world was a member. From importers, distributors and manufactures to professional cyclists, mechanics and team owners. These people gave us unique perspective and were on hand to settle any arguments.

I was sure I was here from the begining. But according to my profile, it's only been 18 years and I was number 19000 odd. Does this mean that there were already 19000 members before me?

From my understanding of the anodizing process, nothing can touch the aluminum, that means removing the levers.

I still have 5600 105 on my road bike. The shift levers are aluminum with a slight, dark tint to them. The levers were corroded quite badly, so I sanded them down and polished them up and they almost new again, except the tinting is gone. I would like to have them tinted again. Any idea how I could go about this? Any ideas? I was thinking of spraying them with a tinted clear coat, but not sure if the paint will stick to the polished aluminum. Another option, would to wrap them in vinyl, but not sure if this would work. I don't think they can be anodized. I assume the lever will have to be removed completely.

Other than a small handful of entry level road bikes, you will find it a tough ask to find a rim brake bike in a bike shop.

My 2005 Raleigh RC6000. I built it up with the black Shimano 105 groupset. The white frame, with black parts just looked so much better than white with the original silver parts. I wish I had never sold it....... Everytime I see one for sale, I debate in my mind if I should buy it.

Put an ad in the classified section with some photos. It will increase your chances of a sale

Hopefully you are insured and can get 2 new bikes before you go.

I am trying very hard to figure out how the saddle bag is even making contact with you and causing chaffing Please upload a Pic of your setup

Maybe the asking price is too high in the first place.

I have never, in 20 odd years of cycling, taken my bike to a bike shop. I have always done my own servicing. I've always had a hardtail and road bike. I recently built up a full suspension, using second hand parts, so I guess there are no warranties that I need to worry about. The shock needed to be pumped so I took it to a bike shop to be pumped. Once pumped, the mechanic noticed a creak and told me I needed a full shock service at R2, 800. Took it home, stripped every single bush and bearing, relubed where I could..... Problem solved. No more creaks. So, did my shock really need a service? It works perfectly. I realise it will at some point need a service. I have been watching videos on how to service it and I am wondering how the heck do they get to R2, 800.

With a 22 upfront and a 42 at the rear, you won't be going anywhere. Your legs will be spinning like crazy and you won't be moving forward. You'll probably just fall over

These things are like hens teeth..... There is a chap right here on Bikehub that often has things like this for sale. He was the only guy in SA that I could get 5600 hoods (not even Coolheat had them). He goes under the name of Richiespares. He is very quick to respond and posts them swiftly.

So many things to consider, the most important of which is size. Nothing will spoil your day more than riding a bike that is too small or too big for you. Step 1 is to determine the size you need and choose the bike that is the size. If you already know this and all 3 of these are the correct size, choose the one that speaks loudest to you.

Choose the one that is the correct size for you. If they are both the right size, choose the one that looks like it has been looked after better. Lots of scratches means the owner doesn't care about it and probably didn't maintain it. If they are the wrong size, look elsewhere.

If you borrowed the frame, you will have to get the owner a replacement. Accidents do happen, but if it were my frame, I wouldn't be happy knowing it was repaired and wouldn't be happy getting it back like that

Isn't this the principle of the the free market system? Isn't it the basis of any freemarket business (buy as low as possible and sell as high as possible)? If somebody offers a price far less than what it was advertised at, the seller has two options. Accept it or reject it..... It is that simple.

Please elaborate..... Why do you say this is suspicious?

If the bike is in the condition the seller says it is and if it has the components the ad refers to, I would say it is a very good price.