David Marshall

Hi Pressure Lezyne with the hose. Pump until it is too hot to hold - that is about 100psi. Any road specified pump should work but you need to pump, pump and pump some more.

If it is going into a QA road frame it will be fine. The FD is likely to be a problem as in that era most were clamp on and the tubes thinner than the modern frames.

BSA won't fit and you are pretty much screwed as far as Octolink 1 goes. It is difficult enough to find English threaded ones and if you do you can buy a square taper crank for less. Italian BB's are all expensive. Sell the bike while it is still going or look at something like a Velo Orange BB (serviceable bearings) and a square taper crank.

It is simply the routing of the cable and more importantly the housing that influences the shifting feel. I have two drop bar road bikes - an older one where the cable is routed from outside through the shifter to inside and then into the housing which follows a graceful curve to the down tube and then on to the RD. The shifting performance is as good as the a flat bar shifter. The newer one has the (now more common) under bar tape routing. The cable enters the shifter from the underside and makes a sharp turn to the rear of the hood. Another sharp turn along the bar and then possibly more sharp turns if your frame has routing through the bar, stem or frame. This added friction influences the shifting feel. The other effect is on the way the housing and cable interact. As you shift up the cassette the cable gets tighter but still moves the same distance with each shift. If it twists as it tightens it will not move the same distance. That is why if you strip off the outer layer of gear housing you will see the shielding wires have a long gentle twist. This is so that the housing can move to compensate for any cable twist. The more corners you route around the more the tendency to twist and the less the housing can move. This is the reason that you just don't use brake housing on your gears. Just by coincidence the super slick coated cables made their appearance at the time the cable routing changed. Problem being that the Shimano cable coating sheds like snake skin and clogs the housing ferrules while the Sram ones shed "gunpowder" with much the same effect. But never fear! Electronic and bluetooth groupsets will solve all this.

I bought myself a second hand Fuji Absolute as a gravel bike because the price was (very) right. It comes standard with flat bar 105 11 speed road shifters and Tektro hydraulic brakes. The thought was to look out for drops as I am a roadie and felt that I would be more at home with them. Thing is the shifting is so good - far better than my road bike with under bar tape cables - that I wont go to the expense and hassle of changing.

How does a trip to the paint shop increase the fluid in the brake? The internals are also pretty basic so if the lever or caliper is not sticking I doubt that there is damage. Sounds like a good bleed needed to me.

I'll wait for the Crocs version - with secret socks.

After spending many years working in the brewing industry one thing I learnt (and it still holds) is:- Never, never NEVER accept the offer of any home brew.

What the pros use. Can't think of a bearing that you could extract from a bike like that. It is a good illustration of why you shouldn't grease caliper bolt holes 'though.

Contact Mellow Velo at Broadacres center. They have a magic box of Scott parts. If you are fortunate you will not have to buy the full pivot kit.

The new spacer between the hub bearing and the first freehub bearing should fix it. You can also clean up the old spacer and shim it. Same applies for the spacer between the the freehub bearings. On a sealed bearing freehub the bearings go as fast or even faster than the hub bearings

That is why we have long nipples. As long as one or two threads grip and you can't see the rest the spoke fits!

That ring adjusts the preload on the bearing. Some models have a wavy washer - yours has the ring. Tightening the grub screws increases the pressure on the washer pushing it against the bearing and crank. You want to make sure that there is no play on the crank while it still spins freely.

I can do any straight pull from 209 to 300 mm. Flat as opposed to bladed.

The best ones are the "Spokey" brand. Ideally the red and the yellow. (Red 3.2 mm and yellow 3.4 mm). They have a plastic base and don't scratch the rims like metal ones do. The large tabs allow for easy turning and measuring the amount of turn is pretty simple. That said there are so many spoke and nipple combinations that if you build more than the odd wheel you will end up with a drawer full of wrenches.

Sorry for the late reply. Just looked at the thread now. I doubt that you will have a problem riding them - just with the odd spacing the tensions and spoke lengths are off and therefore more likely to fatigue.

Don't use latex - they deteriorate if they contact oil.

Skipped a few holes....... bit of a challenge with spoke length........I would like to inspect before pass judgement ..... no I will pass judgement - I would never buy them from you but lets leave it at "I would not like to descend Hekpoort over the speed bumps at 80+ km ph". Skipping holes on a hub is a no no - unless you lace radially in alternate holes - which is a no no in my book anyway.

Just seen this post now. Yes, it will be fine. I have just rebuilt a Fulcrum Passion wheel onto a boost. Both the old and replacement rims are offset.

I also never used LocTite until I had to repair 16 hole radial spoked wheels.

Rather use Joobst Brand's "The Bicycle Wheel" or Roger Musson's "Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding". Not wanting to criticise but if anyone wants my copy Gerd's book I am open to offers!

If the wheel is built already you will just need to re dish 5 mm to the left. If you are building it then those lengths of 284 and 285 are correct but you will have to build it 5 mm to the left.

Looks a bit more upmarket than the Kowloon walled city - demolished in 1993.

https://www.cyclingsa.com/2019-sa-road-champs Gives the start times routes etc.

Agreed that the best spectator position is at the top of Government road. Anyone planing to watch SA's should at least watch a couple of laps there. Because of the short course and the number of start groups it is difficult to keep track but the riding is worth watching. I am glad that that I had a chance to race the route before SA's because even though my age group did not do Tom Jenkins, seven times up Edmond street to the top of Government road was also chosen with Valverde in mind. If you are planning to do SA's be prepared for short hard climbs. Sad that these provincial/national events are so last minute and poorly publicised. If I was King of CSA I would go through the rider data base and the seeding list (of course the internal up to date one). Then send the top 50 to 100 riders in each cat a personal invite along with the detailed event plan and program at least 6 months in advance. The venue and dates of would already have been announced at the previous years prize giving.