David Marshall

Too many claims for stuff lost in the SA post. You can try get it via Aramex shop and ship.

Also be sure that the seal between the hub and free body is fitted tightly into the hub. You may need to tap it in. If the ratchet mech was removed from the hub to replace the bearing make sure that the thin washer fitted between the hub/bearing and the mechanism was replaced. If not the lower spring will snag on the bearing seal.

The creaking door is opening.......

It is the clamps that are the real issue. You can get far better syringes from your vet and screw in connectors from drip irrigation systems work. As to the real thing it just depends on how often you are going to use it

Check and lube rear skewer as well.

Try and contact International Trade. They are agents for FSA. If they can't help you then you will probably have to bring it in yourself.

Your question is logical but not practical. I am assuming you would want to replace the hub while using the same spokes and rim. You would then need to get the exact same hub as a replacement. To do this you need to know what model it is (find the serial number/name - or get the specs from your bike manufacturer or from the hub manufacturer). To use another model of hub it would have to match the following measurements exactly. 1) Over lock nut dimension (OLD). This is the length of the hub from the outer surface of left lock nut to outer surface of right lock nut. So in the pictures above it is the length of the hub excluding the part of the axle that goes into the frame. 2) You then need to mark the exact center of the hub (1/2 the OLD) and measure from this mark to the center of both the left flange and the right flange. Because the gears fit on the right side the distance from the left to center is larger than the distance from right to center. 3) You need to now measure the diameter of each flange from the center of two opposite spoke holes. Sometimes the flanges are the same size but often they are not. 4) You need to measure the spoke hole diameter. 5) You need to know the number of spoke holes on each flange. This is why I say it is not practical. You can't get these measurements accurately enough with the hub in the wheel and secondly, you can't easily find this info on other hubs to compare the specifications. In practice you could replace the hub with any hub with the same OLD if you replace the spokes as well. This is expensive as good spokes are R15+ each and a wheel build is anything from R150 (not me) to R300 (me!). To get back to your original posting, you need to get a second opinion on the problem. What is bent on the hub and is the damage repairable? As others have said it could be tire or rim causing the hop. My suspicion is the replacement spoke is short and the radial truing is out. But then I am just a cynical old man.

See if you can't get the hub bearings serviced. Replacing that hub will not be cost effective . Cheaper to replace the wheel.

It will have to go to Probike for a rebuild. I don't stock the seals and by the time I've ordered and collected them it ends up costing more.

I smell a rat! Get the half of you based in JHB to bring the wheel to me and I will assess it for you.

Yes. I used to work at Yellowsaddle with Johan Bornman so I have have experience on most brands.

I doubt that it is your hub. More likely to be tire or rim related. Take it to some one who knows wheels to check it out before you spend money on a hub.

Give me a call. 072 222 7185

Rock Shox kits are slightly cheaper than Fox and they use less oil but the big advantage is that abused Rock Shox forks do not wear the stanchions like an abused Fox does. Fox stanchions start at around R2800-00. I've never had to buy a Rock Shox one although If you really neglect them they will damage.

My top FBS (far bike shop). Always seem to have those not so easy to get parts in stock for my not so young bike! Worth the drive.

It depends on the type of freehub on the wheel. The ones with sealed bearings in the freehub (the ones you can pull off the axle after loosening the locknuts) should not have any play. The ones that are fixed onto the hub with a center bolt that the axle passes through (like the Shimano hubs) do have play that can be visually disturbing but still work fine!

Both are!

There are three o-rings. Two on the -ve piston, the one between the piston and stanchion is 3.5mm by 21mm (not easy to come by so use a 3.5 by 20mm) the other between the piston and the shaft is 3mm by 10mm. The positive piston has one, also 3.5 by 21mm. Lube the o-rings and the lowers as per U tube. You will probably need crush washers on the lower nuts as well. I am sure that the guys at Stoke can supply you with a "kit" or do it for you. When pumping I usually pump the negative first to about half the pressure that I want the positive to be, then pump the positive. Go back to the negative and adjust if necessary.

They make a big range and a lot of hubs are branded for different companies so experiences will vary. I ride them and build on them and I recon they are excellent value for money. The sealed bearing ones compare with most of the up market hubs - two bearings on the freehub, two bearings on the axle and the whole lot clamped together on a sufficiently strong axle. A choice of steel or aluminum freehubs completes the deal. The flanges are strong enough to take high spoke tensions without the bearings being unseated and the range includes some pretty light ones. My road rear was 75gm lighter than a 105. Overall I think they are underrated. The big question with components that wear is how well are they supported?

Lube the skewer/axle thread?

Spoke R9-00 (straight guage) or R16-00 (double butted). True about R45-00. There may be other spokes damaged if it is on the drive side and the chain has come off between the cassette and spokes. Also spokes break from fatigue so if any others break soon it may be time for a re spoke or new wheel. If you bring it to me I can assess it for you.

I wouldn't repair. You will have such problems trying to get anything like even spoke tension or even getting it true afterwards. Also, for the carbon to have shattered like that there is probably damage to the aliminum as well. Scrap it.

Something not right. My understanding is that the CTD remote should default to the descend position without the cable attached.

Does it whistle?

The lockout is part of the shock so you will have to get a RP23 with a remote lockout. My advice is to loose the remote.