David Marshall

I charge R600 per hour for labour. A wheelbuild takes at least an hour therefore R600. A true depends on time taken. Anything from R45 to R200.

For quality tools in Randburg go to JKM Industrial. The have a range of quality brands. The Tool Shop is another, they stock King Tony. For Chinese you can go to Aardendorf. All the above in or near Strydom Park.

Looks like they could come from the Novatec stable.

Get the link from Rapide.

Everything above and check that the hose inserts are the road ones and that the reach adjustment is set to maximum reach before re bleeding.

Contact Mellow Velo at Broadacres center. They have a magic box of Scott parts. If you are fortunate you will not have to buy the full pivot kit.

The new spacer between the hub bearing and the first freehub bearing should fix it. You can also clean up the old spacer and shim it. Same applies for the spacer between the the freehub bearings. On a sealed bearing freehub the bearings go as fast or even faster than the hub bearings

If you replace the tyres get tubeless ones. Non tubeless ones either work like a dream or don't. A ghetto is great until the tyre goes flat and then the chances are that you have to redo the whole thing.

That is why we have long nipples. As long as one or two threads grip and you can't see the rest the spoke fits!

The optimum gearing for a gravel bike depends on what you plan to do. I am a roadie and use mine on the footpaths and side of the road until I meet my group and then I want to stay with them on the tar. I have a 50/34 crank and a 28/11 cassette. If you plan to stay with a bunch don't go less than 50 up front. 48 will not cut it in a race. Remember it is not the difference between the 48 and 50 that you are up against. It is the big strong guys on the 53 (at around a 9% advantage) that you need to hang with. My next cassette will be a 32/11, just to cover the times I do proper gravel, although I have managed everything on the 34/28 combination so far. If you plan to do just gravel, more off road or touring your gearing needs will be different.

Don't skip the "Exceptions ans Considerations" section.

That ring adjusts the preload on the bearing. Some models have a wavy washer - yours has the ring. Tightening the grub screws increases the pressure on the washer pushing it against the bearing and crank. You want to make sure that there is no play on the crank while it still spins freely.

You can also fit the wheels, wet the tyres and push over a concrete surface. Rear wheel should track over the front one.

If I recollect the last set that I did it was four 6902 and two 6802. Take the end caps and freebody off and check. Things change over time to account for the different axle options. Jury is out on the "suitability" of the more expensive bearings. There are so many variations - different materials, race design, ball size and quantity, seal design as well as lubrication used. A more "expensive" bearing may be just that because it is designed for a specific application which may not be ideal for a hub. As there is no industry standard you are left guessing as what to buy. Cycling applications do not call for hi tech bearings so I stick with what I know works. (Enduro LLB ABEC 3) If it makes you feel faster go for the ABEC 5 or even ABEC 7. The ABEC grading refers to manufacturing tolerances and not quality per se.

I don't like to comment on "noises" from afar because the source can be difficult to pin down. BB noise is usually creaking or a "click". Grinding noise under pressure could also be from the chain/chainring or even the rear wheel/cassette. Best is to remove the chain and spin the crank. You will hear/feel bearing roughness. You can replace the bb with the same type or opt for a screw together type like the Token, Praxis or Wheels Manufacturing ones. I prefer the screw together types because they are less prone to creaking and bearing replacement is simple.

It is not difficult to buck the system and get away with it. The authorities have not been able to control a couple of thousand Zama Zamas in mapped warrens or the eToll dodgers with their full registration details. So how do you control a couple of shops/cyclists now especially when your law enforcement assets are stretched to the limit? Lockdown and social distancing success relies on buy in from society and not authority. If you ride more than 5km from home or buy parts/service that are not specified at this level that is your choice. You can justify it however you want and the chances of you getting nabbed are about nil. Whatever you do try not to bring any more negative publicity onto the sport and keep safe.

Very fine. It is one thing certificating your shop - it will be something else proving that your services are "emergency" or "hardware" and that your customers are allowed to be there. Some cycle service suppliers, as well as automotive repairs, are being offered at your house. I don't read this as being allowed at Level 4. Various players in the industry have presented the minister with legal arguments and we should get a better picture soon. Until then I will remain closed.

Not really........ I used to "do" the Juicys and Elixirs and still have the odd kit lying around. XX brakes are no longer supported locally and the new Guides need a specific tool for the lever that is "not in stock". You get a plastic one with the kit for about R1000. When I phoned the shops around to borrow one no one had and all now don't bother to service - just courier them to the agent. Kit+labour+courier - The replacement option may not be so bad after all.

It is just a poor wheel design. Paired straight gauge spokes, radial laced on the rear and flanges that can't take the strain. Bontrager dropped this design almost as it was introduced (2006??) but for some reason Merida still sell a similar pattern. Those spokes would not have been over tensioned without pulling the wheel out of true. FYI you do get cassettes with a few more teeth on the large cog. Respect for climbing with that!

Same as last year - if you start with the U16 boys you are off the back before the Steyn City entrance.

I can do any straight pull from 209 to 300 mm. Flat as opposed to bladed.

The best ones are the "Spokey" brand. Ideally the red and the yellow. (Red 3.2 mm and yellow 3.4 mm). They have a plastic base and don't scratch the rims like metal ones do. The large tabs allow for easy turning and measuring the amount of turn is pretty simple. That said there are so many spoke and nipple combinations that if you build more than the odd wheel you will end up with a drawer full of wrenches.

Sorry for the late reply. Just looked at the thread now. I doubt that you will have a problem riding them - just with the odd spacing the tensions and spoke lengths are off and therefore more likely to fatigue.

Don't use latex - they deteriorate if they contact oil.

Skipped a few holes....... bit of a challenge with spoke length........I would like to inspect before pass judgement ..... no I will pass judgement - I would never buy them from you but lets leave it at "I would not like to descend Hekpoort over the speed bumps at 80+ km ph". Skipping holes on a hub is a no no - unless you lace radially in alternate holes - which is a no no in my book anyway.