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Found 101 results

  1. News bot
    Given the amount of time that most of us spend looking at our handlebars, it's no surprise that we appreciate a tidy cockpit. Happily, companies like Shimano and SRAM agree- and have provided for accessory mounting in their brake lever designs. Click here to view the article
  2. News bot
    The Kargo Pro MTB Team is proud to announce that leading bicycle component developer, producer and distributor, Shimano, has been signed as the team’s technical partner for 2016. Click here to view the article
  3. dwinter
    Hey. I've just bought a 1x11 XT upgrade kit from CWC to replace my current 2x10 XT kit. I plan to run a 32 front blade and it's a 11-42 cassette. The upgrade kit comes with a long-cage RD (SGS), but I think I'd prefer a medium-cage RD (GS) to limit rock strikes and just to keep things a bit neater. Does anyone know of any issues or have any practical experience / advice running a medium-cage (GS) XT RD with a 32 blade and 11-42 cassette? Or should one stick with a SGS when running this set-up? Shot, Dave
  4. Meezo
    First off I must stress that I am by no means a qualified bicycle mechanic, I do have little very little experience with them. Secondly I cannot take full credit for this fix, the idea was given to me by a very very generous hubber who’d had offered to fix for me for free. KUDOS @BikeWhisperer and a close friend @gyro for the time Ok, then this is not an avid or shimano appreciation thread, nor an avid vs shimano thread. SYMTOMPS: Pull lever, and it does not return at all or very slow and spongy. If bike in open sun, levers lock up. POSSIBLE CAUSES: Dirt and grime build up in the lever cylinder, as well as on the piston. See below With the dirt and grime build up, when in heat the swelling cause the lockup and no return of lever. TOOLS NEEDED: 2mm Allen Key Star Screwdriver Isopropyl Alcohol Toilet roll/Roller towel Thin Nose Pliers 1 x 3000 grit Sand Paper 1 x 2000 grit Sand Paper 1 x 1000 grit Sand Paper This is from the shimano site, I will make reference to the number here in my photos as well For starters is always good to remove the lever completely off the brake line. Below is an image of a lever I had repaired and one that was going to get repaired, taken as is off the brake system Remove 8 in diagram above like below, there a tricky little rubber cover than can be removed with a thin small screwdriver or pin Push out 5 using the 2 allen key, this will separate the lever trigger from the rest of the lever Use the thin nose pliers to twist and remove the roller connector/part of the lever Using the star screwdriver, remove 6 Turn the lever upside down ie. reservoir facing down and use the screw driver to pop out the plastic roller fitting ..and finally we get to the problem child, this is just to show you how the piston is actually stuck in the cylinder Easiest way to remove the piston and spring is using the 2mm allen key This is your best friend keep on using it throughout the process, clean up all you bits you can, all the none plastic and rubber bits I let sit in the isopropyl alcohol for a few mins …so time for the fix the red blocks is whats needed to be sanded down using the 1000 then to 2000 then smoothen with the 3000, very very lightly and depending on your piston condition very very little too. PS: it may or may not be easier to remove the rubber seals, just be very careful when sanding around them what I do to test I push the spring in with the piston, and see if there’s a “spring” back in the piston by pushing in and out the cylinder And the final product! DISCLAIMER: I am not in any way affiliated to Shimano. I will not take any responsibility for any damage done to your lever or other parts when attempting this fix. I am not 100% sure of the repercussion sanding down the old dirt or grime build up, and will not be held responsible if it does fail. Our scholars tell us, that we have to go out to seek knowledge and whatever knowledge is learnt must be shared so it be beneficial for myself but humanity at large…
  5. Veebee
    Hi All. Time for new pedals... VP power bearings are done. Have wide feet and using wide shimano shoes. Currently using 2 washers on vp power pedals so my shoes don't rub on the crank arms. Was told I need to get rid of the washers as they could eventually strip the thread on the arms as there isn't much of the pedal axle going in. I have been looking for the Ultegra 6800's, with the 4mm longer axle but cannot find stock. Shimano SA doesn't have anything and CRC is also out of stock and have no idea when they will receive stock. So anyone know of a shop that could have 1 set of Ultegra SPD 6800 with 4mm longer Axles on their shelves ? I can get get the DA 9000's for about R600 more than standard Ultegra's but would like to keep the pedals matching with my groupset. And I would assume that there isn't a massive difference between the 2. Thanks.
  7. News bot
    At a press conference held yesterday in London, multiple World and Olympic champion Marianne Vos launched Strongher, a new and unique international concept in cycling. Click here to view the article
  8. Pom1
    Can anyone advise if Cool Heat (distributors of shimano in SA) are experiencing distribution and pick up problems in the the Gauteng area over the last week? My Local LBS advises me Cool heats Driver has "absconded" and has not been replaced?
  9. News bot
    In this mini documentary we follow Greg Minnaar, South African downhill legend, in his quest for his fourth rainbow jersey. He knows how to win it, he knows how to put it all together in the final run. It's his specialty. But can he do it again in Vallnord, Andorra, during the 2015 World Championships? Click here to view the article
  10. hayleyearth
    [i did a quick search and didnt find a thread dedicated to this, if there is, sorry for this and please direct me to it.] Shifter mounting + Brake mounting =.........the challenge of finding the right matchmaker (and there are MILLION variables) AND it can change your "ah let me quickly do a brake set change" to a long night of research and scratching in your spare parts bins. Now something that can puzzle me at 11pm is how to fit my new SRAM Guide brakes to my Shimano XT shifter. I had Hope brakes before and that needed its own 'matchmaker'. I thought there should be a thread here on the hub with pics of how to do these things, a summary where anyone can come to find what ever they need (so please add stuff if you have more info). Patches are the guy to actually do this (he likes writing long posts with pictures etc etc) but it seems like I asked some questions he didnt even know so I will start and throw a few things in that I have found in the last few hours. So the XT shifter I bought (i-spec), it looks like: See the problem? Yes, nothing nice and round that can go around the bar, because it is made to go nicely onto a Shimano brake like so: But because I planned to use it with Hope brakes, I bougth the Hope matchmaker back then, it mounts on shifter like so: And to the bar like so: There are obviously plenty of shifter options and plenty of brake options and yes you can mount them seperately, which is what I considered next. Which would look like this for the brake: And well something like this for the shifter: or where it seems you need/can use one of these: Which does leave you with a 'busy bar' but I am SO desperate to get these damn brakes on that I would have let it happen...IF I had one of those options avaible ...SADLY I dont!!! Here is where the frustation started at 11:30pm last night. And no, you can not mount the shifter with the hope matchmaker and the top half that came with the Hope lever assembly, because neither have thread. Refering to these two parts: So the option I then started looking at is the matchmaker option with the XT shifter and SRAM brake. So it looks like here alone are quite a few options too. Here is what I think will get my bike sorted asap: (I actually think I might have the right little one piece somewhere at home...if not, I might find a friend that do (before day end). Patch did tell me about this website, but I dont think they can help me as fast as I need it: http://problemsolversbike.com/products/mismatch_adapters Randomly here are other options I have found with Hope brakes: More reading: http://www.braggibikes.com/mixmatch/ At least the guides and dropper post lever was easy going...match/love at 1st sight... And this is just great for 'unclutered' bars: Edit 1: 11pm = night..think it is called a tautology
  11. News bot
    PRO have unveiled a host of updated road and mountain bike component sets and accessories for 2016. Click here to view the article
  13. Nick
    First Look Friday is an introduction to the products that we are currently testing for review. This week we're featuring the Shimano R088 road shoe, Dirt Apparel riding shirts, 661 Exo Knee/Shin and elbow pads, and Mio Velo heart rate monitor. Click here to view the article
  14. guyhew
    I've finally gone carbon. (Scott hard tail MTB) But I didn't buy cleats when I bought the bike, as I already broke the bank by going over budget and was overwhelmed by the choices in cleats. My past bikes I've just gone with the standard middle of the road Shimano cleats. I need new cleats. Seen Crank Bros, Shimano, and Look (Which I havn't seen since the 90s as a brand). What does one look for in a cleat system? I ride twice a week off road, mainly jeep track and getting into single track. Please some advice.
  15. T-Bob
    I've always looked at posts when people asked 'how much is my bike worth' and wondered how they couldn't know a rough value. Now I'm in the same position and actually don't have much of a clue what my 2011 Shimano 105 5600 (Black) is worth on the market. It's the group set but with out the BB or crank but includes: - Brakes - 11/ 28 Ultegra cassette (+/- 400kms) - STIs - Front mech - Rear mech - Chain (sub 300kms) - Cables I'd say the condition is about 7.5 out of 10. Some scrapes on the STi's and from being knocked over by the automatic gate are the only issues. The shifting is still crisp and sharp and the brakes have Swiss stop pads. So brains trust of the hub... what would this go for? I've looked through past sales and there is quite a range.
  16. CTJ
    I'm hoping some experts out there can assist me with this... I'm running a 10 speed campy groupset except my crank which is FSA. Due to campy casette's and chains not being available freely and being very expensive, I'm toying with the idea of using a SRAM casette and chain with my campy shifters and deraileurs? Who has experience in this as how well this will work? I'm told that SRAM will work better than Shimano as the casette spacing is closer as well as chain width. Any other suggestions will also be welcome!
  17. GrantRH
    Since posting my recent acquisition of the new Di2 XTR on another thread, there have been a number of calls for an honest "commoners" review. Hopefully I can do it justice. Here goes... Click here to view the article
  19. Iwan Kemp
    First released in 1990, Shimano's SPD (Shimano Pedaling Dynamics) have become the go-to pedal of choice for most riders. Whether first starting out or experienced rider. Click here to view the article
  20. gummibear
    Today Shimano proudly sets a new mountain biking benchmark, unveiling a genuine market-leading groupset for all enduro, cross-country and trail riders. Revealed for the first time at California´s Sea Otter cycling festival this evening, the new Shimano DEORE XT M8000 raises the bar of the industry´s original mountain bike component groupset to accommodate four distinct mountain biking styles and limitless riding adventures. Click here to view the article
  21. News bot
    Shimano is giving road cycling consumers even more advantages over the pro’s with a new milestone in braking technology. The introduction of Shimano’s new 105 grade hydraulic disc brake, combined with a flat mount caliper, brings high performance stopping power to the sportive rider, making for a safer and superior road cycling experience. Click here to view the article
  22. Nick
    There is just too much to show from the 2014 Africa Cycle Fair. Here is part 1 of the day three finds with a few Shimano Di2 equipped steeds. Click here to view the article
  23. Tiny K
    I just bought a new bike, without wheels, and want to use my old Shimano RS10 wheelset on the bike. Campagnolo groupo means new freebody, and being 11spd would have meant a new Shimano freebody - either way, it's now about which works out cheaper. QUestion is, where can I find a freebody for a Campagnolo cassette with the flower type formation of a Shimano freebody, which is 11spd compatible?
  24. Tiny K
    I am in a unique position in having the difficult task of choosing between the three*... Di2 is awesome when it works, but if it doesn't, you're stuffed. Perfect shifts day in, day out. It does also have a weight disadvantage. Practically maintenance free apart from charging the battery and lubing the chain. Force22 is light in comparison but settling in will occur and adjustment will be required. Cables and housings will need to be changed every so often. Edit: Athena EPS has emerged as an option now too. Middle ground between the two groupo's and is Electronic... And more importantly, it's Campy.
  25. Trawsaj
    Hi guys Currently have Shimano 2300 (8spd) on my Specialized Secteur. Been riding for about 2 years now and feel like it's time for an upgrade. Have got no issues with the brakes or crank (compact), but the shifting is starting to bug me. Also would like to get a wider range cassette, maybe something like a 11-26 (13-26 current). Don't have a fortune to spend, so my question is is it worth it to upgrade to Tiagra components, or should I hold out and replace with 105's? Thanks
  26. IstominIS
    Dear all. I need your assistance. I'm new in MTB and have Trek X-Caliber 6 2014. The problem is my front derailleur Shimano M191. In some positions of front gear and back gear I hear friction in it. I've tried to adjust it but without success. I've decided to change it on Shimano FD-M590. The problem I see is that stock one designed for 8 ring cassette (which is installed) and Deore is for 10 ring cassette. Please, advice if it is going to work properly and if not, what change I can apply? Thank you.
  27. Active Monkey
    If I buy a slx or a deore or a xt group set, what really is the difference? What benefit do you get for the extra cash? About to upgrade my spark 950 components and looking at the prices it's from 3500 to 17500 for a group set. And please if you can be specific, don't say speed or effort
  28. Sharky535
    Good day Im looking to buy a decent set of double sided pedals having Clipless on one side and a big platform on the other side. Im looking at the Shimano PD-A530 but as they are for road I am not sure if they will last if used for MTB. Opinions and thoughts welcome.
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