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The story: So I have ridden my bike with my favorite Sram Rival groupset for about 4 months now, and at Die Burger Cycle Tour I wondered why I couldn't shift properly? Had given the bike a good clean and lube the night before and rode it around the driveway before putting it on the bike rack that morning. The issue: The double tap (right hand shifter) took far too much effort to engage and disengage, had to push too hard and had to pull the lever back into place after shifting up gears. Not a smooth clicky click at all. The left shifter wasn't so bad, the right however was terrible. Unfortunately I stressed out and cleaned it before taking any pics. The cause: There was sand. Alot of sand. When I pulled the shifter hood off sand quite literally fell out of it. There was sand caked all over the shifter internals and it was extremely painful to see. Just the thought that I had ridden 97km+ like that made me cringe. I realized that driving from the far South along Beach Road to Stellenbosch was not the choiciest thing to do, as our bikes were sandblasted and nearly pulled off the car and this was part of the result. The solution: I am no bike mechanic, or specialist, but I am proud of the fact that I put my bike together myself with all the bits and pieces I have acquired through the hub. DIY all the way, and visit the LBS's for general parts, consumables and coffee (and the hub for deals ). - I used lamp oil and a thick brush to loosen up the sand and wash some of it out, then blasted the rest out with the compressor and repeated until there was no sand left. - Afterwards, rinsed with water and blasted it dry with the compressor again. - Finally re-lubed as required. If there is any better way to do this, and suggestions for re-lubing shifter internals please do share the knowledge. From now on: When it is windy, I will travel the more inland route. Also, the shifter hoods have a 'mouth' underneath and semi-expose the internals so I'll be sure to check up on these more often. So to all the hubbers out there who have yet to do so, check for sand this summer and happy riding.

I saw today on Cyclingnews.com that some SRAM Red rear derailleurs were recalled. I was expecting X5 and possibly X7 RDs to be recalled, because of the following issue I recently encountered: I got an X5 9spd RD with my MTB. The bike was brand new, unassembled. I aligned the RD hanger with the park alignment tool (after having rebuilt, dished and straightened the rear wheel) and then installed the RD. While installing the RD, I noticed that the body of the RD was quite loose on the pivot which contains the bolt that attaches the RD to the hanger. There was noticeable play and the body of the derailleur was skew on the pivot (see attached photo). I'd never seen that on a RD before, but continued with the installation of cables. When it came time to adjust the low stop screw of the RD (the largest cog on the cassette, closest to the spokes), I aligned the top jockey wheel with the largest cog. To my amazement, the bottom jockey wheel, which was at a similar height to the top wheel since there was no chain installed and the jockey wheel cage was sprung back horizontal, was touching the spokes. If I rotated the jockey wheel cage downwards against the spring, as it would be positioned if a chain was installed, the RD no longer touched the spokes. This suggested that it would work fine with the chain installed and properly tensioned, but should the rider be in the largest cog at the back and the chain comes off the front chain rings, the RD would make contact with the spokes and possibly cause serious damage and injury. Convinced that I must have received a rare dud X5 RD, I went to look at some bikes with X5 RDs at the LBS. There was only one, a Trek, and it had the same play in the pivot. When I contacted the supplier of my bike, he said that he'd noticed that about the X5 RDs, and he very kindly swapped it out for an X7. I couldn't ask for better service than that! The X7 had a noticeably tighter pivot, but it still seemed to have a bit of play. When I installed it, it exhibited the same behaviour (touching spokes when top jockey wheel aligned with large cog), but possibly not as much. Has anyone else noticed this about X5 and X7 RDs? It is easy to check: Change gears to largest cog on cassette. Take the chain off the front chain rings (or take it off altogether), so that the RD jockey cage springs back. Gently turn the rear wheel to check for contact with spokes. Maybe they all need a recall? Or maybe my park hanger alignment tool is broken :-) (not likely, given the simplicity and solid engineering of it).

How great are these new power meters from Stages cycling. http://www.stagescyc...gespower-models Our Stages Power meter is the singular product that will bring power measurement and training to the masses. Stages Power has an impressive range of adaptation over the industry's aluminum crank models. This range puts power meters within the reach of every performance minded rider, from road, to triathlon, to mountain bike (including downhill), to BMX and track. It's a simple solution is tailor made for Shimano's entire performance range, as well as SRAM's aluminum Rival and X9 models. For BB30 riders, we offer SRAM’s X9 mountain model and Cannondale's 3D forged Hollowgram SI crank. Adding to our BB30 compatibility will be the addition an FSA option at the beginning of 2014.

Last Friday I bought an press fit bb set not knowing you get them for SRAM and Shimano in different sizes. Within 20 minutes of paying for it I phone the LBS and alerted them to the fact that they have given me the wrong type. I did mention it was supposed to be for an Shimano XT crank. Took it back on Monday as they did not have the correct item in stock and the owner of the establishment informs me that they have a 5 % handling fee on returns policy. I cannot recall seeing the relative signage communicating this fact. I however explained to the owner that the wrong part was supplied upon which decides to wave the 5% handling fee as if he is doing me a huge favour. The owner carries on about the sales person having to have the item checked to make sure that nothing is missing and that they can still sell it. I do not think Mr. Owner knows that his sales person knows me for a long time and is the reason I was shopping from him. The sales person only started working there a month or so ago. One of the things of course that comes to mind is the consumer protection act. Another thing is that the owner seems to have this habit of looking down his nose at his clients. Mr. Owner I hope you realise that you have lost a customer for life as I will not be buying from you again as I am sh*t scared that you will come up with some nonsense like this. I also do not buy things to steal small parts from them. And you do not have to have the attitude of you are the king and I am peasant. It is the other way round . I am the King whose cash you want. It is such a pity you changed your mind as I wanted to name you on this forum and warn other "Kings" about you. At first I was very impressed with your shop but you sure as hell kicked a dent into that one.

Do you need a special tool like a crank extractor to remove a sram XO crank, I have taken the bolts out but cannot get the non-drive side arm off?

My derailleur Shimano SLX het gebreek die naweek en ek wil graag weet kan ek dit net vervang met n beter een soos n XT of een van die SRAM produkte of moet ek die gears controls op die handle bar ook vervang????

Watching the classifieds lately I came across lots of "dodgy" looking ads. Very limited information given. Bad photos etc etc. After commenting and asking who and what she is she says she's not telling. Now that for me set off smoke signals. Now where there's smoke there's fire Here is a link to one of her ads. http://www.thehubsa....0#commentsStart

Well it seems silly season has hit, and it is Christmas bonus time .......... 50% mark ups in under 2 months.... Bought a SRAM ss chain as backup for 3 towers, in Oct for R99.99 Gave it to my nephew as he broke his chain. Then mine broke and urgently need a new one for this coming weekend. Asked someone to get me the same SRAM chain from the same shop. He comes back with it.... R149.99..... Is it Christmas bonus time or is it because they expanded their shop and need more money.... Can't be exchange rate that didn't go up 50% and has been up for some time now. One can understand prices go up but 50% in 2 months is crazy. Bit like finish line cycles, Santa cruz hanger R130. 1.5 months later (after expanding their shop) same item R213....

I have a brand new XO 3x10 crank and would like to convert to 2x10. I can get a 2x10 spider from an X9 crank (GXP), would I be able to fit it and then run it as a normal 2x10? Thanks GURUS!!!

i am looking at replacing my trusty old 26" GT with a 29" and it has come down to two really well priced bikes with really nice components. Bike 1: 2014 Silverback Sola 1 at R15 999 Product Description Frame 29” XC Geometry, Superlight, Butted 6061 Aluminium, Smoothweld, Tapered 1-1/8” – 1.5” headtube, 135mm QR dropouts Fork Rock Shox Reba, 100mm Travel, Tapered Alloy Steerer, Remote PushLoc, QR15 Dropout Headset FSA, Orbit, internal Alloy Cups, 1-1/8”-1.5” Rims Stans’s Crest, Alloy 29” , 32H, Stan’s Yelow Rimtape and Valves, White, Custom Decals Hub Rear Shimano SLX, Centre Lock Disc Mount, Adjustable cup and cone angular contact bearings Hub Front Shimano SLX, Centre Lock Disc Mount, Adjustable cup and cone angular contact bearings, 15mm axle Spokes Stainless Steel, Double Butted, Black w/2x White spokes at valve, Red Alloy Nipples Tires Schwalbe Racing Ralph EVO, TL-Ready, Folding, 29”x2.1 Lightweight Stem SBC-SL (Superlight) XC-Forged Alloy, 6 ̊ x ø31.8mm Handelbar SBC XC lightweight Alloy, W: 700mm; Back Sweep: 12 ̊ x ø31.8mm; 6061 Butted Oversized Seatpost SBC Forged Light Alloy, ø31.6mm x 400mm; Black, Black bolts Seatpost Clamp SBC, Alloy, 34.9mm Bolt on, Black Saddle SBC Performance Series, Cr-Mo Rails, Superlight foam padding Brakes Shimano Deore BR-M615, Open Hydraulic System, Metal Pads – M06, Rotors Front:180mm; Rear: Shimano M615 160mm, Centre Lock Shifters Shimano SLX SL-M670, 3x10 Trigger, SLX Grey Front derailleur Shimano SLX FD-M675-B, Double, Clamp-on 34.9mm, Black Rear derailleur Shimano XT Shadow Plus RD-M786-SGS, Long Cage, 10-Speed, Silver Chain Shimano, CN-hg75, 10 Speed Cassette Shimano CS-HG81-10, 10-Speed, 11-36T, Silver Crankset Shimano SLX FC-M675-10, 38/26T, L: 175mm, SLX Grey Bottom bracket Shimano External Hollowtech II Pedals VP, with Alloy Cage, 9/16” Bike 2: 2014 Momsem AL529 at R15 999 Frame 2nd Generation Race Tech 2, Alloy 6061 Butted Tubeset Fork RockShox REBA RL , Lockout, 100mm Travel Chainwheel SRAM S1000 44/32/22T Bottom Bracket SRAM GXP External F. Derailleur SRAM X7 R. Derailleur SRAM X9 TYPE 2 10 Speed Shifter SRAM X5 Trigger Brake Levers Shimano M596 Hydraulic Brakes Shimano M596 Hydraulic Cassette SRAM PG1030, 11-36T Rims No Tubes ZTR CREST, 32H Tires Kenda Slant Six, Folding Bead, 29 x 2.0 Pedals Shimano M505 Clipless Handlebar Ritchey COMP 2x , 720mm, 31.8mm Oversize Stem Ritchey 4-Axis, 31.8mm Oversize Seatpost Ritchey COMP 2 Bolt, 27.2 Seat Selle Royal Seta S1 Custom Headset Alloy Taper Integrated Colors Fast Black w/Red and Blue Details Chain KMC 10 Speed Hubset Shimano SLX, 32h Spokes Stainless Butted with Alloy Nipples Grips Kraton Race Weight 11.82kg ( Medium, Excl Pedals ) Both are good bikes, and the components are so similar. Any advice or opinions would help.

And so it begins Sitting at home waiting are http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/S7dQqnpk8wgfOFRWm-3DpirtLTAT9tudONHu6xWk2ss/mtime:1381936974/sites/default/files/styles/product_hero/public/images/products/shifters/2012-sram_x0_silver_10-speed_trigger_shifter-large-en_0.jpg?itok=L9V-iaBs IN BLACK THOUGH http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/_HAvmC3uBOYiWRdh_5uz2JneUDQ6t-Uw0MLgR6USLxs/mtime:1381936972/sites/default/files/styles/product_hero/public/images/products/derailleurs/sram_x0_dh_rd_my12_lrg_0.jpg?itok=rReVHszn And a 10spd XO Cassette and Chain http://www.jensonusa.com/images/Default-Image/Zoom/132/CR245A00.jpg http://itbhawaii.com/images/library/large/saint_brakes_09_m.jpg

Hey guys, ok so i have been bike shopping/ looking and need a little advise as i just cant seem to find much information locally apart from what the bike stores are telling me. i trust my LBS implicitly but need to do some checking as their opinion and advice may be slanted by the possible 40k bike sale. so my questions are, i know Rocky Mountain have a decent enough name overseas but i haven't seen very many here in SA. what are you opinions of them as a brand and are the bikes decent compared to the likes of Scott, Santa Cruz, Giant etc. does anyone know what the local support on the bikes is like, i know there are agents and components i can pretty much get from any LBS and am sure my LBS will do a warranty claim etc against shimano/ SRAM etc etc locally in the event of failure, but what about the frame and support thereof? for the price of 40k what would the other options be, initially i looked at the 2014 Scott genius LT, 170mm travel seems a bit much but i ride 160 now and am fine so don't suppose its going to be that different, the Altitude is 150 rear so i may need to get used to that as well. i really like the ride 9 feature that allows you to change the geometry and suspension to your riding style in more ways than i could have ever imagined but it may be too much and its a feature i am sure i could live without, do you think for an average non professional, i fall off ***, rider its too much choice? i see they have moved away from bearings on the rear linkage to bushings, i am not an engineer but surely they are going to need more maintenance than a bearing due to friction on the bushing causing wear? as i say just looking for some opinions and advice as for me 40k on a bike is more than i ever thought i would spend and its a hell of an investment( not from any other perspective than investing in my passion and enjoyment) thanks.

Why are these not more available in ZA? I took mine out for its virgin spin this morning and was suitably impressed. It looks as cool as a single speed but much more practical and low maintenance too. I used the Sturmey Archer 3 Speed which I purchased over the net from St Johns Cycles in the UK and installed it myself after getting the wheels build by Dr George from Mean Machine in Germiston. I see SRAM have a 2 speed IGH too that would make for interesting riding given the right chainring and cog.

My Bike was stolen out of my garage some time this afternoon in Stellenberg. Bike Details: Schwinn Moab Comp 26" Sram X07 / 9 speed Rock Shox Recon shock ZTR Olimpic Wheels Charl 084 952 0197

I need to change the jockey wheels on my SRAM X9 RD (long cage 10spd new gen top jockey wheel is not offset), but I have not really been given any firm answers in terms of my questions, so here goes: Do I have to replace with original SRAM jockey wheels, as I have read that the OEM parts don't last very long and require stripping and cleaning after pretty much every ride? Aftermarket replacements, BBB? or KCNC? On a few other sites I have read that the KCNC jockey wheels last for ages and are problem free providing that after each wash the necessary lube is done? If going the route of KCNC, will these jockey wheels decrease the lifespan of the chain? If so, by how much? Replacement suggestions from my fellow hubbers will be appreciated

Why are these groupsets so cheap? http://capetown-westerncape.gumtree.co.za/c-Sports-Leisure-sports-bicycles-fitness-SRAM-Red-2013-8-Piece-Yaw-Groupset-Brand-New-W0QQAdIdZ446480381 http://capetown-westerncape.gumtree.co.za/c-Sports-Leisure-sports-bicycles-fitness-2013-Shimano-Dura-Ace-9000-53-39T-172-5-11-Speed-Groupset-New-W0QQAdIdZ446482050 http://capetown-westerncape.gumtree.co.za/c-Sports-Leisure-sports-bicycles-fitness-Shimano-XTR-Dyna-Sys-Groupset-8PCS-40-28T-2X10-2013-W0QQAdIdZ446484580 http://capetown-westerncape.gumtree.co.za/c-Sports-Leisure-sports-bicycles-fitness-Sram-XX-SID-Carbon-Full-WorldCup-Groupset-W0QQAdIdZ446486729

Who do I contact at SRAM if I have an question about a warranty item?

Hi all... I know this is so a long shot, but if anyone comes across or has an offer to buy the following MTB (Trigon MQC 10 hardtail SRAM XX), please alert the police. It was stolen today from my house. Or you can facebook me at: renato.sabbioni@facebook.com Many thanks

I have just serviced by BB due to a creaking noise. I found that the plastic dust cover on the drive side actually comes out of the BB cup leaving a gap of approx 4mm for dust etc. to get into the bearing. This is the second consecutive BB that suffers from this. As the dust cover also acts as the "spacer" between the axle and bearing, there is play on the axle / bearing interface. The bearing is still OK on this BB, but the previous one failed because of this. I now space the gap between the plastic duct cover and crank to stop it from coming out. Anyone else come across this? Any other BB brands (besides Chris King) that will not do this?

2011 Cannondale Flash Alloy 1 29er Lefty stolen through fake deposit scam. Frame - Medium Flash Alloy Shock - Cannondale Lefty PBR 90 Shifters - Sram X9 Front derailleur - Sram X7 Rear derailleur - Carbon Sram X9 Seat post - Noir World Cup Carbon Crank set - FSA Afterburner 2x10 Brakes - Avid Elixer R Wheelset - Sunringle Equalizer 29er on Sram X9 hubs Bottle cages - Blackburn Carbon cages Saddle - Prologo X10 Evo Tyres - Crossmark (tubeless) R5,000 Reward for the return of this bike Serial number available on request. Contact me: 082 376 5685 cgg@iafrica.com

Is there a difference in the travel of a SRAM vs Shimano Road Front derailleur (I'm, aware that the RD is different 1:1 vs 2:1 travel..) Having trouble adjusting the FD so that it does shift up and does not rub when in 1st & 2nd on the inner chain ring... Using Force RD and have a Ultegra FD with SRAM R2C Bar End Shifters ?? Thanks

Hi I got SRAM 10 speed 2x10 groupset on my mtb. What Shimano parts will work with this setup? I know the cassette and 10 speed chain will work, but what about other components? Cheers

My brother and hubber Meezo was just knocked off his bike by 2 coloured guys. happened on turfhall (Opposite softball stadium)road in lansdowne area! at about 5:45 bike missing is his FM098 (chinese carbon thread) kitted with full sram red! will post pics of bike shortly keep a look out!!!

Hi, Being new to MTB I would appreciate it if someone could tell me which spec is better of the similarly priced bikes below. Bike 1 Specs: Frame sizes: S/M/L/XL Frame color: black | cyan/white (matt) Frame description: 29" mtb, 6061 alloy ultra lite tubing, t4/t6 heat treated, triple butted, tapered headtube, 3d-dropout, race geometry Fork: Rockshox reba rl 29", 80/100mm for 42/47-60cm, solo air, motion control, poploc, tapered Rear derailleur: SRAM x.9, long cage Front derailleur: SRAM x.9, high direct mount, dual-pull Shifters: SRAM x.9 trigger, 2x10-speed Cassette/ratio: sram pg-1030, 10-speed, 11-36t Chain: SRAM pc-1031, 10-speed Crankset: SRAM s1000, 38/24t, length: 170mm/175mm for 43/47-60cm BB: SRAM gxp, bsa Gear ratio: 2x10-speed, front: 38/24t, rear: 11-36t Brake set: Avid elixir 5, hydraulic discbrake, rotor: 180/160mm & avid elixir 5, mmx matchmaker Rims: Alex xd comp, 29", disc, eylets, 32h Front hub: SRAM mth-506 f, 6-bolt, disc, 32h, quick release Rear Hub: SRAM mth-506 r, 6-bolt, disc, 32h, quick release Spokes: cn double butted, 2,0/1,8/2,0 Tires: Schwalbe racing ralph evolution, folding, tl-ready, 57-622, 29x2,25 Tubes: Schwalbe sv19b 40/62-622/635 Headset: Cane Creek 10, zs44/28.6/h8 | zs56/40 (tapered) Handlebar: BGM race pro, flatbar, sweep 5¡, width: 640/680mm for 42/47-60cm Stem: BGM race pro, +6¡, length: 90/100/110/120mm for 42-47/51/56/60cm, bar bore: 31.8mm Grips: BGM comp, mtb, double density Saddle: Selle royal seta, special bgm design Seatpost: bgm pro, 2-bolt design, 31.6mm, length: 400mm Weight: 11,6kg VS Bike 2 Spec: Frame: HTX 29 Actinum AFT SCL Stem: GHOST light AS-029 31.8 mm Forks: Rock Shox Reba 29 RL Solo Air PopLoc 100 mm Tapered Headset: Ritchey Tapered Handlebar: GHOST flat bar super light 680 mm 31.8 mm Seatpost: GHOST SL SP 717 27.2 mm Saddle: Selle Royal Seta Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT 10-Speed Front Derailleur: Shimano SLX Shifter: Shimano Deore SL Lever: Avid Elixir 1 BB: Shimano Pressfit BB Crank: Shimano XT 42-32-24 Brakes: Avid Elixir 1 Disc 180 mm Tyre: Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.25 Wheel: Ryde Taurus Spokes: DT Swiss 1.8 Hubs: Shimano Deore Cassette: SRAM PG-1030 11-36 Weight: 11.9 kg

So the past week I bought the seal service kit for the Reba 29 RL Dual Air. After watching all of the videos from Sramtech on youtube and downloading the manual from Srams website, I then aquired the one or two tools i still needed, went to a Motorbike accessory shop and bought all the relevant weight shock oils and grease. The operation went quite smooth and i actually enjoyed the whole learning experience! The shock operates now like never before! Few things I would recommend: Clean working area!! essential stuff you would need, a Pick to remove the old seals, also learn the technique of squezing a rubber seal to easily remove them. Big syringe with a small rubber tube that couls fit into it and a Baby bottle to measure off your oil. 24 size socket! no 10 tube or long socket with the extension arm (this is for the nut on the bottom of the left stanchion, this sits deep because the arm is longer/deeper on the 29er fork Circlip plyers, dont try to remove the circlipp ring holding the baseplate of the airvalve assembly...trust me i tried! record everything by taking pictures with your cellphone as you go along use only isopropyl alcohol(get from the chemist) for cleaning the inside of the stanchion, normal stuff like acetone/ methyl spririts eats up and corrode the allu/magnesium compound. Once you see how relatively easy it is just to take the uppers apart from the bottom, then a more routine cleaning exercise of the dust wipers is a 15min job if you have all these proper tools. The vast majority of shock malfunction happens here!! My dustwipers were moertoe and very dirty and didnt even have much oil/lube in them!