Cheap vs Expensive chains

[FC&P2C]

Thanks, should have mentioned for MTB - road is completely diff.

 

I use a park ruler for checking the chain, and look after my chains well - 1000km is an estimate but it's about every 3months or less and i do 50% of training on road.

 

also depends on the weather conditions i ride in and the last couple of months in JHB has been wet and muddy some rides

I also bought a Parktool chain measure tool and it doesnt work. Was about to replace a chain as the tool measure .75 wear but then when i measure 10 links it was still for from .75 I now still use it as a quick check but think the 1.0 mark is nearer to actual .75

The reality is that by measuring 10 links are much more acurate than a tool checking 3 or 4 links!

[Seeker911]

They only time I ever changed a chain was when upgrading from 7 to 9 and then 10 speed. I have never had a chain break and cant say I ever used "expensive" chains. So unless yr aiming for a podium finish and look like an Etheopian why spend unnecessary cash on an "expensive" chain just to loose a few grams ?

Edited March 25, 2011 by Seeker911

[Bat-ass]

I use xt chains for mtb and ultegra for road.... I use a park tool thingy, and when it reaches .75mm i change it(they say change it when it reaches 1mm, but i dont wait till then). This seriously extends the life of the chainrings and cassettes. I have an ultegra cassette that has 25000km's on it and its still shows no sign of wear.

[Christopher Brunsdon]

Interesting. I just changed my chain yesterday (On mtb). I was running Shimano HG 53 and also only got 100okm's out of it beofre my BBB chain checker said time to replace. And I keep my gear uber clean, so Im not sure how guys get 3000k's out of it!

 

I also decided to rather replace now than in 3 months time and have to replace my cassette too!

Upgraded to HG 93 so we'll see if I get better wear out of that.

 

Those chain checkers are so inaccurate it should be illegal to use them. You need to measure your links with a ruler, old school.

[Christopher Brunsdon]

*Hijack on

 

Sorry for this, but, my old LBS told me that if you change your chain, then you should consider changing your cassette! Is this right? or is it the other way around?

 

*Hijack off

 

Never a Hijack question as this is what The Hub is all about. The answer is NO - your LBS is ripping you a big one. The rule of thumb is 3 chains to the cassette. After that you can safely replace your cassette knowing that you got the most out of it.

 

I would add that your riding style will also be a factor. I use all my gears instead of concentrating on only a few and my cassette will last longer.

 

It well worth learning how to not only correctly measure chain wear but also your cassette wear. Its also easier to measure cassette wear with a new chain.

[Wyatt Earp]

Never a Hijack question as this is what The Hub is all about. The answer is NO - your LBS is ripping you a big one. The rule of thumb is 3 chains to the cassette. After that you can safely replace your cassette knowing that you got the most out of it.

 

I would add that your riding style will also be a factor. I use all my gears instead of concentrating on only a few and my cassette will last longer.

 

It well worth learning how to not only correctly measure chain wear but also your cassette wear. Its also easier to measure cassette wear with a new chain.

You are assuming the bike shop is ripping him.

3 chains to one cassette ?

Riding style dependent I will say and I am not just talking about using all the gears in the cassette, but pedal action.

[Mojoman]

Is it not as financially efficient to ride for 4-5000km on the same chain, cassette and blade and then just replace all three (for me anyway aty the low end of the scale, HG50 cassette, SRAm 971 chain and Deore blade) as opposed to replacing a chain at R250 odd every 1500km?

[Christopher Brunsdon]

You are assuming the bike shop is ripping him.

3 chains to one cassette ?

Riding style dependent I will say and I am not just talking about using all the gears in the cassette, but pedal action.

 

The only exception is > 1% wear on the chain and then you would need to also consider your chainset. I'm also surprised at how even a good LBS will become lazy and rely on the Park Tool chain wear indicator when giving their customers the "best" advice.

[Christopher Brunsdon]

Is it not as financially efficient to ride for 4-5000km on the same chain, cassette and blade and then just replace all three (for me anyway aty the low end of the scale, HG50 cassette, SRAm 971 chain and Deore blade) as opposed to replacing a chain at R250 odd every 1500km?

 

 

I use a R100 chain. How much are you then paying for your cassete and deore blades then?

 

Also remember that once your chain goes over > 0.75% wear, you start accelerating the wear on your cassette and chain ring and once you hit > 1%, then it gets worse.

 

Also keep in mind your shifting goes for a ball of dung and other problems.

 

I'm talking from experience where my chain went way over 1%, I think it was closer to 2% .... needed a new cassette and chain set and it was way more expensive than just replacing the chain when I should have.

[kosmonooit]

Those chain checkers are so inaccurate it should be illegal to use them. You need to measure your links with a ruler, old school.

 

It's the same thing if done properly - it's just a Go- No Go gauge, commonly used in tool shops and production and I can confess to owning and using one (although I should be ashamed since I am in the minority here amongst the anti chain checker lynch mob)

 

My understanding is that with chain - cassette wear is you have to be ahead of the curve. If the chain wears past certain limits it will mess your cassette and chain rings up, since the pitch changes. That puts more pressure ons some teeth than others. Sprockets wear normally but should last a lot longer than a chain. So don't believe that bollox that some LBS tell you every time you take your bike in for a service. Yes I fell for it for a few years before wising up. Chain wear will also depend on maintenance and riding conditions.

[Mojoman]

I use a R100 chain. How much are you then paying for your cassete and deore blades then?

 

Also remember that once your chain goes over > 0.75% wear, you start accelerating the wear on your cassette and chain ring and once you hit > 1%, then it gets worse.

 

Also keep in mind your shifting goes for a ball of dung and other problems.

 

I'm talking from experience where my chain went way over 1%, I think it was closer to 2% .... needed a new cassette and chain set and it was way more expensive than just replacing the chain when I should have.

The SRAM 971 chain is about R250 or so, the HG 50 cassette around the same, blade not sure about as I just replaced the whole crank last time (moved from square taper).

[Wyatt Earp]

It's the same thing if done properly - it's just a Go- No Go gauge, commonly used in tool shops and production and I can confess to owning and using one (although I should be ashamed since I am in the minority here amongst the anti chain checker lynch mob)

 

I have to say, with my Park tool chain checker and a rooooooler, I get the same result.

And no anti chain checker's, I am not here to debate.

Edited March 25, 2011 by Dangle

[29thumbs]

wash and lube after every ride has my Xtr seeing over 5000km on it

[Johan Bornman]

C'mon okes. Some of you have been here since before Noah and still this chain thing brings up all sorts of strange answers from veterans evern six months it is debated and fought here.

 

I don't understand this concept of wear as a percentage. For instance, what is 0.5% wear? This assumes we know what 100% wear is and I've never seen a definition of that.

 

Further: Chain wear does not degrade shifting. Chain wear is not dependent on riding style. It is purely a function of (average) sprocket size, hygiene and mileage. Strength is just not an issue. I know no-one who breaks a chain in tension. Shimano brags about their strong chains and i suppose it makes for good marketing material, but it is not an issue. They can shave away more and more sideplate and it doesn't matter other than when you do a poor shift.

 

Replacing the chain at a certain wear point (we've discussed this wear point here ad infinitum) will spare your cassette. If you don't mind paying for cassettes, this is not an issue. Ride it 'till the cows come home.

 

 

Worn chains don't cause chainsuck per se, but it does wear the front sprockets into pockets at the pressure face that do in turn cause chainsuck.

 

It is not practical to measure cassette wear and I know of no spec available to us to indicate cassette wear.

[Wyatt Earp]

C'mon okes. Some of you have been here since before Noah and still this chain thing brings up all sorts of strange answers

Perhaps not everyone takes your views on all subjects as gospel, I certainly don't.

[Cassie]

I certainly view Johan's opinion as gospel!! BECAUSE he base his viewpoints on facts!! That is avery strong point to counter argue...especially if it is only your opinion...

 

Do yourself a favour - search this web for that topic...100's of pages has been written on it UNTIL Johan gave some very good facts!! And pictures & diagrams depicting chain wear....very difficult to argue that!!!

 

So, I read this, bit my tonge and just smiled to myself....pfttt...amateurs!!

 

PS: i still like the one about chain "stretch"...interesting phenomina that!!!