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Posted

sorry Gerald. Cant help with that. I don't and have never shot with a flash so have no knowledge whatsoever. But assume it has something to do with your shutter speeds vs flash duration speed. try shooting with a longer shutter speed and a short flash speed.

 

and is the camera picking up the flash ? maybe a quick clean of the pins are needed as they sometimes get sticky when not in use.

Yes, flash works and is detected.

 

I've seen other comments about the long shutter speed and the flash duration speed.

 

 

I'm a Nikon guy so my Canon advice is dubious. To get light trails with flash usually you set trailing shutter flash control and use ambient light to generate a blurred image leading to the sharp (flash lit) image at the end. This needs longish shutter speeds and fixed ISO. The camera calculates the light received during initial exposure so it knows how much flash to add at end. In some exposure modes this may not work.

 

If you have Auto ISO or red-eye reduction enabled it may deselect the trailing shutter flash option. Read the manual regarding trailing shutter flash....it will outline any restrictions. I don't think it is a Canon/Sigma issue but it could be.

ISO is hardly ever on auto.

Red-eye is off too

 

On a few google searches it appears to be compatibility with non-Canon equipment but on others they say it works.

 

I noticed the built-in flash allows for 2nd curtain (rear) flash.

Posted

This was taken in July 1996, by a late friend of mine using a Pentax 35mm film camera. Long before digital camera made for easy reviewing of a shot. Unfortunately it's a scanned copy of a 17 year old photo that's been handled n+1 times.

 

It was taken from a very cold, Crow's Nest cave, just below Mount-aux-sources looking out over the Amphitheatre with Woodstock dam the strip of water appearing just below-right of the sunrise. The white between the cave and the dam is the snow-capped area above the amphitheatre.

 

In July 1996, the 'Berg recorded one of the heaviest snowfalls in recent memory, and we were there hiking for 4 days. The previous afternoon we recorded -12oC on the thermometer (the long, thin one used by nurses).

 

 

post-1372-0-16837200-1440100750_thumb.jpg

Posted

This was taken in July 1996, by a late friend of mine using a Pentax 35mm film camera. Long before digital camera made for easy reviewing of a shot. Unfortunately it's a scanned copy of a 17 year old photo that's been handled n+1 times.

 

It was taken from a very cold, Crow's Nest cave, just below Mount-aux-sources looking out over the Amphitheatre with Woodstock dam the strip of water appearing just below-right of the sunrise. The white between the cave and the dam is the snow-capped area above the amphitheatre.

 

In July 1996, the 'Berg recorded one of the heaviest snowfalls in recent memory, and we were there hiking for 4 days. The previous afternoon we recorded -12oC on the thermometer (the long, thin one used by nurses).

 

sounds and looks like a seriously great experience.

Posted (edited)

+1 on the question.

 

I'm using lightroom. As far as you know you can't blend. I have tried plugin HDR programs, but they lack control (or else I am just not using them right) and often come out looking either artificial or else it doesn't add the extra levels of exposure rangerequired.

LR6 / CC does this. I've used it and it does it quite well. I'm not a great fan of this but it can give good results in the right circumstances.

​Out of interest I was chatting to Roger de la Harpe yesterday and he said he does not use graduated filters. He relies on Lightroom. For me, with my limited knowledge and experience, filters are a better option.

The attached photo (not a great example) is an HDR composite done in LrCC. I couldn't get the foreground bright enough together with a not too dark sky. As I recall three photos were used. No filters (except a CPL).

 

Edit: added photo. Duh!

post-3498-0-08340700-1440141147_thumb.jpg

Edited by Taps
Posted

Roger is quite efficient on LR. I attended one of his courses.

 

I prefer my grad filters and getting it all done when the shutter is pressed.

Posted

there's many of the top guys that shoot without ND filters. by shooting multiple exposure's you will capture detail across the entire frame, and would then need to layer/blend. I think if you have advanced processing skills on both PS & LR then this would be easy, if not it would take hours or days to get right, and avoid halo's and weird transitions in the frame.

Posted

The graduated filter tool in LR is also very effective for balancing exposures, with that and the new HDR in 6 you have some powerful options, I'd at least work it for all its worth before getting any ND grad filters. Good quality ND filters are not cheap and buying a cheapie ND grad might defeat the purpose.

Posted

the cheaper filters do work, but some have a weird colour cast, which gets worse if you stack filters or do long exposures. You can fix this in post quite easily though.

 

I started off with Kood Filters a few years ago, a full set with holders and rings were like R800 which is not bad to learn and understand how they work.

Posted

the cheaper filters do work, but some have a weird colour cast, which gets worse if you stack filters or do long exposures. You can fix this in post quite easily though.

 

I started off with Kood Filters a few years ago, a full set with holders and rings were like R800 which is not bad to learn and understand how they work.

 

What are your guys thoughts on this?

http://www.camerastuff.co.za/shop/camera-stuff/filters/square-filters/compatible-graduated-filter-kit-bundle.html

Posted

Is what I use. Modern equivalent of the now deceased Cokin brand. Not the best but good enough. Be very careful as the plastic filters are easily scratched.

 

I reckoned for around R400 it might be worth a shot

Posted

I reckoned for around R400 it might be worth a shot

Was a lot more 10 years back when I got mine. For R400 dont even hesitate. If possible get 1 stop and 2 stop soft grad filters and make sure the adapter ring will fit your lens

 

Soft grads have a more gradual transition that suits more applications. Hard grad is limited to well defined (straight line) transitions like ocean horizons.

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