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Chain tension


divernick

Chain tension  

77 members have voted

  1. 1. How do you tension your chain on your SS?

    • Sprung tensioner
      16
    • Non-sprung tensioner
      19
    • EBB
      7
    • Horizontal dropouts
      17
    • Sliding dropouts
      11
    • Magic gear
      6


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Posted

So when setting up your chain, just how much tension should you set in ... I ask this as I am looking for a guide when pushing down on the chain with your fingers should the chain be stiff or give a couple of mm. If a couple of mm what would be a good guide.

 

Currently I have a few mm, but when the cranks pass through the "high spot" it is discernibly stiffer

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Posted

Hey guys

 

I tried all the tension type stuff, but found this to work best (on Iron's suggestion);

Blackspire tensioner

 

This is a BB mounted chain guide, but with the right attitude (patience and perseverance), you can use it as a simple chain "tensioner", static of course.

You will have to "trial and error" on the angle before you lock the external BB cup.

TIP, place the chainguide against the frame, and then the spacer and crank, otherwise the tensioner angle will change when you torque the BB cup.

 

Using mine now for a while, and found this the best solution.

 

Easy installation and adjustment, as well as THAT TRUE SS LOOK, at the rear...

Yeah baby

 

How about a pic of the tensioner mounted? My chain was either too long or too short so I could not get my a la Iron tensioner to work, should I perhaps give it another go, this time with some patience.

Posted

How about a pic of the tensioner mounted? My chain was either too long or too short so I could not get my a la Iron tensioner to work, should I perhaps give it another go, this time with some patience.

 

Hi XTC1

 

Attached som emore pics of what I did.

 

Starting off;

  1. I fitted the "biggest" gear that think I will use (in my case a 20T rear, and my 32T front)
  2. Check the chain lenght on this gear
  3. Shorten chain
  4. Fit the cog size you "mostly" use (in my case a 16T)
  5. Now, with the chainguide fitted (closest to the frame, spacer, and crankset), have the BB loosely tightened.
  6. You will see in the pics, there is some adjustment to be made on the guidewheel of the "tensioner", have that losened as well.
  7. Fit the rear wheel, and the chain around as it would run.
  8. Use the chain guide to tension "up" or "down" (as what I did down, Iron tensioned up)
  9. Mark the spot of the chainguide, remove crank and torque BB with chainguide in marked place.
  10. Fit the crank
  11. Use the adjustment on the chainguide for final tweaks...

 

 

PM me should you have any other queries.

 

LOVING IT

See pics attached.

post-19310-0-23423500-1330948445.jpg

post-19310-0-25052000-1330948452.jpg

post-19310-0-94870500-1330948455.jpg

post-19310-0-86883500-1330948457.jpg

Posted

Thanks that's pretty much the procedure I followed but I tried getting mine positioned to push up on the chain like Iron's to be a little more hidden away against the chainstay rather than pushing down like yours...to tell you the truth I didn't even think of positioning it in the push down position. Will give it another crack soon...Short for the info.

Posted

Thanks that's pretty much the procedure I followed but I tried getting mine positioned to push up on the chain like Iron's to be a little more hidden away against the chainstay rather than pushing down like yours...to tell you the truth I didn't even think of positioning it in the push down position. Will give it another crack soon...Short for the info.

 

Cool, just could'nt get my chain length so (in the process I used) to have enough tention in the "UP" position.

So I improvised and tried the "DOWN", and very very good... :thumbup: :clap:

Posted

hmm, I am wanting to convert my road bike to ss. I take it I would need a tensioner as well. What would it cost on avg to have all this done?

 

Hi Riyadh

 

It depends on your bike's dropouts.

 

If they are horizontal, then easy peasy..

 

Vertical...

Well

You can get some good tensioners for around R400-R500.

This one in my pics, not work for you, depending on the FRONT chainwheel size used.

 

The rest of the conversion comes in few options...

  1. Get SS cogs, that will fit on your freebody (with spacers), and compatible with your 9/10spd chain. Done, whoilla, SS!!!
  2. (3/32" cogs and chain, REAL good!!! http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17775
  3. (1/8" cogs and chain, (track chain size) REAL REAL GOOD!!! http://www.halo-rims.com/products-details.php?id=CSHAF12H Got some at Eagle Canyon Fourways, or singlespeed.co.za
  4. Buid a SS specific REAR wheel, with eccentric rear hub for chain tension

What I did, is have a SS wheel built, Hope Pro II Evo SS/Trials hub, STAN's FLOW rim (29").

This hub has a STEEL freebody, so the cogs do not rip into the aluminium freebody (remember, all your power now gets transferred to the wheel on that 2mm thick gear on the freebody...)

This wheel is BOMB-proof, engagement is instant and real lekker.

I had this built at Mike's Bikes in Greenside.

 

The 3/32" chains look the part, and are compatible with "narrower" cogs.

Although, my suggestion would be, to get the 3/32" cogs and chain altogether...

 

I am running a 1/8" chain and cogs, and loving it.

 

PS, the "fat foot" type is a must, to NOT rip your freebody to shreds...

 

Happy Hooping

Posted

hmm, I am wanting to convert my road bike to ss. I take it I would need a tensioner as well. What would it cost on avg to have all this done?

 

Oh yes, I do all my repairs (well, most) myself, and did the SS conversion on my own.

 

Conversion costs;

  1. Tensioner, R400, cogs (8/9spd compatible), R80ea (some kits come with the spacers), and use your current chain.
  2. 1/8" or 3/32" setup, chain R450, cogs R220ea
  3. SS Rear wheel built, +-R3200, chain R450, cogs R220ea

Hope this helps

Posted

Been using the DMR non-sprung tensioner, but can't use a SS or rather a BMX chain on there as the roller does not accommodate the width.

 

Is anybody using the FireEye Spur and a SS chain with success?

 

http://www.fireeye-bike.com/upload/product/prod_16015.JPG

MattyEMD is running an identical tesioner from the states with a gusset halflink chain and no issues

Posted

Cool some great advice, and nice looking build. I have a very old road bike, 6speed, and thanks for all the links. I think I will rebuild the rear wheel as the spokes on both wheels have seen better days.

Posted

It looks the best but i still think the new niner EBB looks awesome.

Good luck with that. I have an Air 9 Carbon, rode it SS for six months and suffered 5.9 months of the most excruciating creaking with my EBB. Nothing I was told to try (by Niner themselves) worked. Run gears now; much happier :)

Posted

MattyEMD is running an identical tesioner from the states with a gusset halflink chain and no issues

 

Thanks, but instead of a tensioner on the geared frame I now have simplified matters by getting a new frame with horizontal drop outs :)

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hey Guys!! Need some help / advice.

 

Been running and OnOne tensioner for about 8 months now without any issues, however I am getting stronger and have changed from an 18 to a 16 at the back. Everything exactly the same as before but it now skips and jumps as soon as I put serious pressure on. Chain tension seems to be good and chain line is all perfect but no idea why this issue is now coming up.

 

Could it be because of the different sprocket at the back (being brand new and all) or should I start to fiddle with the chain length?? Super frustrated by this??

 

here is a pic of my setup.... any ideas???

 

post-47058-0-38846500-1374235465_thumb.jpg

post-47058-0-22087600-1374235460_thumb.jpg

Posted

Hey Guys!! Need some help / advice.

 

Been running and OnOne tensioner for about 8 months now without any issues, however I am getting stronger and have changed from an 18 to a 16 at the back. Everything exactly the same as before but it now skips and jumps as soon as I put serious pressure on. Chain tension seems to be good and chain line is all perfect but no idea why this issue is now coming up.

 

Could it be because of the different sprocket at the back (being brand new and all) or should I start to fiddle with the chain length?? Super frustrated by this??

 

here is a pic of my setup.... any ideas???

 

Finished a SS two weekends ago and had the same issue , as soon as you jump out of the saddle it feels like the chain jumps and skips a few teeth . I replaced all the blades (chain was new) but same . Then I saw IT !! The link I used on the chain caused a "stiff" link and this caused all this problems . Got no idea why I only feel it with power on the DT but bikes fixed and owned happy .

 

Forgot to add , look at where chain goes around tensioner .

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