Hairy Posted March 5, 2012 Share So when setting up your chain, just how much tension should you set in ... I ask this as I am looking for a guide when pushing down on the chain with your fingers should the chain be stiff or give a couple of mm. If a couple of mm what would be a good guide. Currently I have a few mm, but when the cranks pass through the "high spot" it is discernibly stiffer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYGA Posted March 5, 2012 Share Hey guys I tried all the tension type stuff, but found this to work best (on Iron's suggestion);Blackspire tensioner This is a BB mounted chain guide, but with the right attitude (patience and perseverance), you can use it as a simple chain "tensioner", static of course.You will have to "trial and error" on the angle before you lock the external BB cup.TIP, place the chainguide against the frame, and then the spacer and crank, otherwise the tensioner angle will change when you torque the BB cup. Using mine now for a while, and found this the best solution. Easy installation and adjustment, as well as THAT TRUE SS LOOK, at the rear...Yeah baby How about a pic of the tensioner mounted? My chain was either too long or too short so I could not get my a la Iron tensioner to work, should I perhaps give it another go, this time with some patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Posted March 5, 2012 Share https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/109398-style-of-chain-tensioner-i-used/ a link on what i did . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted March 5, 2012 Share http://www.thehubsa....nsioner-i-used/ a link on what i did . Hey Iron!!! You well? Am I seeing you at SSWC12??? Cherio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted March 5, 2012 Share How about a pic of the tensioner mounted? My chain was either too long or too short so I could not get my a la Iron tensioner to work, should I perhaps give it another go, this time with some patience. Hi XTC1 Attached som emore pics of what I did. Starting off;I fitted the "biggest" gear that think I will use (in my case a 20T rear, and my 32T front)Check the chain lenght on this gearShorten chainFit the cog size you "mostly" use (in my case a 16T)Now, with the chainguide fitted (closest to the frame, spacer, and crankset), have the BB loosely tightened.You will see in the pics, there is some adjustment to be made on the guidewheel of the "tensioner", have that losened as well.Fit the rear wheel, and the chain around as it would run.Use the chain guide to tension "up" or "down" (as what I did down, Iron tensioned up)Mark the spot of the chainguide, remove crank and torque BB with chainguide in marked place.Fit the crankUse the adjustment on the chainguide for final tweaks... PM me should you have any other queries. LOVING ITSee pics attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy Gordo Posted March 5, 2012 Share hmm, I am wanting to convert my road bike to ss. I take it I would need a tensioner as well. What would it cost on avg to have all this done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYGA Posted March 5, 2012 Share Thanks that's pretty much the procedure I followed but I tried getting mine positioned to push up on the chain like Iron's to be a little more hidden away against the chainstay rather than pushing down like yours...to tell you the truth I didn't even think of positioning it in the push down position. Will give it another crack soon...Short for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted March 5, 2012 Share Thanks that's pretty much the procedure I followed but I tried getting mine positioned to push up on the chain like Iron's to be a little more hidden away against the chainstay rather than pushing down like yours...to tell you the truth I didn't even think of positioning it in the push down position. Will give it another crack soon...Short for the info. Cool, just could'nt get my chain length so (in the process I used) to have enough tention in the "UP" position.So I improvised and tried the "DOWN", and very very good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted March 5, 2012 Share hmm, I am wanting to convert my road bike to ss. I take it I would need a tensioner as well. What would it cost on avg to have all this done? Hi Riyadh It depends on your bike's dropouts. If they are horizontal, then easy peasy.. Vertical...WellYou can get some good tensioners for around R400-R500.This one in my pics, not work for you, depending on the FRONT chainwheel size used. The rest of the conversion comes in few options...Get SS cogs, that will fit on your freebody (with spacers), and compatible with your 9/10spd chain. Done, whoilla, SS!!!(3/32" cogs and chain, REAL good!!! http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17775(1/8" cogs and chain, (track chain size) REAL REAL GOOD!!! http://www.halo-rims.com/products-details.php?id=CSHAF12H Got some at Eagle Canyon Fourways, or singlespeed.co.zaBuid a SS specific REAR wheel, with eccentric rear hub for chain tensionWhat I did, is have a SS wheel built, Hope Pro II Evo SS/Trials hub, STAN's FLOW rim (29").This hub has a STEEL freebody, so the cogs do not rip into the aluminium freebody (remember, all your power now gets transferred to the wheel on that 2mm thick gear on the freebody...)This wheel is BOMB-proof, engagement is instant and real lekker.I had this built at Mike's Bikes in Greenside. The 3/32" chains look the part, and are compatible with "narrower" cogs.Although, my suggestion would be, to get the 3/32" cogs and chain altogether... I am running a 1/8" chain and cogs, and loving it. PS, the "fat foot" type is a must, to NOT rip your freebody to shreds... Happy Hooping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted March 5, 2012 Share hmm, I am wanting to convert my road bike to ss. I take it I would need a tensioner as well. What would it cost on avg to have all this done? Oh yes, I do all my repairs (well, most) myself, and did the SS conversion on my own. Conversion costs;Tensioner, R400, cogs (8/9spd compatible), R80ea (some kits come with the spacers), and use your current chain.1/8" or 3/32" setup, chain R450, cogs R220eaSS Rear wheel built, +-R3200, chain R450, cogs R220eaHope this helps Eddy Gordo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmeyerSS Posted March 6, 2012 Share Been using the DMR non-sprung tensioner, but can't use a SS or rather a BMX chain on there as the roller does not accommodate the width. Is anybody using the FireEye Spur and a SS chain with success? http://www.fireeye-bike.com/upload/product/prod_16015.JPGMattyEMD is running an identical tesioner from the states with a gusset halflink chain and no issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy Gordo Posted March 6, 2012 Share Cool some great advice, and nice looking build. I have a very old road bike, 6speed, and thanks for all the links. I think I will rebuild the rear wheel as the spokes on both wheels have seen better days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX Posted March 6, 2012 Share It looks the best but i still think the new niner EBB looks awesome.Good luck with that. I have an Air 9 Carbon, rode it SS for six months and suffered 5.9 months of the most excruciating creaking with my EBB. Nothing I was told to try (by Niner themselves) worked. Run gears now; much happier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted March 7, 2012 Share MattyEMD is running an identical tesioner from the states with a gusset halflink chain and no issues Thanks, but instead of a tensioner on the geared frame I now have simplified matters by getting a new frame with horizontal drop outs Dustbin Dog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McFlats Posted January 2, 2014 Share Hey Guys!! Need some help / advice. Been running and OnOne tensioner for about 8 months now without any issues, however I am getting stronger and have changed from an 18 to a 16 at the back. Everything exactly the same as before but it now skips and jumps as soon as I put serious pressure on. Chain tension seems to be good and chain line is all perfect but no idea why this issue is now coming up. Could it be because of the different sprocket at the back (being brand new and all) or should I start to fiddle with the chain length?? Super frustrated by this?? here is a pic of my setup.... any ideas??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted January 2, 2014 Share Hey Guys!! Need some help / advice. Been running and OnOne tensioner for about 8 months now without any issues, however I am getting stronger and have changed from an 18 to a 16 at the back. Everything exactly the same as before but it now skips and jumps as soon as I put serious pressure on. Chain tension seems to be good and chain line is all perfect but no idea why this issue is now coming up. Could it be because of the different sprocket at the back (being brand new and all) or should I start to fiddle with the chain length?? Super frustrated by this?? here is a pic of my setup.... any ideas??? Finished a SS two weekends ago and had the same issue , as soon as you jump out of the saddle it feels like the chain jumps and skips a few teeth . I replaced all the blades (chain was new) but same . Then I saw IT !! The link I used on the chain caused a "stiff" link and this caused all this problems . Got no idea why I only feel it with power on the DT but bikes fixed and owned happy . Forgot to add , look at where chain goes around tensioner . Edited January 2, 2014 by dirt-rider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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