Chain jumping on rear cassette.

[MirageF1]

Hey guys

 

I recently bought a new low end sram chain. I also replaced my rear derailleur hanger which was bent. The cassette has about 1600 km. All the components are sram. Any ideas what will cause this?

[MirageF1]

Hey guys

 

I recently bought a new low end sram chain. I also replaced my rear derailleur hanger which was bent. The cassette has about 1600 km on it. All the components are sram. Any ideas what will cause this?

[MirageF1]

Hey guys

 

I recently bought a new low end sram chain. I also replaced my rear derailleur hanger which was bent. The cassette has about 1600 km on it. All the components are sram. Any ideas what will cause this?

[Cippo]

You posted same fred thrice, three times.

[TNT1]

Any ideas what will cause this?

 

Yip.

 

If you replaced the hanger, the entire engagement is out of tune.

[Pieterg]

I had the same problem .In my case it was the free body after fitting a new one problem solved.

[outoftowner]

See that your hanger and rear wheel is aligned,also check for wear on your cassette. Worn teeth can contribute to your problem

[TNT1]

See that your hanger and rear wheel is aligned,also check for wear on your cassette. Worn teeth can contribute to your problem

 

1600km on the cassette? No chance is that the problem. Unless you're a bike shop owner and wants to rip the guy off.

[Sniffie]

You did not say mtb or road??

1. Are you sure it is the correct hanger? If it is thicker or thinner by a mere half mm it will mess up the indexing of your gears. Is the bolt(s) that attaches it to the frame tight and also the bolt attaching it to the derailleur?

2. If you only bent your hanger it could be easily straightened with the right tool. Park tools have a derailleur hanger alignment gauge that works a breeze. If your LBS does not have one let them order it, or if like me you do your maintenance self order it for yourself. If you do serious mtbiking it is amazing how often that hanger gets bend by stones and sticks.

3. If this does not solve the problem clean out the derailleur cable's housing. Remove them from the bike and spray some alcohol or better still carburetor cleaner in and blow out with compressed air. Dust and mud that builds up in these housings can play havoc with the gear indexing. Replace the cable while you are at it. (About R15)

4. If you ride a soft tail, check for wear on the pivot points of the bike as this can be a major cause of ghost shifting.

5. If all this fails it is unfortunately the cassette. One or two muddy rides of 50 kays or more can ruin a cassette. If the problem is mainly while you are on the smaller gears of the cassette then the cassette is toast as the small rings wear quicker.

Hope this will of help.

[Starvin' Marvin]

Sometimes half a turn on the barrel adjuster will sort it out.

[MirageF1]

It is a hard tail MTB. Is the right size hanger. Just recently started doing my own maintenance. I checked everything and it seems to be in order, only thing that worries me is the cassette wobbles a little bit.

[MTBeer]

Hey guys

 

I recently bought a new low end sram chain. I also replaced my rear derailleur hanger which was bent. The cassette has about 1600 km. All the components are sram. Any ideas what will cause this?

i had the same problem. destroyed my chain so i put on a new one and it kept jumping on the cluster with even less than 1600km on. borrowed an old chain from a friend - problem sorted. old cluster + new chain = problems.

[DaLoCo]

It is a hard tail MTB. Is the right size hanger. Just recently started doing my own maintenance. I checked everything and it seems to be in order, only thing that worries me is the cassette wobbles a little bit.

My MTB chain also jumped, especially when I apply power on an uphill...LBS re-aligned everything and it has been fine. He told me that SRAM can be finicky that way. I also have a SRAM gruppo, X5

[4barlinkage]

It is a hard tail MTB. Is the right size hanger. Just recently started doing my own maintenance. I checked everything and it seems to be in order, only thing that worries me is the cassette wobbles a little bit.

 

The cassette will wobble/appear to wobble slightly on most freebodies. Shimano freebodies tend to have a larger degree of wobble and when they become badly worn, they can cause shifting problems (We talking about alot of riding here). The other wobble you may be picking up may is the profiling of the teeth on the cassette (They are cut like this to aid shifting).

 

If everything is aligned properly, then run through your indexing on a stand and check there is no skipping or excessive noise on each gear you shift to. If all is good, the next step is to ride the bike in different gears under high load (beware endagering your testes on the top-tube when doing this). Cassettes tend to wear out fastest in the middle as you spend most of your time there. Put the chain in about 5-6 gear and test - If it slips under load with pressure, then the cassette is toast... . To double check this, you can put the bike into (28t-34t) gear or (11t-13t) and try again - If it doesn't slip, then it's definitely the cassette as the new chain willl mesh properly with the less worn sprockets....

 

Hope this helps.

[JA-Q001]

Also, if it persists after checking everything, check that the B screw is adjusted correctly. the top jockey wheel should be at most 5mm away from the gear. If it is further away, then the slightest wear on the cassette will cause the chain to jump, because the entry angle of the chain is larger and the chain is in contact with fewer teeth.

[rouxtjie]

Also, if it persists after checking everything, check that the B screw is adjusted correctly. the top jockey wheel should be at most 5mm away from the gear. If it is further away, then the slightest wear on the cassette will cause the chain to jump, because the entry angle of the chain is larger and the chain is in contact with fewer teeth.

Good tip, this one also key if you change from 32-34 , but it doesn't appear to this from the info supplied