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Posted

But Johan, I have a new chain,rings and cluster. Only use oil on the chain and all parts are cleaned properly. Chain removed and cleaned after every second ride as per your article - and I still get chainsuck.

Suggestions?

Posted

A simple solution, which is effective,to stop the chain getting jammed,when it gets pulled up is to strap a large cable tie(the larger the better) strategically on the chain stay close to your small clain ring.Leave a 10mm length so if you get chain suck in granny, the chain catches the cable tie and is pulled up,however you have to stop to push the cable tie down again.

I recently had chain suck on a very muddy ride,and no matter what I did I could not use granny gear.

Posted

Check your chain length, if it's too long the tension might be a bit low and can contribute to chain suck. Most chains can run any direction, but I've heard that some newer ones are supposed to run in a certain direction as well.

 

What components are you running?

Posted (edited)

Have new SLX 9sp. Sounds feasible with the chain removal. Have never worried which way to put it back. Will try and reverse it. Thanks.

@Nickelass: Excellent idea in the interim! Will try this if the above fails.

Edited by Sepia
Posted

Jeez.

 

Nothing to with blade size. A worn blade will suck a chain, especially when the lube runs thin. Of course the derailleur hanger has something to do with it because its designed to break first.

 

So don't let your blade teeth wear, and don't let your chain wear. And keep everything lubed. The chain will suck first on the blade that you use the most, so just change it every year.

 

It's really simple, nothing to do with the Tokolosh.

Posted

Check your chain length, if it's too long the tension might be a bit low and can contribute to chain suck. Most chains can run any direction, but I've heard that some newer ones are supposed to run in a certain direction as well.

 

What components are you running?

I thought it is only Shimano 10 speed chains that are directional?

Posted

Jeez.

 

Nothing to with blade size.

It's really simple, nothing to do with the Tokolosh.

 

This Tokolosh wants to differ with you.

 

I maintain, that the smaller the chainring, the higher the propensity for suck.

 

This is due to three reasons.

 

1) The smaller the chainring, the lower the chain tension.

2) The smaller the chainring, the more the chain has to articulate, and therefore straighten again, upon release.

3) The hook at the release point is more pronounced.

 

I'm sure you'll figure the first one out for yourself.

On the second point, for example, a 42 -tooth chainring requires only eight degrees of articulation at each chainlink. A 26 tooth ring requires 14 degrees of articulation. The work required to untangle an 8-degree bend and a 14 degree bend is considerably more. Hence, a smaller chainring, given all things being equal, will suck more.

 

Thirdly, given exactly the same tooth profile, with a pronounced hook at the leading edge of the cog, the smaller chainring will have a more pronounced hook. Hence more difficult release.

 

Finally, I don't see where the derailer hanger comes into it other than at the catastrophe end of it all, but then you may as well mention spokes, seatstays, jockies and other victims of chain suck.

Posted

But Johan, I have a new chain,rings and cluster. Only use oil on the chain and all parts are cleaned properly. Chain removed and cleaned after every second ride as per your article - and I still get chainsuck.

Suggestions?

I don't have suggestions but would like to look at your bike. Something else is at play here. 9-speed chainrings with 10-speed chain perhaps? I dunno.

Posted

This Tokolosh wants to differ with you.

 

I maintain, that the smaller the chainring, the higher the propensity for suck.

 

This is due to three reasons.

 

1) The smaller the chainring, the lower the chain tension.

2) The smaller the chainring, the more the chain has to articulate, and therefore straighten again, upon release.

3) The hook at the release point is more pronounced.

 

I'm sure you'll figure the first one out for yourself.

On the second point, for example, a 42 -tooth chainring requires only eight degrees of articulation at each chainlink. A 26 tooth ring requires 14 degrees of articulation. The work required to untangle an 8-degree bend and a 14 degree bend is considerably more. Hence, a smaller chainring, given all things being equal, will suck more.

 

Thirdly, given exactly the same tooth profile, with a pronounced hook at the leading edge of the cog, the smaller chainring will have a more pronounced hook. Hence more difficult release.

 

Finally, I don't see where the derailer hanger comes into it other than at the catastrophe end of it all, but then you may as well mention spokes, seatstays, jockies and other victims of chain suck.

 

I know I am told repeatedly I know nothing, but I agree with the tokolosh.

Posted

Apologies for the hijack. Johan I am trying to send you a PM, but for some reason I am unable to do so, please can you please forward me your email address.

Once again sorry to posting off topic.

Posted

Apologies for the hijack. Johan I am trying to send you a PM, but for some reason I am unable to do so, please can you please forward me your email address.

Once again sorry to posting off topic.

You're a victim of the weight weenies. I've disabled PMs because lots of people PM me wanting to engage me in a conversation that involves what stuff weighs. I don't care.

 

johanatyellowsaddledotceeodotzeda

Posted

The tokoloshi didn't major in science. My small ring is the only one I've never had suck on.

 

I just make it a point to never suck anyone's ring.

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