SS Chain Tensioning - What's Best?

[Dirtbreath]

What's best and why?

 

-Horizontal dropout (trackends)

-Chain tensioner

-Eccentric BB

-Eccentric hub

-Half link

 

Any other solutions?

[Thug]

I've had or about to have 3 of your 4 options.

 

I had a GT Peace which had an eccentric BB. The original EBB had pinch bolts which needed torquing relatively frequently and adjusting the chain tension was royal PITA as you needed a shimano BB tool which had to be manipulated over and around the non-drive side crank arm to tension.

 

When the EBB on the Peace wore out (the pinch bolts had worn holes through the EBB casing) I bought a Carver EBB to put into the Peace which had a wedge bolt that tensions the chain. The wedge bolt expanded a nylon sleeve to eliminate metal on metal creaking normally associated with an EBB. Chain adjustment was relatively straight forward and one only needs an Allen Key.

 

After selling the Peace, I converted my Scandal to a SS and used a normal chain tensioner. After initially using a Fire-eye tensioner, I swopped over to a Gusset as the nylon bushing where the chain ran on was much wider on the Gusset than the Fire-eye. The Fire-eye's bushing had a problem running a singlespeed chain's quick release pin as it didn't fit properly. Also, a problem with this method of chain tensioning is that you generally need to carry a large Allen Key should the chain need to be re-tensioned on a ride should you be running a different chain / cog combination than normal.

 

My new SS frame runs track ends / horizontal dropouts with tug-nuts to tension the chain. My only reservation with this method is that the rear disc brake caliper "might" need to be adjusted regularly as and when the chain wears / or changing cogs/chains. I say "might" as I'm still waiting for the frame to arrive, so haven't experienced it yet.

 

Of the 2 I've experienced so far, I prefer a normal chain tensioner.

[TNT1]

What's best and why?

 

-Horizontal dropout

 

 

That or a half link.

[DR ◣◢]

The EBB on my Swift is fantastic. No creaking, 2 minute job to adjust and the two grub screws in the frame is rock solid.

 

Paragon sliders to me would be second option.

[Stretched@Birth]

I have an EBB on my Singular, the relative position of your BB moves, as you tension the chain, which means the rest of you set up may need adjustment (seat height, saddle aft/fore adjustment. It is a bit of a pain in the butt.

 

My On One has track ends (horizontal drop outs), with tugs, when tensioning the chain, the caliper does need to be adjusted from time to time.

 

The latest bike has Paragon sliders, which, in my opinion, is the best option, as the brake caliper shifts with the slider.

 

Tensioners work well particularly on frames with vertical drop outs, buy quality though!

 

@TNT, you may get lucky with a half link chain, but they do stretch (yes, stretch as the curved side plates straighten out), so you need to tension regularly, so the advantage is short lived.

[Flowta]

Have BB/ISCG mount tensioner, will post pic tomorrow

[Dirtbreath]

 

Of the 2 I've experienced so far, I prefer a normal chain tensioner.

 

I have to be honest and was hoping you wouldn't say this. I don't quite like the look of e tensioner. Something about the simplicity of a straight chainline.

 

 

 

That or a half link.

 

Are they able to take the tension up accurately? Seems like such a simple solution. You used one?

[TNT1]

I don't quite like the look of e tensioner. Something about the simplicity of a straight chainline.

 

 

 

Are they able to take the tension up accurately? Seems like such a simple solution. You used one?

Exactly why I offered the half link. I can't stand the look of this extra clutter on a SS. For me part of the appeal of a SS is the aesthetic.

 

I haven't ridden a half link, but by all accounts they do work.

 

I'd rather just get a proper frame. As opposed to hacking something else to work.

[Excite_Bike]

I have done quite a bit of research on the different methods. Many of the tensioners available dont really do a good job i.e. are noisy, eventually come loose so adjustment is required. My current bike has a custom spring tensioner which I manufactured myself, and in my opinion, is the best. Also with tensioners you never really get a clean look.

 

My next build will be using a richey or momsen frame, which has sliding horizontal dropouts which allows you to mount the brake caliper onto the part which slides. This is also the best method if you want to take your wheel off when getting a puncture.

[Thug]

Paragon Sliders are also a very good option.

[Dirtbreath]

Paragon Sliders are also a very good option.

 

I presume these are aftermarket or do they come with the frames?

[Flippa]

When I was in the market for a dedicated SS frame, Paragon sliding dropouts were a must. I see, however, that there is a pivoting dropout. Have a look at the Yeti Big Top for their SS option.

[Dirtbreath]

When I was in the market for a dedicated SS frame, Paragon sliding dropouts were a must. I see, however, that there is a pivoting dropout. Have a look at the Yeti Big Top for their SS option.

You might just have found the holy grail. I was busy checking out the Salsa system which looks similar to the Big Top.

[arendoog]

Simply chain tensioner that is the correct size works fine .Easy and quick adjustments

[Stretched@Birth]

 

 

I presume these are aftermarket or do they come with the frames?

The frame is specifically built for them. There are a few different frames with this option, Kona Unit, Ragley TD:1, Ritchey P29er amongst others.

[V12man]

 

 

...., which has sliding horizontal dropouts which allows you to mount the brake caliper onto the part which slides. This is also the best method if you want to take your wheel off when getting a puncture.

 

They are called Paragon Sliders - by far the easiest to use as the brake goes with relative to the axel when you tension the chain - to me this is better than an eccentric BB, which ultimately means you have to keep adjusting saddle height every time you tension the chain - the other good thing about the sliders is you have a fair bit of adjustment available - enough for me to be able to run from an 18t cog to a 23 on the rear without adjusting chain length on my Momsen STR - not really sure what I would do running a 23 on the rear, as 34/18 seems just fine so far.